Five Ten Moccasym

Greetings,

I really like these shoes, however, I am worried about sizing. Does anyone have first hand experience with these bad boys?

I tried on a 9 and it was pretty damn tight and hard to get on, my big toe curled and fit nicely. I heard this shoes stretch, so I am worried that the 9's might end up being too big. Should I go with the 8.5?

Thoughts?

there hippie shoes..

lucaskrajnik wrote:there hippie shoes..

"They're" actually a great shoe to have. When I used to wear them, I would size them down one full size below my street shoe size. They do stretch a boat load, so expect the pain to go away after a week or two's worth of regular wear.

What are you wearing them for? Bouldering, crack shoes, all around?

Bouldering you would want them tight, all around a bit more forgiving, and an Indian Creek style crack shoe a bit big really....so you can pretty much get your toes flat to stuff the tip into small cracks. The slightly bigger shoe also is much more comfortable if you are foot jamming all day long. They kind of suck at edging then, but it is a trade off.

Paul Hunnicutt wrote:What are you wearing them for? Bouldering, crack shoes, all around?

I would like to use them to push my sport climbing grade limit. Therefore, I need them tight enough to utilize the edging capabilities. I have a more comfortable pair I use for all day trad outings.

I guess my question was more directed to the fact that they are snug and a little painful when I wear a 9. How much smaller should I go if I want them to be tight and still technically sound, but reasonably comfortable after they stretch?

Chris Duca wrote: "They're" actually a great shoe to have. When I used to wear them, I would size them down one full size below my street shoe size. They do stretch a boat load, so expect the pain to go away after a week or two's worth of regular wear.

They are Hipster shoes.

lucaskrajnik wrote: They are Hipster shoes.

Gotcha.

I found that sizing them down a full size was adequate enough to climb hard and technical route. And as Paul stated, they're not the best edging shoe. The LaSportiva Viper, on the other hand, is a great slipper for edging.

If you want them for Indian Creek, get them in your street shoe size, or just large enough so your toes and the ball of your foot lie wide and flat. It's easier to get more of your foot into thin hands, rattle-fingers, etc. when your toes are laying flat. I have a pair of Mocs that I only use at the Creek. I usually bring some clod-stompers for hand and fists and use the Mocs on anything with a lot of #2 Friend and smaller jamming.

Also, consider using seam sealer/resole glue to protect the leather around the toebox (I like Freesole). The leather over the toes will get thrashed if you do a lot of crack climbing.

I would get a different shoe for hard sport climbing. I have had mocs for years for climbing cracks in the desert, but they get so round on the edges so fast that I think they suck for edging. My advice which you should feel free to ignore is to get a pair or Jet 7s or La Sportiva Solutions. The edge will hold way better, they won't have the same stretching issues, and you will climb harder.

Jeremy H wrote:I would get a different shoe for hard sport climbing. My advice which you should feel free to ignore is to get a pair or Jet 7s or La Sportiva Solutions. The edge will hold way better, they won't have the same stretching issues, and you will climb harder.

I second that. But if you really like the rand of the Moc and it fits you well try the Anazazi(sp) Velcro. For vertical to slightly overhanging I find them to edge better then any other shoe. They don’t stretch much, so in the store fit them to your liking.

I can't say enough good things about my Evolv Pontas. Incredible sport climbing shoe...great edging. Maybe not the best on super crazy overhanging, but on vertical and slight overhangs they work amazing.

I've always sized a shoe sung enough that it doesn't hurt while climbing...then again maybe I just don't climb hard enough? no pain no gain.

Evolv are synthetic so what you get in the store is essentially what you get climbing. They conform to your feet a bit, but don't stretch much at all.

Jason if they are snug and a little painful at 9 then try dropping down a 1/2 size to allow for stretch. So yes, based on my experience I'd go with the 8.5's

My opinion is that if you drop a full size you'll likely only be feeling what seems to be knife blades on your toes and not the rock anyways.

