Fingerboard or Kilter/Touchstone/Tension/Moon boards to build strength to get to V9?

Back on the Kilter board again! No 20 foot high crux moves when bouldering.   

Finally, getting to 20 pounds assist for one arm 20mm hangs. Lock-off first then will work on negatives to drop to hangs.

Regressed a bit. Going to use the floor pull to warmup. Get up to 170 or so.

Monday pull hard on 20mm one arm pulls and light boulders to warmup up.

Tuesday climb hard, mainly lead gym cracks lieback work on 30 degree negative incline. Up to 5.12b/c

Wednesday focus is cracks, TR and thin fingers up to 5.12b climbs only

Thursday Kilter board getting 10 routes and working up to 20, light and easy negative 40 degrees.

Rest three days… some cardio 

Liebacking thin cracks at the gym is giving me Joshua Tree fingertips.   

My partner told me we’re likely the only ones leading those cracks, or even climbing them. The cracks are pretty rough.

Got on a 5.12d and a 5.13a last night, the holds felt like “normal holds” finger strength is there but the climbs are still not easy… lots of problem solving… got the starts and hit the crux moves with that feeling like “I can climb this, if I could figure it out”.

Now that my fingers are trained via the methods outlined in this thread, I need to work my brain the same way.