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Aider step height

Original Post
David Coley · · UK · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 70

I'm going to do my best at explaining this. 

No matter the length of your legs you gain the same height by stepping into the next rung. 

However what is leg length dependent is where you end up. Imagine your waist is 3 inches below the piece and the rungs 6 inches apart. You are nice and snug into the piece on a 3 inch fifi. You stand up and end up 3 inches above the piece and nice and snug. 

However if you were 2 inches lounger in the leg you would be on a one inch fifi {forget the exact numbers I'm just trying to illustrate} then when you stand up you will be draw up short. The opposite would be true for a shorter person. 

The situation is slightly more complex because the fifi will ride up the spine of the carabiner. However I think for some people the height gain will lead to either being drawn up short or hanging in space rather than being sucked in. Hence needing more adjustment if using an adjustable system. Whereas for others the situation is more symmetrical. 

In his videos shot in a climbing gym Chris Mac seems to be just the right height relative to his aiders that he is perfectly symmetrical. If he was 1 inch shorter in the legs his extender would need to be 1 inch longer to make the clip from below. He would then be 2 inches less tensioned when he stood up. I have always wondered why he recommended an extender the length of a hand width. I guess he is just the right leg length for this. Whereas if I used the length he uses I can't reach the piece. Or I stand up one more step before clipping and my butt is in space. 

On steeper ground some asymmetry might be a good idea even. As hanging out below a piece piece is ok, but above the piece more tension is required. 

My questions are. Has anyone else noticed this effect? Does anyone adjust for it? For example slightly lengthening the aider. Do different manufacturers place the steps differently from the top of the aider? 

Thanks. 

Fail Falling · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,043
David Coley wrote:

My questions are. 

Has anyone else noticed this effect? 

Does anyone adjust for it? 

Do different manufacturers place the steps differently from the top of the aider? 

Yes. 

Yes. 

Probably.

David Coley · · UK · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 70

Thanks Kevin and Russ, any great ways to make said adjustment?

Fail Falling · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,043

I used to set my fifi to the second step standing then would use my adjustable daisy for top stepping (I make a sharpie mark on the webbing so I know what will be that sweet spot for the top step.)

Now I just use my Alfrifi which is essential for bigwall comfort and sad-weakling-boy style ascents like mine. Seriously, get an Alfrifi and you'll never look back. Do you need it? nope. But you don't NEED a portaledge or a haul bag or a pulley or ascenders either. 

David Coley · · UK · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 70
Russ Walling wrote:

Russ,

Imagine the step on an aider are at 12, 18, 24.... inches below the attempt point at the top of the aider. My adjusting I mean permanently shortening (or lengthening) the attachment point, to set the steps at say 9, 15, 21 ... inches.

In your example of using a short and long clip of some form, the adjustment would be set for the long clip to work as both the initial low clip and be exactly the right length to top step, without adjustment.

David Coley · · UK · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 70
Russ Walling wrote:

That is what I have been playing with.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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