Stuff you don't NEED, learn from our mistakes

PAS...let alone 2. :p. Also, multi-loop gear slings.  Pretty much just it to organize my rack when it’s at home, but I’d never climb with one (again).  The advantages a gear sling provide are negated by the multiple loops, and a cheap nylon single length works fine!

JonasMR wrote:

And that's exactly the way in which this thread is in danger of derailing.  Who's going to find (and stay on) a route, you after 2 days in J Tree or you after 100?  Who's going to have runners left over, or be confident with their clove hitch, you after your first lead or you after your 500th?  Who are you going to trust not let go of the break line when they smack the wall, your noob friend or your decades long climbing partner?

I dig the intent, we all got stuff we wish we hadn't bought.  But thinking that beginner-you was just now-you with a smaller rack is silly.  Gear that fails as gracefully as possible has its place, and it's on a beginner's harness.

Gear will never substitute for knowledge and experience....don't take a PAS, take a couple more runners. Get confident in a Clove when you are learning with your mentor, by the time you are doing your first lead it should be your bread and butter. And don't let anyone belay you if they will let go their brake hand, no matter what.

That's what this thread is about, things we thought would substitute for experience, but we were wrong about.

PAS. no need for it ever

Ted Pinson wrote:

PAS...let alone 2. :p.

PAS is usually only needed in pairs, 1 for each ascender. I find them less futzy than daisy chain. But I do regret buying aiders, hooks and almost all my ice climbing shit. 

The ascenders can at least be repurposed for climbing photography. I doubt ice tools will be all that effective in a zombie apocalypse. 

Jon Nelson wrote:

A pulley. 

I'm not sure I got mine to use for rock or for glacier. But, at any rate, I've never used it for either. 

But I have used it in non-climbing applications (so, at least it wasn't a complete waste of money).

I second the pulley as it takes up room and is rarely if ever used. However, I do like my pulley built into locking biner as its multifunction and doesn't take up the extra room.

Tricam's

Hex's

Liquid Chalk

Eric D wrote:

Approach Shoes

I didn't buy approach shoes for my first 10 years but am surprised at how common they are at crags.  Approach shoes rarely matter.  Old normal shoes are less wasteful and cheaper folks.

Ever do some of the approaches and descents in Tuolumne or at Courtright Reservoir? Or some of the sketchy "walk-offs" in Yosemite?

JonasMR wrote:

And that's exactly the way in which this thread is in danger of derailing.  Who's going to find (and stay on) a route, you after 2 days in J Tree or you after 100?  Who's going to have runners left over, or be confident with their clove hitch, you after your first lead or you after your 500th?  Who are you going to trust not let go of the break line when they smack the wall, your noob friend or your decades long climbing partner?

I dig the intent, we all got stuff we wish we hadn't bought.  But thinking that beginner-you was just now-you with a smaller rack is silly.  Gear that fails as gracefully as possible has its place, and it's on a beginner's harness.

The intent was to highlight gear we bought because we thought it was needed, but ended up being either a. unnecessary (Ex. two way radios) or b. overkill (PAS). Buying gear is fun, and I think a lot of us fall into the trap of buying stuff we don't need. However, you make a good point. I certainly don't want new climbers holding off on gear they DO need. But, a dedicated sling girthed to the tie in points is a PAS, just not branded that way. I think a lot of great points have been made about learning how to use gear properly and safely. There is always something we could spend $$ on that would be useful (upgraded pro, replacement for worn out harness, new rope, and on and on). So saving a little cash for those things instead of the frivolity is the idea. That being said, I'm currently in a gear funk (I don't need anything right now), so if anyone could please send ideas of things I MUST have, that would be great too :)

Marc801 C wrote:

Ever do some of the approaches and descents in Tuolumne or at Courtright Reservoir? Or some of the sketchy "walk-offs" in Yosemite?

Yea, I am pretty much sold on approach shoes after the last time I hiked up North Dome Gulley....

