New and Experienced Climbers over 50 #44

I've definitely grabbed the foot to help it onto the next hold in the past, not so much now that I'm climbing year round and staying looser from it. I also always wear looser fitting stretchy pants now.

I like the bridge, that's one carpentry project I do not have in the books. There were quite a few wooden bridges in Nova Scotia , most without any steel and no posted weight limits. 

x15x15 wrote:

My hand is raised...

Ha! Ha! I laughed out loud at this. Yep, my hand is up as well. I will definitely use the “advanced technique” line next time it happens. 

We put up a climb 3 miles up the road from my house that I absolutely place my foot with my hand.  Haven't done it yet this year and can't remember which foot...  but yes that's been one of my standard moves for quite a few years now.  

Daniel Joder wrote:

Ha! Ha! I laughed out loud at this. Yep, my hand is up as well. I will definitely use the “advanced technique” line next time it happens. 

me too.
I also use the multi swing foot dyno - several tries to swing the foot high enough.

There's a chill in the air.  Last night with Isa.

A fellow climber posted this picture of Charles Cole this morning in a Facebook Climbers site.  

here I am sitting at the base of one of my favorite routes, Torturers Apprentice, and admiring the route directly to its right, the much more difficult route with FA Charles himself, Gun Shy 5.11b. I could name so many more with his name on them and here I am 50 years later wishing I could have witnessed this. I’m still so fascinated by the history of this place.

Also another favorite, The Decompensator of Lhasa FA Randy Vogel and Charles Cole.

Sometimes when the world gets too much I just find a perch to sit and admire.  

Last week. Was able to climb 5 days in a row!

Hope everyone is doing well.

Older Daughter Katie and I made it to Sonora Pass, completing now 1,018 miles of the PCT from Mexico (over a period of 20 years).

We had perfect weather and blue, blue Sierra skies. All while hiking some of the very, very best of this long trail.

For anyone interested, I did a trip report on the Mudn'Crud Pinnacles web site (mostly photos):

https://www.mudncrud.com/forums/index.php?topic=3148.0 

Fantastic pics, James and Brad.

 I was also able to get out backpacking with my daughter this week during the bug free and best time of Sierra summer.  The highlight was an unexpectedly awesome traverse from Ward Mountain to Mount Shinn.

Awesome photos.

James….. I gots to know. 2nd photo, blueish blurr. 

What is it?

Lori…. Did Tony make Chi town?
And I didn’t recognize Charles without a babyruth and a Diet Pepsi in his hands. Sugar blast was his secret!
Imagine what YOU could do? Next time you’re at the base all tied in and ready to go- power down a 3 Musketeer a BabyRuth and a Uno bar at one sitting then wash it all down from the two liter Diet Pepsi that passes as ‘water’. I remember the times I would give him a ride to idlewild via Hemet. He had very peculiar eating habits to say the least. Stop at a liquor store get about 8 candy bars, 2 2liter bottles Diet Pepsi. Go next to the Burger King to get a double whopper then on to McDonald’s for fries…. Finishing with Taco Bell to grab 2 bean and cheese burritos. That was all the food he needed for a weekend. I was sort of into “healthy food” as wheat bread, sprouts, tomatoes and vegetables were known as at the time. I was shocked, but it worked for him.

One of the things I like most about climbing is the people you meet and climb with. Socio economic barriers are broken down and the only thing that matters is “are you a good climber? I have driven a VW bug with a Doctor, unemployed laborer and student for a week long stint in Yosemite. Good conversation for sure.

Later

Guy- snow/ice/slurpee slush.

Double Edit for Guyman: North Peak, north face taken from 11,500’ish.

Guy Keesee wrote:

James….. I gots to know. 2nd photo, blueish blurr. 

What is it?

Lori…. Did Tony make Chi town?
And I didn’t recognize Charles without a babyruth and a Diet Pepsi in his hands. Sugar blast was his secret!
Imagine what YOU could do? Next time you’re at the base all tied in and ready to go- power down a 3 Musketeer a BabyRuth and a Uno bar at one sitting then wash it all down from the two liter Diet Pepsi that passes as ‘water’. I remember the times I would give him a ride to idlewild via Hemet. He had very peculiar eating habits to say the least. Stop at a liquor store get about 8 candy bars, 2 2liter bottles Diet Pepsi. Go next to the Burger King to get a double whopper then on to McDonald’s for fries…. Finishing with Taco Bell to grab 2 bean and cheese burritos. That was all the food he needed for a weekend. I was sort of into “healthy food” as wheat bread, sprouts, tomatoes and vegetables were known as at the time. I was shocked, but it worked for him.

One of the things I like most about climbing is the people you meet and climb with. Socio economic barriers are broken down and the only thing that matters is “are you a good climber? I have driven a VW bug with a Doctor, unemployed laborer and student for a week long stint in Yosemite. Good conversation for sure.

Later

Guy, I obviously didn't know Charles but I've certainly heard the stories of his sugar addiction many times. As a insulin-dependent diabetic, it all sounds so familiar, and sad.  With an unexplained and early passing, I have wondered if this was his problem. (some form of diabetes). 

