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Crack heads

Original Post
Brady3 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 15

I'm looking to improve my crack climbing skills and none of my current partners want to climb cracks. I have a rack, rope, and car. I can only climb on the weekends and live in SE Denver. I'm pretty terrible in cracks so I would mostly be wanting to top-rope/follow initially until I get comfortable trusting my jams. Also I don't know where any good cracks are. I'm not opposed to off-width, but I'm not looking for off-widths right now.

dylan grabowski · · Denver · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 95

Just throwing my name in the ring (and bookmarking this post)... Might be moving back to CO in 3 or 4 months and would love to get after it with you. I've been vehemently working on my crack game since May of '15 and am beginning to get comfortable with the crack.

Good luck!

Billy Bankman · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 5

You had me at crack.

South Platte (Turkey Rock, Turkey Perch) has some magnificent crack lines. I've made the drive in with my 2005 ford focus but higher ground clearance and/or all-wheel-drive would be better. I haven't been there since October, so I have no idea what the road is like right meow.

The Crack Climber's Technique Manual by Kent Pease is an excellent crack instruction manual.

I've got a full rack, rope, and car as well. I've lead trad approximately 15+ times and am looking to further improve. The more crack partners I have, the better.

Jacqueline Niles · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 325

Hey Billy,

The desert is more my bag, but as a side-note, i did take the Ford Escape up to The Perch a couple of weekends ago. Road's not bad, and the snow is beginning to melt.

Have fun getting after it.

Nicholas Aretz · · Lakewood, Colorado · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 55

I second the desert!! It is not always possible to get to Utah so south plate I hear is good. Eldo has some good cracks but they are short and rare. Table mountain has some fun ones or there is lumpy ridge.

I have been leading trad for a while now and I am always up for meeting people. I would love to get in on a group to climb at the creek. I have doubles from .5 - 3 and singles for the others. I can't wait to place my #6!!!

If anyone is heading to the creek hit me up!!!!!! Or local too.

Billy Bankman · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 5

Jacqueline,

Thanks for the update on the roads to Turkey Perch. Hopefully I'll be going to Indian Creek in a couple weeks (for the first time) and I can't freakin' wait.

Nicholas,

I've got doubles of 0.3 - 2 and singles of 3 thru 5. I'll will keep you in mind next time I go to Turkey (probably next weekend). Maybe Indian Creek 2nd weekend in April...

Cheers y'all,
Billy

Brady3 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 15

I got Kent's book about a week ago, but reading it isn't much help without a crack to try stuff in. I've only been in CO about 3 years and haven't been to the SPlatte and haven't climbed at Lumpy, it's hard for me to justify the drive when I don't have a partner. I've tried a few cracks at North Table, but most are really face climbs, at least that I have done.

I started a new job so have little vacation time this year and thus I won't be able to head to Utah until next year at the earliest, but again I don't want to go without a partner.

Mike C · · Co · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 1,076

Check out the cracks at the quarry and east quarry. Short but way cracky with options for your hard sporto friends:) oh, its right here in golden! Its a good place to learn how to jam :)THE SHORT TOUR is a good intro sandbagged crack.

Rusty Shackleford · · Boulder County aka The Cent… · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 0

If you're ever interested in getting out to vedauwoo, I could always show you around. There's a lot of quality lines of all grades. I'm available weekends for the next few months so let me know.

Brady3 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 15

Is it pretty easy to get to the anchors from the top of Quarry and East Quarry? It looks like most of the climbs are above what I'm comfortable with leading at the moment, especially if they are crack climbs. The rest of North Table is easy to get to, but I didn't see anything talking about it on either page on here or in the guidebook.

Sean McAuley · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 10

Count me in as interested as well, moved to Lakewood last summer and after 6 years of east coast trad climbing (aka anti-crack) I'm ready to start getting some splitter skills. Definitely down for local (East Quarry/S. Platte/Lumpy/etc) as well as doing some desert traveling.

Nicholas Aretz · · Lakewood, Colorado · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 55

I just climbed Hand Crack and Bush Loves Detroit last weekend. Both are well worth doing in my opinion if you are a Table Mountain.

I would recommend taping though. My hands are cut up!

Kent Pease · · Littleton, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,066

You may want to go here:
mountainproject.com/v/sedal….
Edit/Addition: Contact me and I'll happily send you a free guide.

Not great, but worth a visit or two. It’s probably a bit chilly and wet this weekend.

Sorry - No help for a partner at the moment.

Brady3 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 15

Thanks for the suggestion Kent, it looks like it would be great for days I can't get a partner. Any ideas when the download from Fixed Pin will be available? I didn't see it on their site yet.

Also your crack climbing technique book is great, there were a few typos though. :P

Paul Hutton · · Nephi, UT · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 740

I'm passing through Colorado on my way to the Red Rock Rendezvous in Nevada. I'm wanting to develop my crack technique, as well.I'll arrive in Colorado this evening.

aclayden · · Glenwood Springs, CO · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 90
mike c wrote:Check out the cracks at the quarry and east quarry. Short but way cracky with options for your hard sporto friends:) oh, its right here in golden! Its a good place to learn how to jam :)THE SHORT TOUR is a good intro sandbagged crack.

Anyone interested in getting up to the quarry after work tomorrow (3/22)?

Paul Hutton · · Nephi, UT · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 740

I'm looking to climb tomorrow. I'm all set for sport n' trad. I'm currently in Boulder.

Deke Doty · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 10

Thanks to all for Turkey road update:)

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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