What's the worst that can happen?..... they stretch to the point of a comfortable day to day shoe? Whereas, if you go too small they'll just sit and never get worn.

I exclusively wear Five Ten shoes and my Moccasym's are 1/2 size smaller than my day-to-day boot to allow for stretch. Tight at first but then.....perfection!

~Susan

what mocs lack in edging, they more than make up for when you smear.
I tend to not even edge in em, and just smear on the spot id edge on, theyre great shoes, wear em tight for everything but crack climbing, the only bad thing about em is they do stretch a bucketload and you cant get as many resoles on em, so...id think about weather you can afford a hundred dollar pair of slippers that will hold maybee 3 resoles. If you get em too big, they will stretch too much and get sloppy real fast.

I've worn Moccaysms for years and probably have 10 pairs.

Some observations:

1. Sizing is sometimes inconsistent. Only buy after trying them on.
2. Buy small because they stretch a lot. Foot should be slightly scrunched when new but not painfully so.
3. They do not resole well. Something to think about.
4. They do not edge. Good smearing technique, to some extent, can overcome this disadvantage and they work well on face climbs with little dishy holds. However, on dime-edge climbs, Moccasyms are not my first choice.
5. I prefer a more substantial shoe for cracks.

Overall a great shoe for gym and sport climbing, face climbing to the high 11 range, not so good for cracks or really thin edgy faces.

Not good for cracks??? Perhaps you are on crack.

Have you seen the cracks these shoes have sent? These are the shoe for Indian Creek.

Agreed though, these are not the shoe for precise edging. They do indeed smear well however.

thegreenalien wrote:Not good for cracks??? Perhaps you are on crack. Have you seen the cracks these shoes have sent? These are the shoe for Indian Creek. Agreed though, these are not the shoe for precise edging. They do indeed smear well however.

It's my opinion, based on my climbing style and where I've climbed with them. I find them painful in granite cracks and prefer a shoe offering more protection. I find climbing cracks in moccasyms to be like climbing without tape--I can do it, and it works, but it hurts like hell. I do know climbers who think they are great for Indian Creek, but I haven't tried them there.

Jason Isherwood wrote:I am worried that the 9's might end up being too big. Should I go with the 8.5? Thoughts?

I wear 8s, they feel a bit tight for the first couple of days but once I break them in they feel quite comfortable. I also have a pair of size 9 Anasazi Velcros and they feel about the same in terms of comfort. The Galileos and Anasazis don't seem to stretch much, the Mocs stretch significantly.

They are the best shoe I have ever worn in the desert, BUT you need to size them really big or they will hurt. My toes are completely flat in them for crack climbing. I also agree that they are great at smearing, I guess it depends on where you are sport climbing if they make sense or not.

Sending off my second pair for resole after an amazing 9 months of crack climbing. Moccs are my go-to general purpose shoe. If I need a good edger, or something for lots of long hands and bigger cracks, I'll use something else.

If you don't want them to be all floppy, you're gonna have to buy the smallest pair that you can possibly cram both feet into. By the end of their lifespan, they'll still be a little floppy. They aren't stiff enough to be a good all day shoe, so don't think that once they're broken in completely that you'll be able to use them as such.

For thin cracks (that is, .75 camalot and smaller), I've yet to find a better shoe. They are all right for hands and bigger, just painful. I completely blew out the leather on the top of my first pair by jamming hands and fists too much in them.

Once fully broken in, the heel will not hold a heel hook that well unless your heel is digging into the shoe as much as the shoe is digging into the rock. Moccs suck for thin technical edging, but as already stated, they smear incredibly well.

They can usually handle one resole, but after that, you just need to buy another pair.

I've got a pair of Mocs that I've owned--no shit--for 14+ years. They stretch like a mofo but they're great shoes. I still wear mine at the gym occasionally. I'd get them about as small as you can tolerate.

--Marc