Anchor Setup Efficiency

mattm wrote:
> ... the most interesting thing I saw in there was the prevalent use
> of a "Belay Sling". This is not something like a PAS or Anchor chain
> but a large loop with a small, belay loop like smaller loop ...
> Edelrid video ...

Thanks for introducing that new approach.
At the end of the Edelrid video they do show how to use their belay sling as a PAS "leash" or "Anchor chain". Also as a leg prusik for ascending the rope.

I had been thinking in the opposite direction of how to use my Sterling Chain Reactor leash / anchor chain (which I already have used as a leg prusik for ascending) -- to help construct a quicker anchor (hybrid w rope) for when I lead multiple pitches in series.

Now this "adjustable belay station sling" looks like it might be a bit more versatile and adjustable.

Ken

Ryan N wrote: As far as setting up, I usually place the first piece, and if its bomber, then I clove my rope to it then I'm off belay. . . If its not bomber, then make the 3 point equalized anchor then clove to master then off belay. My 2cents...

My 2cents are to build your anchors out of bomber pieces.

I cannot imagine a scenario where I see a couple great placements for an anchor, but place a shitty one first, thus necesitating the use of your advice.

Check out this video. It goes through setting up a belay for multipitch and the climber uses a cordelette to do it. one of the best vids i've seen showing this topic. i recommend practicing this setup a few feet off the ground and see how it feels. also great demo of proper rope management

Swapping Leads on Multi-Pitch Trad Routes from Seattle Mountaineers on Vimeo.

here's another thread about this topic/video;

mountainproject.com/v/helpf…

thanks, david

ACR aka Alpine Cock Ring

You can purchase 30' of 7mm and 2 rap rings for about the same price as 1 of those pre-sewn get-ups and have 2 ACR's for multi-pitch belays.
This set up is also very inexpensive if you must leave it behind for a rappel anchor.