Interview with Arno Ilgner

I just wrote this blog about what I learned from an interview and clinic with Arno Ilgner, author of The Rock Warriors Way.I hope you find it useful and interesting.
masterrockclimber.com/menta…

Also, here is a excerpt from our interview.
masterrockclimber.com/inter…

You can find other info on training for rock climbing at
masterrockclimber.com

"Arno talked a lot about how our attention tends to follow where we look, so where we look while climbing and during a fall is critical. This simple concept is powerful in practice. During one of the movement drills I noticed that nearly all the climbers in the clinic, and many that were just climbing at the gym, often would keep their eyes on a foothold while they moved their first foot up to a new position, but when they moved their second foot to a hold, they often would look away before establishing their foot on the hold. I asked Arno about this, and he told me that this is because most of us climb using the power of one leg rather than two most of the time. I could actually see that in the movement. Next time you are climbing watch what others do with their second foot. It was really eye opening for me, no pun intended. By keeping our eyes on that second foot placement, we can actually improve the engagement of our legs."

Unfortunately this is very true. How many people have climbing shoes where one foot has the front toe edge more worn out than others? For once I'd like to see an evenly worn pair of climbing shoes.

Todd Cook wrote:For once I'd like to see an evenly worn pair of climbing shoes.

I think this has more to do with how shoes wear/fail. For me it's never the same foot that wears out, and I can always find an opposite foot from another pair of shoes and climb for awhile in a mismatched pair. I have seen plenty of other climbers do likewise. YMMV.

Despite the above post, the drill sounds like a good idea.

Todd Cook wrote:"Arno talked a lot about how our attention tends to follow where we look, so where we look while climbing and during a fall is critical. This simple concept is powerful in practice. During one of the movement drills I noticed that nearly all the climbers in the clinic, and many that were just climbing at the gym, often would keep their eyes on a foothold while they moved their first foot up to a new position, but when they moved their second foot to a hold, they often would look away before establishing their foot on the hold. I asked Arno about this, and he told me that this is because most of us climb using the power of one leg rather than two most of the time. I could actually see that in the movement. Next time you are climbing watch what others do with their second foot. It was really eye opening for me, no pun intended. By keeping our eyes on that second foot placement, we can actually improve the engagement of our legs." Unfortunately this is very true. How many people have climbing shoes where one foot has the front toe edge more worn out than others? For once I'd like to see an evenly worn pair of climbing shoes.

I don't buy it. I think many climbers fail to maintain their gaze on either foot, first or second. Many look away from their hands before latching the desired hold as well.