Has anyone been up or seen Dragon's tooth or tail recently?
I am looking to do one or the other on Saturday, and am curious if anyone has an opinion on which one to do, or if the tops are corniced at all / what conditions to expect?
My partner and I both have experience climbing in the PNW on glaciers / steep snow, rock climbing, and are proficient in snow and rock anchors and protection... but haven't ever done anything classified as mixed. We also don't have ice screws, only pickets, cams and nuts to work with.
Any tips or input? Is this a bad idea / are we too late in the season?
Right side appeared to still have a big cornice, so we went left. There were a few snow bridges pulling away from 1/3 to 2/3 of the way up the route. Existing boot pack went right up and over, but we traversed wide around them once we saw them.
Encountered some rock hard snow up near the top. We opted for a mixed exit on the right side of the left branch. I'd guess M2 based on comparison with Dreamweaver a few weeks ago. It looked like you could stay left on the left branch and take snow all the way or almost all the way to the top.
No rope/pro. Two axes/tools helpful for the hard snow up top, but otherwise one would've sufficed.