North East Boot Recommendations

Hey folks,
I'm looking for some all-mountain boots. Ones that are comfortable enough for New England/Adirondack mountaineering and hiking and stiff enough for some easier ice. Warmth is a consideration, as I have poor circulation in my feet and they can get cold easily. They also need to be made in a size 14 (48). I have a fairly normal width foot.

It seems like the LS Nepals tend to be the obvious choice, but are they too stiff for general mountaineering? How do the LS Trango Extremes or the Scarpa Freneys compare in terms of warmth and comfort? Or are doubles the way I should go? Any advice you have would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.
- Kevin

Kevin,
Nepals are comfortable to walk around, but they're not that warm for especially Adirondacks and NH. I would go for LS Spantiks or Scarpa Phantom 6000s (I think they call them guides now). I have Spantiks, being a woman, I suffer from cold feet of course, and they kept me warm last winter in minus 30 degree weather while I was standing around belays. They are light, but at the same time super technical on vertical ice. It gets getting used to walk around in the beginning (they're really high top), but if you loosen up the upper portion when hiking they're fine (Sportiva boots have special locking in the lacing system, so you can adjust the tightness of below and above ankle separately).

As a counter-point, I figure 30% of everyone I see climbing in the Dacks and Franconia Notch are climbing in Nepal Evo's. The Nepal Evo is probably the single most popular boot around these parts, and for good reason. Almost everyone finds them warm enough. They also come in 14.

However, if you admittedly suffer from cold feet, you might be better served looking at a double boot. Both of Dolgio's recommendations are sound. One other model to look at would be the Sportiva Baruntse.

I had Nepal Evo's but I ditched them for the new Scarpa Phantom Guides because of fit issues. I have a very narrow heel and the SPG's seem to cater better to me in regards to locking my heel down for climbing steep ice.

One final caveat - all the boots that have been mentioned thus far are very stiff technical ice boots. There are probably better options for general mountaineering. They will be slightly more flexible and have more sole rocker for a more natural gait. Unfortunately, I'm not personally familiar with insulated boots of that nature, so I can't really make any specific recommendations.

Thanks for the replies.

Dolgio, I had looked at both the Spantiks (however they only make up to a 47) and the heavily insulated Scarpas. The main issue I have with these is the huge price tag, $700 for boots isn't quite in the college budget right now. They do look like great boots though.

Jon, I'm sure there are better options for general mountaineering boots. My issue is I kind of want one pair of boots to do it all. But maybe I'm asking too much. I don't need the perfect ice boots or the perfect mountaineering boots, just one that does both reasonably well.

I think I'm leaning toward the Nepal Evo's if I can find a good deal. Though I can't seem to find a shop that has them in a 48 in order to try them out. In terms adding warmth, does anyone have an opinion on insulated gaiters or super gaiters? Do vapor barrier socks help?

Thanks again.

Spantiks are great boots. They are great on long hikes and vertical ice. They are expensive but well worth it. They are on sale for $560 at moosejaw.

As far as I know, Scarpa Inverno goes up to size 14. Not great for either, but maybe good enough for both. Newer release of Inverno has high altitude liners so they should be good for whatever you need to do in terms of temperature.

Gaiters: it won't really do much to your cold feet. You lose heat primarily due to the soles of your boot. Gaiters don't protect the soles. VBL works pretty good. Just make sure you dry your feet, especially you are spending a few nights out.

Good luck!

In my experience insulated supergaiters add about 10 degrees F to the boot. Much of this comes from keeping your lower leg much warmer, which equals warmer blood going to your toes. Divnamite is right about the soles losing a lot of heat. There may be nothing you can do about this, but adding a layer of Dr Sholls insoles under the stock insole/footbed may be an option. That worked absolute wonders for my Scarp Freney XTs.

I own both the Spantiks, Trango Primes, and Nepals and have owned Scarpas in the past. From your opening post I think the Nepals would probably be your best bet but other boots I would look at include the LS Baturas and the new Scarpa Phantom Guide and Phantom 6000.

I would HIGHLY recommend you don't go with a double boot unless you have seriously severe circulation problems. A double boots hikes horribly, whatever other people may tell you, in comparison to single boots because they are very stiff. And no double boot climbs as well on ice as a single boot. Double boots are big and bulky; try on a pair of Baruntses and you'll see what I mean.

A boot like the Nepal will take you down to -10F without problem. If it gets colder than that you can throw on a pair of overboots. Don't base your boot purchase on the 10% of times that you might encounter the most extreme conditions; base it off the other 90% of time you'll find yourself using the boot. And if you really want to save some cash you should be able to find a pair of used Nepals for pretty cheap. A much smarter strategy for someone on a tight budget than dropping $600 on a pair Baruntses of Spantiks.

I own the Spantiks and love them for their purpose: extreme winter conditions and multi-day trips (when double boots earn their keep). However, I will avoid using them whenever possible if I can use my Nepals or Trangos instead because the others are lighter, hike better, and climb better.

Lastly, even for people with poor circulation, keeping you core warm most times will ameliorate the problem greatly. It's much easier (and cheaper) to bring a couple extra layers or a big belay jacket than buy the warmest boots out there. And not to mention your hikes/climbs will be that much more fun with svelter, comfier single boots.

Mike- The more research I do, the more I tend to agree that heavy duty boots like the Spantiks or Baruntses would be way overkill. Like you said, I should plan for the bulk of the usage, which would not require such an extremely insulated boot. I mean hell, I live in Connecticut. Thanks for smacking some sense into me.

I've had the Nepal's in mind for a while now, and I think they will be great for my general needs, but I will definitely check out the Scarpa alternatives. If I need more warmth I can either adapt, or eventually get a second, warmer pair.

I really appreciate everyone's advice, it has helped greatly. Thanks for taking the time.

I spend some time doing ice climbing and some mountaineering in Maine. I have a sivze 15 foot and use the Lowa Civetta Extreme.They are a pricey double boot, but they are very warm and very tough

So where does the Trango Prime sit in the LaSportiva lineup with regards to bulk and warmt?

I'm also in the Northeast and looking for something to replace my bulky Koflach Degres. Everyone likes the LS Nepal Evo, but I can get the Trango Primes for a lot less.

I would definitely recommend finding some way to try on the Nepals, if that's what you go with, or any other boot you may choose. I wanted Nepals a couple years back but found they just didn't fit right. I went with Raichle 80 Degrees (very similar boot) and they have worked wonderfully...and I got them for less than $200 since Raichle is now part of Mammut. I think the comparable boot from Mammut is now the Meridian GTX, but there are other choices too. Yeah, lots of people wear and love Sportiva, but they're not for everyone.

Something to remember from your OP is that your looking for a boot that you'll be moving alot in, not belaying all the time.

Also if you're feet get cold, put one of those handwarmers behind the tongue of your boot. It will warm up your feet and increase the blood flow.

the adk's are my home base for ice and i have climbed in LS nepals for the last few years, even in temps well below zero cold feet have never been an issue.
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