When I think back to my late teens/early 20's, I 'think' we were already into health foods, but we were not.  My best friend and I routinely went on 'Hostess Twinkie Diets', under the theory that if you can only eat one thing today, it might as well be something you like.  I lived on Dr. Pepper and whatever cheap food was available, and cigarettes. And, for awhile, whatever we could snort (that would have been a huge help on any route). No one was making any connection to what we ate and how we felt, or what diseases were in the making. 

I know this is my regular rant, but most of the people I knew then don't look so good today.  And most of the people I stand in line with at the grocery store don't look so good--they are in pain, wheelchair bound, many just plain helpless.  I believe we have failed as a country to make the connection to our population that those chronic diseases, walkers, frailty, etc would be mostly avoidable.  

Anyway, I think we lost charles way too early.  I would like to have known him.   

---

Tony arrived safely in Chicago last week, and he is just nestling into the bosom of his family. :-)  I never objected to him going before, but this year I am really understanding what 'family' means to him.  I thought I made a huge move to Joshua Tree, leaving everything behind, but now I see that Tony made the bigger move, and not just in terms of miles. And it makes it all the more poignant that he asks me everyday about my climbing... wants to know about my 'pile of rocks'.    And then he segues into discussion about cars, and especially his new one, and his amazement that he gets better mileage going down the hill to Palm Springs than back up hill to home. Endless wonder.   

James Harvey wrote:

Guy- snow/ice/slurpee slush.

You wouldn’t fib now.

How about those fabulous looking Arets, next frame? 

Mike Waugh

Credit: Unknown (Cole Gibson Stoney Point Documentary)

One of the things my aging brain loves is putting names to faces… keeps the elasticity fluid. Like a good crossword puzzle.

And one of the things I love most about climbing is Pete Rose could be having a game of pepper on the climb right next to you fully incognito and without my “facial recognition software” I wouldn’t know him from Adam/Eve…

My partners tell me I have an uncanny ability to spot famous and semi-famous climbers. Working 25+ years at Outdoor Retailers Show certainly afforded me the opportunity to know the players at that time.. My wife agrees.

Long story short…

Lembert Dome Wednesday we climbed Northwest Books and Direct Northwest Face (Bob Kamps will always be a stud IMHO). I had never topped out Lembert Dome proper. Always walked down the toe-busting slabs facing the parking lot.

After crossing 120 and winding through the tent camp past Dog Lake Parking, we were thirsty for a beer and really flying.. from my microdosed state, I look up to see this silver haired, absolutely ripped fireplug carrying a quintuple sized crashpad and racing solo towards us. This man is SOMEBODY.  A giant smile beamed below his blue eyes as we exchanged greetings..

Ten steps later with him long gone, my recall kicked in… Mike Waugh. Saying his name to my wife instantly.. she laughed and said you are probably right.. 

Back at camp she drummed up some internet beta on Mike and confirmed my suspicions.

Supertopo Appreciation Thread for Mike came up… Guyman has some good stories.. as do many, many others. Too bad all the historic pictures are long gone…

Lori would like reading about Mike Waugh and Bob Kamps..

RIP, Dolly. You are loved and appreciated as a music icon and as a good human being.

James Harvey:

I’m quite impressed you can climb 5 days in a row. I haven’t been able to do that since my 50s. Two seems like all I want these days.

Direct NW Face on Lembert is one of my favorite routes in the Meadows. Probably #2 after Lucky Streaks.

Yesterday with hubby at Elizabeth Lake. Today we did Sherman Lakes. Very nice walks. 

Dolly was a wonderful caring person.  

Guy Keesee wrote:

James….. I gots to know. 2nd photo, blueish blurr. 

What is it?

Lori…. Did Tony make Chi town?
And I didn’t recognize Charles without a babyruth and a Diet Pepsi in his hands. Sugar blast was his secret!
Imagine what YOU could do? Next time you’re at the base all tied in and ready to go- power down a 3 Musketeer a BabyRuth and a Uno bar at one sitting then wash it all down from the two liter Diet Pepsi that passes as ‘water’. I remember the times I would give him a ride to idlewild via Hemet. He had very peculiar eating habits to say the least. Stop at a liquor store get about 8 candy bars, 2 2liter bottles Diet Pepsi. Go next to the Burger King to get a double whopper then on to McDonald’s for fries…. Finishing with Taco Bell to grab 2 bean and cheese burritos. That was all the food he needed for a weekend. I was sort of into “healthy food” as wheat bread, sprouts, tomatoes and vegetables were known as at the time. I was shocked, but it worked for him.

One of the things I like most about climbing is the people you meet and climb with. Socio economic barriers are broken down and the only thing that matters is “are you a good climber? I have driven a VW bug with a Doctor, unemployed laborer and student for a week long stint in Yosemite. Good conversation for sure.

Later

Talking about food, and sugar etc. When I was a recruit instructor in the army I used to mix red cordial and glucodin powder together in an army water bottle, used to keep me going for ages. 

While my wife cooks for me at home, I of course cook for myself when on a climbing trip. I make 'KAF soup' (which stands of Korean As Fuck soup) which is basically fish stock, dashi powder, seaweed, Bok Choy and chunks of tofu. Breakfast on day two (the day after I arrive) as always a Kitchener bun with coffee. I get the bun from a bakery on the drive up (it takes my about five hours to get to Arapiles), put it in the esky in the brown paper bag it comes in, and the next morning it's nicely slightly stale.