Anyone have experience with these bolt hangers???

Chris Vinson wrote:I'm listening to the feedback and improvements are being made.

Stoked to hear this! Chris, what is your take on painting ClimbTech's ss hangers? I have been painting them for a while but will probably stop after Jim's advice. Do I need to worry about the ones I have already painted? They have all been placed in a fairly rainy environment on well exposed rock. Also, how do I get my greasy fingers on some legacy bolts?

mattm wrote: I believe the Texas Ti bolt failure was attributed to improper placement. It was a "P" bolt from Ushuba (I think) and the placement resulted in repeated shaft flexing and eventual failure (shaft snapped). It didn't have anything to do with corrosion.

I didn't suggest it was related to corrosion. I suggested that it failed, which was the question that was asked in the first place.

EDIT: Reading through my original post, I see the confusion. The bolt from Texas failed AND there are many failures that are related to corrosion. I was simply listing a specific failure and a general failure mode that is well known. This answered the original question, not a question about corrosion.

I agree that the failure in Texas was likely placement related, but it is unconfirmed.

Here we go. Jim is 100% right. In some respects, a takeaway is "the brighter the better" when it comes to resistance to corrosion. But we all know that there are drawbacks with hangers looking like little disco balls from a mile away at that pretty cliff when a family gets out of the car at Lake Heebeegeeebe State Park.

Greg Barnes wrote:In the western US there are a number of places where shiny bolts will produce bans on rock climbing, so sometimes paint is necessary.

What Greg said...

I'll admit, I've used Rustoleum primer on hangers in limestone areas myself. To be honest, there is no perfect anchor setup that works across the board, its a crag to crag thing. On top of that, there are lots of considerations on a route by route basis. Cost and material selection likely being atop the list, but access issues tend to trump all of that. Painted hangers are better than no climbing! If you have to paint them in some areas to protect access, do it! If you have to use glue ins because that the local ethic, get out the epoxy and do it right, they are much less visible. The most important takeaway i think, is that you're using stainless (or titanium, fine i said it), for obvious reasons.

So yea, prime and paint if access is an issue, just be aware of the pros and cons as per your location. If its wet, think about it, use your better judgement. Use stainless, think about glue ins, holler if you're interested in wavebolts or hangers, I'm happy to help.

Morgan Patterson wrote: Of course they're crap and will rot out in like 2-3 yrs cause they were made in CHiNa... Thats not to mention that they aren't even supposed to be cross loaded and thats all we do to those puppies! Hey I got a few still in the trunk kicking around if you wanna slam some in randomly along some famous trad climb. And Brian when I placed a few (and removed a few) they only cost $1.50 (plus glue $13). 90% cheaper then stainless @ retail which is $14, $6.50 price was special sale on only a single bolt/hanger combo. In all honesty though, Spraug would probably be the best to talk to about those since they were kinda pioneered up at Rumney. I know they don't use them anymore if thats any consolation.

I just noticed this post. The 1/2"X6" heavy galvanized eyebolts we used to use at Rumney we mostly from Fastenal or McMaster-Carr like these mcmaster.com/#3016t45/=r0wmeg and cost more like $3.75 plus the glue each at the time (now a lot more). We countersunk them so the back of the eye was flush with the rock surface. At the time we started using them, stainless eyebolts were less available and very expensive. The big galvanized glue-ins were a big step up from the older types of bolts previously used and held up to heavy use without loosening up like the stainless 3/8 Rawls my group first used there. We have gone over to stainless glue-ins for the most part now, but I wouldn't be concerned about the galvanized ones at all. They are massive and, except for a couple that were placed in areas of almost constant running water (anchors of Venus Envy), after 20 years of heavy use they look exactly as they did when they went in. I have personally beaten on one with a full sized sledge and they are amazingly tough.

The main reason we moved to the stainless glue-ins was not that we were really worried about the galvanized, but since the replacement bolting is being done more under the aegis of the RCA (thanks to your donations) we particularly wanted bolts that are officially certified as climbing anchors. Stainless glue-ins are now reasonably priced enough that there is no compelling reason not to use them in porous rock as long as you are certain of their placements.

I have never noticed any streaking from the galvanized bolts in schist.

If I came across one of those galvanized bolts and I didn't personally know the person who placed it, I would be far more concerned with the care the person used placing it (cleaning the hole well, making sure there are no air pockets, quality properly mixed fresh glue etc then the bolt itself

Morgan Patterson wrote: Of course they're crap and will rot out in like 2-3 yrs cause they were made in CHiNa... Thats not to mention that they aren't even supposed to be cross loaded and thats all we do to those puppies! Hey I got a few still in the trunk kicking around if you wanna slam some in randomly along some famous trad climb. And Brian when I placed a few (and removed a few) they only cost $1.50 (plus glue $13). 90% cheaper then stainless @ retail which is $14, $6.50 price was special sale on only a single bolt/hanger combo. In all honesty though, Spraug would probably be the best to talk to about those since they were kinda pioneered up at Rumney. I know they don't use them anymore if thats any consolation.

Also, the bolts in that link have a working load limit of 2200 lb. WLL rating is usually about one fifth of the minimum breaking strength, so you are talking about a probable 11 thousand pound min breaking strength. Being countersunk acts like a shoulder so the direction of pull aspect is mitigated quite a bit I suspect.

I don’t know if this is the correct place for this post. Please redirect me if it’s not. March 2014 issue of Climbing Magazine has an article called “Build to Last”. In it, they discuss (briefly) this subject. But I don’t recall anything about painting. The article also mentioned that developers in Cayman Brac have worked successfully to overcome an anchor corrosion. It does not expand on it or mention anything else. Instead, it has a link to read more (climbing.com/bracwin) which incidentally is not working for me and is the essence of my question. Where can I find the article? Maybe I need to pay some fee. Any help will be appreciated.

Edited:Well, the question is not about just finding the Article, but to point in some direction about actual super corrosion resistant bolting routes and the approach the developers took.

Edited 2: I found a good starting point here. The post is called:
Permanent Anchors at Seaside Crag
mountainproject.com/v/perma…

Locker wrote:"Locker wrote: Also used hundreds of the ClimbTech style and they're fine as well. They are shiny though like mentioned (Primer paint helps). Working on it Locker! I'm listening to the feedback and improvements are being made" Fantastic! Looking forward to seeing what's in store...

Ok so theyre are in stock. These hangers are matte but we wanted them to be plenty resistant so we pascivated them. Here they are in between to our old SS hanger on the right and a Petzl hanger on the left for reference. Hope you guys like them! I know I do.