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Does anyone have experience using ClimbTech removable 1/2" anchors?

Original Post
Chris Hatzai · · Bend, OR · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 909

Was thinking of beefing up the developing kit by adding a couple of these babies..
Does anyone have any first hand experience using these anchor set ups? At $70 a pop kinda pricey to chance it..

Thanks in advance for the info!

Jon H · · PC, UT · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 118

Long discussion of them here already: mountainproject.com/v/remov…

Essentially - not really worth it because the smallest size they come in is 1/2" - drilling extra holes that large isn't a time saver no matter how you cut it.

20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346

Another option is to use the Fixe Triplex bolt. It's easy to remove (especially in an 1/2" hole instead of the required 12mm hole) and about 1/10th the price. I dont recommend the Triplex for anything permanent though, only for work positioning or temporary usage.

Micah Klesick · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 3,971

I personally really like the removable bolts. They allow you to bolt on lead pretty easily, and are great for temporary directional bolts when bolting new lines on rap. I think one or two in the kit is a great asset.

Mike Bond · · Kentucky · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 3,203
20 kN wrote:Another option is to use the Fixe Triplex bolt. It's easy to remove (especially in an 1/2" hole instead of the required 12mm hole) and about 1/10th the price. I dont recommend the Triplex for anything permanent though, only for work positioning or temporary usage.
+1 triplex for this use

Great for the same temp use as the RB's. Get the short ones. Cheaper, stronger and easy to remove! I agree the design is crap for permanent use.
Chris Hatzai · · Bend, OR · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 909

Sweet ill definitely look into the triplex.. and thanks for the input. Id primarily use these for setting directionals which they sound great for...

I guess a few big questions i didnt ask is do you feel secure with two of these set up as an a semi-temporary anchor?
Load and longevity wise can the anchor system support top rope falls and any possible movement from side to side?
And if having to traverse back and forth on these babies, do they walk at all?

I just wanna make sure these bolts can hold up to the rope trickery/maneuvering involved with developing.. Swinging from 1/2" bolts i just tightened gives me this amazing sense of security.. Do these do the same.?

Greg Barnes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 2,202

Definitely use 12mm drill bits for Triplex, I've pulled ones improperly set in 1/2" holes with little effort in Yosemite and Joshua Tree. Use the right size drill bit! You might get away with 1/2" holes in the right kind of rock (and maybe with a worn 1/2" drill bit), but you are playing with fire.

They are awesome for this use and for drilling stuff like multipitch limestone ground-up. When used with a 12mm hole hanger, to remove all you do is loosen the nut and yank with a quickdraw (then you can place a glue-in or something permanent). I've used them for ground anchors for rope soloing new routes, super easy to use and remove, and re-usable (although you'll want to watch out, you can definitely weaken the bolt and especially the nut by re-using too much and/or over torquing).

Chris Hatzai · · Bend, OR · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 909

So this is more for specialized jobs? Scouting/aiding?
Not so much the work horses i can beat the crap out of?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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