Down T-shirt.

King Tut wrote:

Yea, I am pretty much sold on approach shoes after the last time I hiked up North Dome Gulley....

Sketchiest descent I've ever done (in the dark, w/ a partner that knows the trail, but didn't warn me to bring approach shoes). 

Forever Outside wrote:

Down T-shirt.

Locker says it's something you DO need. I agree. 

I've definitely wished I wasn't wearing street sneakers, but I've never wished I had approach shoes when I had hiking shoes (with Vibram soles). If there's a situation where approach shoes would work and good hiking shoes wouldn't, I haven't found it.

So what I'd say is buy approach shoes or hiking shoes (with Vibram soles), you probably don't need both.

David Kerkeslager wrote:

I've definitely wished I wasn't wearing street sneakers, but I've never wished I had approach shoes when I had hiking shoes (with Vibram soles). If there's a situation where approach shoes would work and good hiking shoes wouldn't, I haven't found it.

When you need to carry them up a 1200' route that has a mile+ approach and a long, circuitous class 4 descent.

So what I'd say is buy approach shoes or hiking shoes (with Vibram soles), you probably don't need both.

You probably might want both. Different tools for different purposes.

Marc801 C wrote:

When you need to carry them up a 1200' route that has a mile+ approach and a long, circuitous class 4 descent.

I've definitely done 4th class stuff in my hiking shoes. Some of the more remote areas I've hiked have a strange idea of what is a reasonable place to blaze a trail. :)

I guess I can see it for situations where approach shoes will save you from having to switch between hiking shoes and climbing shoes, but I haven't run into that situation much. I guess this is area dependent (similar to how tricams are absolutely very useful around where I climb, but not so much in some other places).

AndrewArroz wrote:
I'd also say resist the temptation to mix and match many different kinds of cams. Just pick one brand and get enough (IMO doubles) of the key sizes.

I would say the exact opposite. Try a bunch of brands before you buy a rack of your favorite. Then mix and match your doubles in of other brands that you really like. 

David Kerkeslager wrote:

I've definitely wished I wasn't wearing street sneakers, but I've never wished I had approach shoes when I had hiking shoes (with Vibram soles). If there's a situation where approach shoes would work and good hiking shoes wouldn't, I haven't found it.

So what I'd say is buy approach shoes or hiking shoes (with Vibram soles), you probably don't need both.

On some rock yes, but slick granite there is a difference, and on wet granite doubly so. Yes, regular vibram soles will work... but then again, so would flip flops on most approaches, but they are often not as good as regular hiking shoes, which in turn are often not as good as approach shoes. I still wear sandals on some approaches, but I wouldnt say that since I sometimes wear sandals on approaches that approach shoes arent worth while.

Another thing, ever foot jamb in regular hiking shoes? Not only is it not super secure, it wont be long before the lack of rubber on the toes means the stitching comes apart. ( Personal experience.)

Stuff I wish I never got: a full time job, a house, laundry!!!! Adulting is the worst! But at least you can buy totems... 

Four pages and the only thing I’ve bought that I can agree with is hexes. (I’m sure they have a place if you’re seriously hard up on buying cams though)

But then there’s everything everyone else said:

Approach shoes

PAS

Anti-cross load biners lol

Cord for a quad

....

How about screamers? Thank god I bought those at a silent auction, they just sit in the bin. A Gigi.  A tag line. Camp Nano biners??? I’m running out of steam here...

A rope.

Eric D wrote:

Approach Shoes

I didn't buy approach shoes for my first 10 years but am surprised at how common they are at crags.  Approach shoes rarely matter.  Old normal shoes are less wasteful and cheaper folks.

Agree with the idea except for this: when I go out with new climbers, I climb in my Guide Tennies instead of putting the extra wear on my climbing shoes. I'm only tough enough to have climbed 5.9 in approach shoes, but I've known people to lead 5.11 with them, so any shoe you can hike in on and then climb moderates on has value, I think.