Stacking the Rope for Multipitch

Pancake/cowpie flip or if rope is coiled over a connection to the anchor re-stack. The new leader re-racks, the new belayer re-stacks. This happens as soon as the second is off belay and usually takes the same amount of time.

How could clove hitching, then clipping into a MP with a separate sling, untieing, retieing, then unclipping possibly be seen as being more efficient?

cdec wrote:How could clove hitching, then clipping into a MP with a separate sling, untieing, retieing, then unclipping possibly be seen as being more efficient?

The only time it makes sense to me to untie from the rope is swapping leads climbing on double ropes with a party of 3.

Leader gives one rope to the person who says seconding, that person gives end to new leader.

cdec wrote: How could clove hitching, then clipping into a MP with a separate sling, untieing, retieing, then unclipping possibly be seen as being more efficient?

It's not, though I have to admit I've never considered Andrew's scenario (not that I would actually climb that way).

for swapping ... i just stack on ground or over my tie in ... never had an issue

for block leading i either stack n flip ... or if it looks like i did a shiet job of stacking ... the second restacks it as i grab gear off him/her

i wont untie and retie in every pitch ... to me it seems like thats just an extra step where one could eff up especially after 20+ pitches ...

Why are you creating a lap coil on every pitch? Seems like a lot of extra work when you are at a belay ledge that will hold a rope pile.

Maybe you should think about using a lightweight rope bucket.

-sp wrote: It's not, though I have to admit I've never considered Andrew's scenario (not that I would actually climb that way).

If you build your multipitch anchor out of the climbing rope, it lets the second take over the anchor side. This could be considered simpler because you aren't carrying long slings and cordalette or whatever else you might need to make an anchor.

DannyUncanny wrote: If you build your multipitch anchor out of the climbing rope, it lets the second take over the anchor side. This could be considered simpler because you aren't carrying long slings and cordalette or whatever else you might need to make an anchor.

Yeah, you're right. That is a scenario that untying/retying makes sense. But if I know I will not be swapping leads I bring a cordalette.

I consider having to tie/untie a failure of planning. But sometimes you just have to improvise.

DannyUncanny wrote: If you build your multipitch anchor out of the climbing rope, it lets the second take over the anchor side. This could be considered simpler because you aren't carrying long slings and cordalette or whatever else you might need to make an anchor.

Fair enough. I tend to forget the rest of the world doesn't climb exclusively on doubles ropes like I do.

I almost always set up the anchor the same way: each rope goes to a separate pair of closely spaced pieces (or maybe one rope to a pair and a the other to a big bomber cam). The second comes up and cloves in to each anchor point on his own locking biners "under" my two ropes. Swap gear, flip the rope and off I go.

If we're swingning leads it's even easier. He clips in "above" my ropes, takes they rack and off he goes.

No more cordalettes or long slings.