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Rusty Reno Article
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High foot, grab the smear, eyeball that bolt only feet away and tell yourself it will all be over soon. The only problem is that’s not the way it went[...] He spent the following seconds skating down the smooth granite face of El Cap; 30’, then 40’, then 70’ then 120’. Finally at the 200’ mark he hit the end of the rope and slammed into the dihedral to his left. Jarred, but conscious, he ascended the rope to inform Alex that he’ll need to lead this pitch.
Rusty Reno is a former Yosemite bum, Professor at Creighton University in Omaha, family man, and avid biker. He put up Autobahn a new route on Half Dome, crushed huge ice in Alaska, and has climbed many big wall routes on El Cap.  My buddy Chris recently wrote an in depth article about Rusty. It can be found here (part 1) and here (part 2). |
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This is a great interview/story. I don't know Rusty but I have read some of his work for First Things. He also wrote a striking piece for a national magazine, I want to say The Atlantic Monthly. |
