Anyone ever use the equalizing 2-loop Eight in anchors?

ah yeah, I think I see what you're gettin at -- assuming the knots didn't also get damaged from whatever caused a breakage in the sling; if it's from a large amount of falling terrain, any rigging may not be relevant anyway.

you could also just do one knot and slide it up.

wrt to the typical overhanded cordalette, it would be poor if you were setting yourself up to fall on it. Working around it at the anchor transitions just to keep yourselves in the system isn't all that dangerous.

Yes, I have used the bunny ear figure 8 mentioned in the original post. I like it but don't use it very often because of the complexity. The AE does feel like progress, I like it because, with clove hitches on the anchor pieces, it can be made redundant (but still not perfectly equalizing).

The man Craig L. covered most of these for many years in most of his wonderful contributions to climbing. Check out his books, this is not news but great tricks to know in a pinch, The rope can do more than tie you in.

The man Craig L. covered most of these for many years in most of his wonderful contributions to climbing. Check out his books, this is not news but great tricks to know in a pinch, The rope can do more than tie you in.

Some pretty darn nice tricks in this thread:

1. SRENE (Simple Redundent Equalized No Extension) is an oxymoron, there is no multidirectional equalization without some extension. Equalization with Little Extension is an admirable, and attainable goal.

2. Many folks do not understand what redundant means, nor can they analyze an anchor to figure out what sort of redundancy is present (i.e. simple sliding X noted earlier as not being redundant unless limiter knots are used, a lot of climbers don't get this).

3. Equalization and redundancy won't come into play 99.9% of the time, as you will rarely suject your anchor to a high load, and even them often a single piece of bomber gear would probably still keep the team from dying. Trouble is, you rarely know ahead of time what calamity is about to come your way the 0.1% of the time when it does matter.

4. Trango's Alpine Equalizer is equalized, but not redundant. The instrustions say to either use a limiter knot in the center leg, or put clove hitches at the protection pieces to make it redundant if you desire to do so. The limiter knot instruction is WRONG, and does not add redundancy. The clove hitch solution truly adds single redundancy, but reduces the equalization to 50/50 sharing between 2 pieces is still guaranteed, but one piece can end up not sharing any load depending on the angle of pull. I like the result as an overall compromise, but there is no need to have a specialized piece of gear once you've short circuited a good chunk of the equalization.

My $0.02.

freerangequark wrote:I have a question regarding the "Double Bowline on a Bight" shown above. Is this the same as a "Double Loop Bowline" also called a "Bowline on a Bight"? I'm in new territory here with these knots and was practicing tying them when I noticed what appears to be a difference between what is shown in this thread and what is shown in Craig Luebben's anchor book. I want to determine whether they're really different knots or if I'm tying one of them incorrectly. Thanks, -Glenn

Take a look at this:
animatedknots.com/bowlinebi…

Also, here's another useful B-on-a-B:

Richard Radcliffe wrote: Take a look at this: animatedknots.com/bowlinebi… Also, here's another useful B-on-a-B:

Yep, I got that one tied. But what I was referring to was the knot in Craig Luebben's Climbing Anchor book pp.222-223

He describes a "Double Loop Bowline (also called bowline on a bight)" and it looks different than what is posted above.

I'll take some pics and post them here.

The X with limiter knots on either side is exactly what Long talks about in his 2nd anchors book. He calls it an Equalette and with his, you just leave the limiter knots tied and then clove the strands into your anchor points and you can have up to 4 relatively equalized points. Has anybody else been using this? I like it a lot so far.