Using multiple slings for an anchor


Original Post
Mike Gilbert · · boulder, co · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 23

This weekend I got to the top of a pitch and realized I forgot to grab my cordelette from my partner. I used two 30cm slings to equalize the anchor as best I could but obviously it wasn't ideal. I just ran one sling through the three pieces and equalized it as best I could then girth hitched the second sling on. This can't be a super rare situation so I am curious how other people extend slings like this for an anchor. Thanks

teece303 · · Highlands Ranch, CO · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 598

I use slings all the time this way. I bet you'd be surprised at how imperfect the equalization is even with a cord.

I usually try to put a sliding x on two bomber pieces (if I have enough slings, I'll use two there for redundancy). Then I use another sling knotted or whatnot, to get a third piece mostly equalized with the first two.

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425
teece303 wrote:I use slings all the time this way. I bet you'd be surprised at how imperfect the equalization is even with a cord. I usually try to put a sliding x on two bomber pieces (if I have enough slings, I'll use two there for redundancy). Then I use another sling knotted or whatnot, to get a third piece mostly equalized with the first two.
Yeah totally. One double length and the third on regular length runner shortened to whatever appropriate length. Might be tricky with the proper lengths, and finding out how to equalize everything.

You can make an anchor out of anything.
bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065
Robots and Dinosaurs wrote:This weekend I got to the top of a pitch and realized I forgot to grab my cordelette from my partner. I used two 30cm slings to equalize the anchor as best I could but obviously it wasn't ideal. I just ran one sling through the three pieces and equalized it as best I could then girth hitched the second sling on. This can't be a super rare situation so I am curious how other people extend slings like this for an anchor. Thanks
one of the reason for learning how to build an anchor with the rope is the hopefully rare time you end up at the belay with little to no gear left

heres a few ways you can build a simple 3 piece anchor ...

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/multi-pitch-anchor-building-using-the-rope/109397635__2#a_109402400

;)
wing thing · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 80

Did you girth hitch your 2nd sling to the other sling? If so,that's not recommended because it will melt or break under a sudden load. blackdiamondequipment.com/e… . Instead, you should connect the two slings with a carabiner.

Kevin Mokracek · · Burbank · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 200

I second what Bearbreeder says, learn to set up an anchor just using the rope. I rarely carry a cordelette on multi pitch except for big wall climbing and even then I dont always use it. It pays to have a lot of tricks in your bag to draw from. Go out to the crag and practice setting up anchors with minimal equipment. You dont need a locker for every piece of gear for your anchor. I know you didnt mention lockers but I see way too many lockers on anchor set ups on multi pitch climbs. Nothing wrong with a regular biner, especially under a constant load.

Ryan Watts · · Bishop, CA · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 25

Wat

Assuming three piece anchor: sliding X on two pieces, clove rope to that, then clove to the other piece.

Or with no slings, just clove, clove, clove (or fig 8, clove, clove if you want).

When swinging leads this is what I do 90% of the time (or some variation of this). It's pretty standard AFAIK.

Mike Gilbert · · boulder, co · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 23

Thanks all for the comments. I think it is a good point that I should have just built my anchor with the rope instead of bothering with the slings. Also that article is really interesting from BD thanks!

Jim Titt · · Germany · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 490

Just some slings, the odd draw and the rope, I´ve never used a cordalette.

Ed Wright · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2006 · Points: 285

What Jim said, period.

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

Like Ed and Jim said !

You can build anchor with the rope 99.9 % of the time..besides , I don't carry many slings

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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