Half Dome's Snake Dike is being retrobolted - get involved!

Siobhán Straverwrote:

I don’t think a trad climber is going to find it offensive that they don’t know enough about stick clipping sport routes.

And you’ve got to admit the rest of his points are pretty spot on. 

The guy doesn't even climb anymore so ...

Justin Hendersonwrote:

I just had a little coffee come out my nose. 🫤

After 50 years of climbing, I had planned to do Snake Dike this fall.  Now that it has been "Gymified" I guess I'll forgo it.  It baffles the mind how arrogant some people can be.

David Baltzwrote:

After 50 years of climbing, I had planned to do Snake Dike this fall.  Now that it has been "Gymified" I guess I'll forgo it.  It baffles the mind how arrogant some people can be.

First half is already chopped off.. second half of his bolts are supposedly on the chopping block this week.. so maybe you'll be ok afterall!

Not sure if you’re tracking the other thread but apparently Sloan came into the mountain shop in Curry yesterday and told Russ he’s going to go right back up and rebolt it again if they are removed. 

It’s a lot cheaper to chop

Sloan is such a POS.  In the old days there would be actual consequences to such behavior that was typically settled in a parking lot.  I am glad that Russ confronted him in the Mountain Shop, but if he continues to retrobolt, somebody needs to really confront him.

Mark Fletcherwrote:

Sloan is such a POS.  In the old days there would be actual consequences to such behavior that was typically settled in a parking lot.  I am glad that Russ confronted him in the Mountain Shop, but if he continues to retrobolt, somebody needs to really confront him.

Settle down, Mark. 

I get it that passions are running high but let's take the high road. Our actions removing the bolts and our commitment to see that through will speak louder than any parking lot shenanigans.

John Tuttlewrote:

 Our actions removing the bolts and our commitment to see that through will speak louder than any parking lot shenanigans.

No they won’t. Dude literally said he’s gonna go back up and do it again if the bolts are removed. There is a time and place for everything, including vigilante justice. When civil discourse fails, what else is left?

Tony Danzawrote:

No they won’t. Dude literally said he’s gonna go back up and do it again if the bolts are removed. There is a time and place for everything, including vigilante justice. When civil discourse fails, what else is left?

It's just a rock. You are suggesting "altering" a living thing. Think that over. The rock will outlast all of us so respect the short life span of the living things

Tony Danzawrote:

No they won’t. Dude literally said he’s gonna go back up and do it again if the bolts are removed. There is a time and place for everything, including vigilante justice. When civil discourse fails, what else is left?

Do we *really* want a replay of the Bacher / Kauk Camp 4 parking lot altercation?

Marc801 Cwrote:

Do we *really* want a replay of the Bacher / Kauk Camp 4 parking lot altercation?

People have been moaning about one fist fight for 40 years now, holding it up as the worst possible sin. Who cares?!? How can the climbing community be so death-defying and yet so soft? 

Imagine if you could credibly sell a fraction of the hikers trying to get up half dome on the promise of snake dike: half dome, no permits required. Could write an entire book just devoted to preparing a layman to climb snake dike - “the secret way up half dome climbers don’t want you to know about”, and sell it for $50. Affiliate links for all the recommended gear!

I was struggling to explain why Erik Sloan is going about this in the manner he is. This, my most cynical take, is the most plausible explanation.

Those photos, and my recollection of the route look well beyond what’s necessary to make it safer. He’s trying to make it pedestrian. 

Andrew Richardsonwrote:

People have been moaning about one fist fight for 40 years now, holding it up as the worst possible sin. Who cares?!? How can the climbing community be so death-defying and yet so soft? 

As a retired MD that worked many Trauma's that were brought in after "a little punch in the face" that became life threatening quick I will state categorically that "physical confrontation" has no place whatsoever in this conversation.

We want the moral high ground here and don't need to make Sloan a martyr in the national media.

"i was just trying to help newbie climbers and I got assaulted. Here's my gofundme page..."

How long do you think that would take to play out? And if some news outlet picks it up and it grabs the national interest...then Sloan gets exactly what he wanted, money.

Andrew Richardsonwrote:

People have been moaning about one fist fight for 40 years now, holding it up as the worst possible sin. Who cares?!? How can the climbing community be so death-defying and yet so soft? 

It's not soft. It's understanding that violence doesn't resolve conflict and physical conflict can have long lasting ripple effects. It's also a good way to land yourself in court these days. Do you think punching Sloan in the face is going to help change his mind? Or are you hoping to scare him away with threats? What if he is more in the fight than you? You ready to go all "to the death" over a route?

I'm not suggesting anyone punch anyone, nor have I personally made any kind of threat. I just think pearl-clutching over a little parking lot scuffle from 1988 is silly in a sport where people literally die every month.

thomas elliswrote:

It's just a rock. You are suggesting "altering" a living thing. Think that over. The rock will outlast all of us so respect the short life span of the living things

The tar and feathering I suggested would not be a *permanent* alteration of a living thing. Sloan *permanently* altered the rock. 

Yosemite classic Snake Dike is a perfect route and has no need to be "improved" (i.e., made worse). It has served climbers well for the past 60 years - and once this blight is removed - will continue to do so for the next 60. The only thing that needs improvement is the climbers who, for whatever reason, can't climb it. 

Eric Sloan is completely and irretrievably full of sh|t.

There's an abundance of rock in Yosemite to make one's own mark by putting in the time, effort, and vision to develop a first ascent. Unilaterally making the decision to destroy a mega classic historic Yosemite climb is myopic arrogant sociopathic narcissism. 

A BIG THANKS in advance to the honorable Valley climber who erases Sloan's retrobolt douchbaggery. No additional bolts are warranted or needed. Chop into total oblivion and bury forever Sloan's DoucheTopo Wankervision of Valley Classics. 

Drinks on me when I see you. 

I have emailed Sloan to inform him that no more bolts will be chopped, and all that he places on snake dike will have the hangers cut and left in place. I also let him know that if he continues, the hardware on any route in the valley with his name on the FA, will be pulled.

Let Sloan be the one who cannot see a way forward, without violence.