skinny rope(s) recommendations

We are in the market for new rope(s).

We want to use it (them) for low-grade long multi-pitch routes. We want the rope(s) lightweight for use with longer approaches and/or multi-day treks. Example places/routes we have done/will do include:
-flatiron multi-pitch routes (Boulder, CO)
-bugaboo provincial park alpine routes (this includes some glacier travel) (BC, Canada)
-red rocks, NV longer multi-pitch routes (LVegas, NV)
-Tetons (grand, etc.), WY
-Canadian rockies (bow valley, castle peak, lake ohara / lk louise area alpine, includes glacier travel)

Things to consider:
-we like to climb on a single rope, but would consider a double rope system...but would also consider a single-rope and "bring along" a second rope only for long repels.

-lightweight.

-we simul-climb a lot on the 5.0 to 5.4/5 parts of the routes...then hook-up quick belays when the route gets more difficult.

-we will not use the rope(s) a lot except for the multi-pitch trad routes.....we've got cords for top rope/training sort of thing.

-need ability to do full-rope repels (120m / 2 = 60m of repel length).

We like the new skinny rope options (Beal Joker, Mammut Serinity, etc.) but have not used them. Would like an option to pair with one of these ropes to carry as a "repel pair rope." Would also consider something like Mammut's Twilight twin rope system (supposed to be super light)...but wonder how it would work as a one-rope for simul-climbing / glacier travel and then "whip out the second" for real twin-rope climbing.

Cost not a big issue, but can't go crazy.

Thanks for advice and ideas.

I've been looking for a thin line, and have been attracted to the Bluewater Dominator (9.4 mm, 55g/m, 8.3 kN Impact force).

My requirements are a little different - I'm looking for a 70m and am not particularly interested in a twin system (though open to it) - but I'm also looking for recommendations, since there are a lot of ropes in the 9.4-9.7 diameter, and I want a particularly durable one.

i've said it before and I'll say it again Edelweiss laser 9.6. it's bi-color and with the everdry it's still only $140. For stuff like the flatirons and other lower angle stuff it's still plenty durable.

it comes in 70m for about $15 more

I've been very happy with my Beal joker. I'm going to buying another one soon, this time a 70m.

Josh Brown wrote:i've said it before and I'll say it again Edelweiss laser 9.6. it's bi-color and with the everdry it's still only $140. For stuff like the flatirons and other lower angle stuff it's still plenty durable. it comes in 70m for about $15 more

I've been climbing on an Edelweiss Laser for the last year. Although I like it and have gotten lots of use out of it, it seems thicker than advertised. It definitely feels thicker than a Petzl 9.8. That aside, it's been a great, durable rope.

...one left.

or a 60m x 9.7mm Lightning Pro for a bill

I've been using double 9mm lines for years (Sterling as of late) and really like the system. Sounds like you're planning on doing some alpine stuff where the routes tend to do a fair bit of wandering, a place where double ropes can be really handy. I'd be careful about the distinction between twin and double ropes. Twins really aren't meant for use as a single line. I prefer to have 2 lines tied in while climbing for the extra safety/flexibility as opposed to making the second carry one in a pack or having to mess around with trailing a separate line. Another option you might consider is to go with a thin (9mm) single line for climbing and take along something like a 7 or 8mm rap line to save some weight.

I just bought the laser, its a great rope. Cheap, and hopefully durable.

Thanks for the ideas...
wondering about Evan's idea, and considering it an option:
"Another option you might consider is to go with a thin (9mm) single line for climbing and take along something like a 7 or 8mm rap line to save some weight."

Need someone's experience with a repel with a 9+mm rope and a 7-8mm rope combo...how well does the two "different diameter" rope system slide through a repel device? Will it "drag a bit with the larger diameter rope" but slide "too much" through the smaller diameter?

Would, for example, an Edelweiss laser 9.6 "match up" with a 7.5mm Twilight (rap line) for a rap "pair?" (Not saying these are THE ropes to get, but the diameter difference is about 2.5mm...) would this matter much?

Thanks.

I've been using the Serenity for the past eight months and love it. So do my partners as it seems to get used more than any of their ropes. I actually bought a new one today.

I have the Mammut Sernendipity 8.9mm single and LOVE it. It has been all over, the Black, Grand Teton, Needles, and has held up better than a Mammut 10mm I bought around the same time. I use it in conjunction with an 8mm double to rappel. The two ropes feed a bit different, be sure to set up so you pull on the skinny line. That way the knot binds up at the anchor and can't accidently pull through.
Jon

Single rope: Mammut Serenity. (lightest single rope there is.)

Double/Twin Rope: Metolius Monster (lightest rope that is qualified as a double or a twin.)

I own both, and highly recommend them.

If I had to pick one system, I'd take the Metolious pair. 1 would be fine for glacier travel, and 2 are good for everything else.

My suggestion is a little biased, but these ropes might fit the task. :)

--Marc

Why not just get a skinny half rope and use it as a single. Most likely that will be fine for your purposes.

Dusty Ross wrote: I've been climbing on an Edelweiss Laser for the last year. Although I like it and have gotten lots of use out of it, it seems thicker than advertised. It definitely feels thicker than a Petzl 9.8. That aside, it's been a great, durable rope.

I do agree with Dusty on the "seems thicker" aspect of this rope, however it is fairly light compared to my 9.8 sterling and is definitely thinner

I exclusively use a petzl fuse 9.4 mm rope for multi-pitch trad. It is light and 70 meters long which often allows us to string pitches together. It is a great all-around rope.

What ever became of those issues with the Petzl ropes blowing apart? I think it was with the Zephyrs... anyone here have any more info on those issues beyond the sheath 'dusting' away? Call me paranoid but ever since then i pretty much include a "-petzl" comment in my rope searches (okay, not literally but...)

I'm a big fan of the skinny single + rap line unless the route is very wandering and/or has a lot of sharp rock. I use Mammut 6mm pro cord for the rap line. Lightest rope system out there for full length raps plus you don't have the hassle of dealing with two ropes on lead.

I just got my first skinny for Christmas, the Laser 9.6. I love it so far and have only heard rave reviews on it. Especially for the price. I definitely recommend it!

Has anybody climbed with the Edelweiss Performance (9.2mm, 53 g/m, 8.2 kN impact)? I'm shopping for/buying a thin 70m and can't decide between it and the Sterling Nano.

Edelweiss pros - It's $32 dollars cheaper, and my current Edelweiss rope has handled well and stood up to several years of use and is still in decent shape.

Nano pros - holds 6 UIAA falls to the Performance's 5, and I've only read/heard good things about it from people who own it.

Anyone have any strong impressions (neg/pos) on these or any other ~9.2mm cords?

The drag and slide with the different rope diameters is something to be aware of. It seems to help when using this on rap rings to have the fatter rope go through the rings then join your other rope. This way the knot ends up against the ring and prevents the drag and slide difference.