Rope system analysis - forces involved

If you have time here is a link to Rope systems analysis and inparticular about the forces involved.

amrg.org/Rope_system_analys…

Wow... after reading that, suddenly climbing seems really dangerous. How come more people aren't dying???

Year, it's a real reality check isn't it!

The main limitations of that analysis are that it is almost exclusively focused on the case in which the rope does not slip through the belay device; and that it is based on no experimental data. From what I remember reading, when a tube belay device is used, even rather serious falls seldom generate a force exceeding the rating of a mid-size cam (say, greater than 10 kN).

Lots of math, but the recommendations are worth noting:

• Build your anchors to withstand 25 kN (5500 lb) when possible.
• If you are going to use wire chocks and cams that have a typical strength of 2000 lbs, then don’t lead out more than 1/4 the belayed rope
• Never exceed your climbing abilities on a big wall climb. Test your skills at a rock gym, on bolted routes, or under top-roped conditions.
• Use only ‘new’ ropes for lead climbing. To protect against shock loading of the anchors, use a rope with a low modulus or impact force rating.
• Use a dynamic belay device.