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Quickdraws at New River Gorge?

Original Post
Nick Lansing · · Alexandria · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0

Heading up to the Endless Wall for Thanksgiving, and doing some shopping for quickdraws to use on the sport routes. Would people who have climbed at NRG recommend 12 or 18 inch draws? Also, anyone have a good deal on quickdraws?

Other than the obvious (ATC, harnesses, dynamic rope), any piece of gear that is necessary to sport climb at the gorge?

boo · · Estes Park · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 0

12 draws

and a raincoat!

Jake Jones · · Richmond, VA · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 1,475

Any dozen 12cm quickdraws will work. Take a stick clip.

Sam Stephens · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 1,020

Bring a good thermos full of humility if you're going to Endless and leave your ego at the car.

Joe Virtanen · · Asheville, NC · Joined May 2010 · Points: 233

What sort of routes are you looking for, Nick? I only ask in case you are a relative beginner, in which case Endless might not be your best option. Other crags like Sandstonia and Whippoorwill have a lot more beginner-friendly routes.

I highly recommend stopping by a home improvement store/Wal-Mart for a painter's pole (ones that extend to 12-16ft+ are best) and then hitting up Waterstone and grabbing a Yates Superclip when you get to Fayetteville. You can google how to use it or ask the folks at Waterstone. Having a stick clip will save you a lot of grief.

Feel free to PM me for more detailed beta.

Nick Lansing · · Alexandria · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0

Looking for something that goes pretty high and is in the 5.9/5.10a or 5.10b range. I'd love some beta on a couple of routes like this that I could be confident on as someone who has sport climbed in the gym for a while but only toproped outside.

Alex Zucca · · University Heights · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 280

Sandstonia is great. Geisha Girl and Mrs. Field's Follies are two 100+ foot amazing 5.8's (though they may feel a little harder than that). And Kinesthetica is a very doable 10c.

Cheesegrater Osborne · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 8

#StayHumbleFAM Endless is not a gentle lover.

You can always do Flight of the Gumbies. Super classic 5.9, 80 feet or so. Great climb. Some other 10's around that area of Kaymoor too.

BrianWS · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 790

Endless is NOT a good crag if transitioning from the gym. There are few sport routes in the 5.9-5.10 range, they are very spread out from one another, and tend to be very technical.

Sandstonia is a great bet, as others have mentioned. High concentration of well featured routes at moderate grades. Whippoorwill is also an excellent option this time of year, as is Summersville. You might also consider toproping at bridge buttress or junkyard to get a feel for the area before jumping on lead.

Bring helmets if going to sandstonia. Lots of loose rock, large groups, and beginners with butterfingers. 12cm draws should be fine, but it's nice to have some longer guys to prevent drag or clean anchors. A stick clip is also very handy if you value your ankles. You can get away with found sticks and climbing tape if you don't want to drop the cash for a pole and a 30$ piece of bent wire (superclip, which I absolutely love)

Gummy · · Akron, OH · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 850

I second the idea of going to an area other than Endless, most routes there are graded a bit harder than the rest of the gorge which tends to be a bit more stout than other routes in the US. I will not be at the New unfortunately that weekend or would offer to take you out! Best of luck enjoy the great NRG!


Cory Furrow · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 25

I second everyone who suggest Sandstonia, specifically the Tattoo Wall! If you're at the NRG, do not leave there until you've climbed Mrs Fields Follies (The first bolt is extremely high and I've seen several stick clips (i.e., Beta stick) not reach it). Check out The Decameron (5.10b), another classic in Sandstonia. Climb Mrs fields and Geisha girl to get a feel for that ratings before jumping on The Decameron which has a really tough traverse.

Whippoorwill is an awesome area as long as the water level is low enough. The climbs are easy but a ton of fun!

Check out Summersville lake. Specifically, Orange Oswald Wall and the Narcissists cave. There are a few 5.8 to the right of Narcissists cave.

As a heads up, some people would consider the routes at the NRG a little run out.

Have fun! And PM me if you want to know more about the area.

BTW, the higher routes require 12 draws (including anchor). It probably won't hurt to have a few extras in case you drop one when climbing.

BrianWS · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 790

Some route recommendations:

Geisha Girl and anything nearby at sandstonia: Tall and very friendly to newcomers at the New

Flight of the Gumby at Kaymoore: Tall and engaging arête climbing

Wendy's Jugs, Bongo, and other moderates at Whipporwill: not very tall, but wildly featured stone - very similar to gym holds.

Long Wall, moderates near Narcissus cave, and Orange Oswald (Sunmersville): Long wall and Orange Oswald would be good bets once you get used to leading outdoors, but there are some fantastic 5.singledigit climbs near the Narcissus cave.not as tall as Sandstonia, but way better stone.

Aaaand if you feel confident by the end of your trip, Fool Effect at Endless is an amazing long route, definitely one of the tallest sport routes in the gorge. It's slabby and technical though, with some impressive fall potential - not at all recommended until you get comfortable leading outdoors.

Nick Lansing · · Alexandria · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0

I appreciate all of the help! Definitely gonna check out Sandstonia, and hopefully I can send as many of the routes you guys recommended as possible

Glass Tupperware · · Atlanta · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 45

Just a heads up, Fool Effect at endless takes 13 quickdraws. And for what it's worth, I like having extra 18cm quickdraws. For trips to the New, I normally bring a dozen 12cm and four 18cm draws.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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