Questions About Top Roping in Joshua Tree

Mark D wrote:

- Xan & Ben - Thanks for tips on the route descriptions, and the top rope classification in general. We've done very little lead climbing even in the gym, so probably going to avoid anything that would require that. We're taking a class on setting anchors that's offered through our gym, but I'm guessing it's focused on the bolt anchors. If we grab additional gear for anchors it will likely be based on what was learned from that class. Bouldering and some hikes are going to be our back up plan if we didn't feel we were ready to TR without a guide.

I guess sorry I said clips instead of safety webbing with a carabiner, or mentioned the secondary rope for the anchor. I thought those would be useful for setting a quad anchor from this vid. You can't even TR in the gym without knowing the figure 8 knot...

- Sean - That was the plan. Learn as much as we can before we go, and cement it in with practice at home and the time spent with guide. Even after that, if we're not ready, then we're not ready. We can always set out on our own another time and another place. I'll check out that book.

- MollyCoddled & Guy - Thanks for the route recommendations. I assumed we would drop down in route difficulty anyway, but was thinking we'd be in the range of 5.9's. I didn't think the difficulty difference would be that drastic though. We normally climb the 5.11 range, but should we still drop down to 5.5? I'll try to keep us off those coveted four stars routes.

I am glad that some of the confusion was in the language you used, not in the basic skills that you have.  You should have a rope for every 4 climbers or so and a quad and biners for every rope.

As for the difference between the gym and Josh, it is complicated.  I lead in the 11s in my gym and typically lead up to the mid 10s.  I have been on some 9s that leave me puckered.  And if you don't have much experience on real rock, it is going to be a huge difference in what it is like.  In the gym, you see exactly where the next hold is, and if you climb in the gym a lot, you know exactly how to use each hold because you know what the holds are like.  Out in the real world, there are holds everywhere, but they are tiny, hidden, and you have no idea how to grab them.  You may have never been on pure friction routes as well.  Have fun, they are all over Josh.  So you will probably have the most fun on 8s and 9s.  You'll find some 7s that are challenging and some 10s you can do.  I would not bother with anything below a 5.7 unless it is an absolute classic.

Again, let your guide help you pick areas, but there are a number of moderate climbs in Echo Cove where you can walk up the back side and set up TRs with bolted anchors.  There are also a number of good climbs in the Indian Cove area on Pixie Rock.

Mark, let me know when you're in town. I'll show ya some spots. With the abundance of climbs in joshua tree, there's never a need to wait in line for classics on a busy day or try to learn complex tr anchors on the fly. Although the "classics" are cool, decorated with stars in the guide books, there are many gems out here that go unnoticed. 

My advise, buy the Vogel book, get excited for your trip, don't worry about grades (5.2 can be as challenging and as fun as 11, and the grades are often subjective opinions anyway), have fun with your guide (hopefully a local company),and hope for good weather ( hot= look for shade, cold= look for sun). 

Jt has lots to offer, call me when you're in town. I grew up here, work here, climb and guide here. You'll have a blast no matter what. Just try not to only boulder, there's enough pad-people already. 

-andy

AndrewArroz wrote:." 

Regarding the video:  50 kN anchor?  Ummmmmmmm.  No!  That's not how it works.  

Greg D wrote:

Regarding the video:  50 kN anchor?  Ummmmmmmm.  No!  That's not how it works.  

Hah, that's funny. Hadn't noticed his bad math. But the tutorial on the basic rigging is right on. 

AndrewArroz wrote:

Hah, that's funny. Hadn't noticed his bad math. But the tutorial on the basic rigging is right on. 

Yes. Overall the video was fine. I just don’t want beginners to think that their anchor strength can be determined by adding up the strength of the individual pieces. That would be false.

No one here is gonna tell you anything compared to the guide you hire. 

You don't need a thing besides your harness, shoes and chalk until he assesses your capability and points you in the right direction. He will either hand you the keys to the car or put you on restriction for a few weeks.

My guess, if he took you up Double Cross (5.7) is that you would be in for a severe wake up call every new gymbie has when they go to Josh. Its like Kryptonite for newbies starting to feel good about themselves on plastic.

I definitely agree that a guide will be money well spent. 

I know there are some easy routes <5.6 in Indian Cove that you can scramble up to bolts and set up a TR. I can’t remember but research on MP. If you’re not shy, you can ask a group if you can climb on their top rope set up. Many groups with mixed skill levels have a capable climber in their group lead a route and set a TR then everyone else takes laps. Whenever I’m with a group doing this we always welcome people to climb on our rope or pull it and lead it if they want. 

I would not build any anchors using gear like cams or nuts because that’s a skill that take time to learn. Have fun!