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Questions about Carderock

Original Post
CTB · · Cave Creek, AZ · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 185

Im going to be flying out to DC next week from AZ and looking to spend a day at Carderock.  

1) Is it worth flying with a rack to lead or is it better just to pack a static line and plan on top roping?  It seems every route description on MP says to TR.

2) Can you TR there with a 35m rope ok? Sounds like everything is supper short

3) I plan on taking the bus from the down town area up to the park. Is this description from 2012 still the best bus route?

           "Take the Bus to Carderock
If youÂ’re visiting and donÂ’t have a car, you can reach Carderock from Washington DC. Take bus #32 from the Bethesda Bus Station in Washington DC. Ask the drive to drop you off at the gate for the naval base. Cross the bridge over the parkway and hike up to the road to the parking area and trailhead. The bus ride takes about 30 minutes."

Also if anyone is looking to get out and wants to meet up the 3rd through the 7th let me know!!!

Mark P. · · Luzern, Schweiz · Joined May 2013 · Points: 536

Not worth bringing a rack - most climbs are hard to protect and there aren't any bolts.

CTB · · Cave Creek, AZ · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 185

Any other info?

Andrew Ingals · · Lake Forest · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 435

Pretty much just plan for TR. It's still a nice place to get your wall yoga on, though.  While there are a few climbs you could conceivably lead trad, I've hear lots of rumblings about the rock there not taking cams too well.  Your best bet is to stick with TR.

Random Climber · · Burke, VA · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 0

I'm local to DC, so, let me know. I'm in Cape Cod right now, driving back on Saturday the 3rd, might be able to climb on the 4th. The other days... I dunno as I'll have some work to catch up on. Traffic in DC is a nightmare. So, if you think you might be able to sneak in something in the early evening during the work week, think again, the exits for Great Falls and Carderock are actually quite close (those two destinations are in fact more or less across the river from each other), and there's a lot of congestion due to American Legion bridge. Because, OMG, it's a bridge and everyone must freak out about it, followed by, O-M-G a curve in the road ahead, let's all freak out some more and barely idle through this. If you plan on climbing during the work week, you'd want to plan your day trip to be like 10am to 3pm and don't be there for too much longer unless you like bumper-to-bumper for miles and hours on end. 

These routes are short, at least the ones I have been on. One thing about Carderock is that the anchors are a little far back compared to Great Falls. Seems to be a leeward vs windward type thing. But, don't be surprised if the anchor is 20' back at Carderock and at Great Falls it could be like three feet. There is also a chimney at Carderock.

As for your rope, for sure, 35M will do most at Carderock for TR, I assume you'll have webbing or the like for the master point.

As for getting there, I'd look into an Uber/Lyft. That bus thing sounds a little sketchy to me, maybe someone recent has tried that method? I don't recall exactly, but, it might be a bit of a hike from the Carderock Naval Facility to the routes. Like, hike, rest up a bit, and then climb, rest up a bit, and then hike back to... which bus stop?

CTB · · Cave Creek, AZ · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 185

Ya I think I will just uber in that case. Thanks for all the info!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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