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Eldo fixed gear cleanup
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Pretty sure there are 1-2 tri cams on the last pitch of Swanson. |
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Cleaned a nut at the start of the Verschneidung dihedral. There is a new #2 UL in the vicinity of the rigid-stem Friend. It can be knocked sideways and wiggles, but the crack is almost the same width as the hammerhead and I didn't want to get my hammer stuck. Need a thinner hammer for that one. |
Gregger Man wrote: Is the sling attached to the "head" of the hammer (instead of the handle) for a useful reason? |
Patrik wrote: Dyneema funkness device: https://hownot2.com/products/whack?_pos=1&_sid=5bc4fb901&_ss=r |
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Is the 3.5 Camalot still buried in the Grand Course? |
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Anyone got tips for removing the green wild country on Wide Country? It looks in good shape, but all trigger wires have been broken and it has umbrella'ed open behind the flake (this is near the top, after the bolt, before the upper roof traverse). Anyone made like a 4 ended lobe retractor or something? |
Caleb wrote: Unless someone put another one in there in the last month, Grand Course is clean. The previous was removed maybe 6-8 years ago after it was decided to not resling it. |
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Went up Rewritten yesterday. The Zot start has two cams and a nut at the crux. There are three cams just below the P1 belay. The P4 traverse is clean, and the vertical portion above that has 2 or 3 pieces. I had a hammer, but didn't want to hold up traffic. I loosened up the cam on the Zot start but didn't quite get it out. Hacksaw time for many of these pieces. |
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Years ago in Ak we removed a Wild Country #6 with a 500 Magnum. It was in horizontal roof and I’ll never forget hanging there being quite afraid to pull the trigger. Definitely not the way in Eldo, but in a more remote location I recommend it for the vertical trash collector desiring a memorable experience. |
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Potentially wrong place for this post but I had to abandon a classic HB offset on P2 of Blind Faith. If one of you kind folk happen to be up there and unsnag it I’m offering beverage of choice for its return. |
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There are two small cams deep under a flake on the right side of Breezy P2. |
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We removed the stuck #3 on the first pitch of Werk Supp & and the exploded .2/.3 offset on the March of Dimes crux pitch last week. There is an overcammed totem .5 on the first pitch of Werk Supp right now - I worked hard at it but could not free it. Going early when the rock is cold might get you the tolerance you need to remove it. |
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Is there still a stuck .4 on Surfs Up? |
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Theres a #2 stuck in Star Wars. |
Daniel Kay wrote: I'm trying to keep my original list up-to-date, so there are still a lot of challenges for you guys out there. I also add more items as I find them. All others out there, feel free to add on your own list of stuff you find out there in this thread. I still see "long term fixed" gear disappearing (just saw today that Sooberb roof has been cleaned up), so some (or a few) climbers are helping us keeping this place clean. Thanks a bunch! ... whoever you are. Anyone cleaning some gear on my list, feel free to either post it here or send me an MP PM. I'll update the list, so others don't chase after the junk someone just removed. |
Patrik wrote: What an excellent treasure map, thank you! |
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Three fixed pieces on the second pitch of Gambit (2&3 linked to the rotten ledge) [a 0.75, a #2 and a #1 if my memory is correct) |
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4 pieces cleaned from Wind Ridge. (I also got one of two sling-less pink tricams using a hacksaw - but I fumbled it and it fell to the base.) There is another pink tricam head that will take more hacksaw time, and a link cam that is buried really deep. The broken BD angle piton remnant should also go away next.  |
