Using Prusik with ATC for belayer


Original Post
Nicha Lee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 0

I'm quite new to climbing. I have been using ATC-XP for a belaying device when I go outdoor. I always imagine a case when a rock falls and makes the belayer goes unconscious and drops the climber (ref: rockandice.com/climbing-acc...). Obviously, using an assisted braking device like Grigri might help prevent this scenario. However, I don't want to use Grigri because 1) I have been reading about that it can make the belayer becomes lazy in keeping the break hand on 2) heard a few events that went wrong with misusing Grigri including Ashima's fall and 3) need to buy and learn a new skills that might confuse me when i switch the device.

Anyway, I'm thinking that using a prusik attach to the leg loop of the belayer(like one does during a rappel) might help prevent dropping the climber when unfortunate events happen. Any suggestion, thoughts?

edanner · · Fort Collins, Colorado · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 0

There are many other belay devices. It is not just the atc and the grigri. Do some research online or ask people where you do you climbing what there thoughts are.

I love the grigri I think it is awesome. I would also stand my ground and say I am far from a lazy belayer.

As far as the idea you have with the prusik there is a reason no body else is doing it.

t.farrell · · New York, NY · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 0

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/belay-backup/112275951#a_112276683

I asked the same thing a while ago

Andrewww · · Concord, NH · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 110

Edelrid MegaJul is an assisted locking device that functions just like an ATC.

Old lady H · · Boise, Idaho · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 120
N L wrote:I'm quite new to climbing. I have been using ATC-XP for a belaying device when I go outdoor. I always imagine a case when a rock falls and makes the belayer goes unconscious and drops the climber (ref: rockandice.com/climbing-acc...). Obviously, using an assisted braking device like Grigri might help prevent this scenario. However, I don't want to use Grigri because 1) I have been reading about that it can make the belayer becomes lazy in keeping the break hand on 2) heard a few events that went wrong with misusing Grigri including Ashima's fall and 3) need to buy and learn a new skills that might confuse me when i switch the device. Anyway, I'm thinking that using a prusik attach to the leg loop of the belayer(like one does during a rappel) might help prevent dropping the climber when unfortunate events happen. Any suggestion, thoughts?
Just think it through. If the prussik is short enough to not get sucked into the belay device, you won't ever be able to lift the rope far enough to do anything but brake. Your hand would always have to be on the friction hitch, or, the friction hitch would have to be way down your leg tied so loose as to be useless...On and on. The other thread has tons of discussion, but good on you for thinking! Being willing to ponder, and brave enough to ask, can net you tons of pro and con info on here.

Stay curious! Best, OLH
Chris Fedorczak · · Portland, OR · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 0

Using a prussik, autoblock or klemheist would make it very difficult if not impossible to page out slack smoothly when lead belaying.

A grigri is perfectly safe and effective when used properly. It's my preferred belay device, and I switched from an ATC. Now I can use both efficiently, effectively, and safely depending on the scenario.

1) I never remove my brake hand

2) Ashima's fall was most likely caused by her father using the "old" technique of reaching under the device and clamping down on the cam with all for fingers. The new technique uses the brakehand's index finger and thumb to keep the cam open when paging out slack quickly. Much safer. See here: climbing.com/skills/grigri-...

3) I like being able to use both depending on the situation.

r m · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 0

You could try using a prussik like that. It'll be terrible, but I think you'll find your answer within 30 seconds.

An unconscious belayer is the rare case, your belaying accidents will far far far more likely be due to inattention, sloppiness or shit technique.

Keep your atc XP, it's a solid device, and focus on those three areas instead of trying to devise new belay methods.

John Wilder · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,500

Belay devices must be used competently to be used well and reduce the risk of an incident- the grigri is no exception. If you choose to get the device, learn how to use it properly and take the time to practice, you will be a competent, safe belayer who will be trusted by your partners.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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