Using Prusik with ATC for belayer
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I'm quite new to climbing. I have been using ATC-XP for a belaying device when I go outdoor. I always imagine a case when a rock falls and makes the belayer goes unconscious and drops the climber (ref: rockandice.com/climbing-acc…). Obviously, using an assisted braking device like Grigri might help prevent this scenario. However, I don't want to use Grigri because 1) I have been reading about that it can make the belayer becomes lazy in keeping the break hand on 2) heard a few events that went wrong with misusing Grigri including Ashima's fall and 3) need to buy and learn a new skills that might confuse me when i switch the device. |
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There are many other belay devices. It is not just the atc and the grigri. Do some research online or ask people where you do you climbing what there thoughts are. |
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Edelrid MegaJul is an assisted locking device that functions just like an ATC. |
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N L wrote:I'm quite new to climbing. I have been using ATC-XP for a belaying device when I go outdoor. I always imagine a case when a rock falls and makes the belayer goes unconscious and drops the climber (ref: rockandice.com/climbing-acc…). Obviously, using an assisted braking device like Grigri might help prevent this scenario. However, I don't want to use Grigri because 1) I have been reading about that it can make the belayer becomes lazy in keeping the break hand on 2) heard a few events that went wrong with misusing Grigri including Ashima's fall and 3) need to buy and learn a new skills that might confuse me when i switch the device. Anyway, I'm thinking that using a prusik attach to the leg loop of the belayer(like one does during a rappel) might help prevent dropping the climber when unfortunate events happen. Any suggestion, thoughts?Just think it through. If the prussik is short enough to not get sucked into the belay device, you won't ever be able to lift the rope far enough to do anything but brake. Your hand would always have to be on the friction hitch, or, the friction hitch would have to be way down your leg tied so loose as to be useless...On and on. The other thread has tons of discussion, but good on you for thinking! Being willing to ponder, and brave enough to ask, can net you tons of pro and con info on here. Stay curious! Best, OLH |
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Using a prussik, autoblock or klemheist would make it very difficult if not impossible to page out slack smoothly when lead belaying. |
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You could try using a prussik like that. It'll be terrible, but I think you'll find your answer within 30 seconds. |