Half Dome - Moderate line beside the cables?

With all this talk about Snake Dike I got to wondering why I can’t seem to find any info on moderate routes on either side of the cables—especially (maybe) 100 feet to the right along what looks like a nice line of cracks and exfoliating slabs. A quick look around with Google and on Mountain Project didn’t reveal anything, unless I missed it somehow. 

Is there anything there? Or am I being ignorant and not finding the appropriate information somewhere?

Seems like if there was a nice moderate (bolted or not) up this side of Half Dome it might take the pressure off of Snake Dike. (It would even be more awesome because you could climb roughly parallel to those common “hikers” laboring up the cables thus showing off the inherent superiority of “real” climbers.)

I don't know about climbing up on the south side of the cables, but I did walk down over there once. 

From the 1971 Roper guidebook: 

"The face can be climbed without using the cables (class 5)"

How far right or left of the cables is for you to find out.  Unfortunately, if you want to climb left or right of the cables, you will likely need a HD permit because the ranger checkpoint is at the subdome...

From Secor's 1992 The High Sierra - Peaks, Passes, and Trails" guidebook:

"The face on either side of the cables is class 5, and was first climbed in 1931 by Warren Loose, Eldon Dryer, and Judd Boynton."

Casting about for other reasonably easy and safe options for the Half-Dome-aspiring moderate climber...

Just me looking at the photo... anyone ever do any of these lines? The middle one looks like it could be trad the whole way and seems the most natural and aesthetic to me.

The one on the left might require some Sloan bolts here and there to make it safe. The one on the right? Who knows. Could be too hard for a "moderate"???

Daniel, I doubt you'll ever see popular routes end up in these spots at this point because getting to the base of the climb would require a Half Dome permit.

It’s already a circus up there. 

Natalie Blackburnwrote:

Daniel, I doubt you'll ever see popular routes end up in these spots at this point because getting to the base of the climb would require a Half Dome permit.

Ah, didn’t know that. Haven’t been climbing in the Valley for decades. 

And, philip, I was just trying to find a way to confine the circus to the side of Half Dome that is already apparently a circus. 

Simple, you just add the death slabs and double the length from there:

(Ignore the phone photo of a screenshot of Google earth, it'll totally work)

An instant modern classic that is definitely a good alternative to snake dike. 

M Awrote:

Simple, you just add the death slabs and double the length from there:

(Ignore the phone photo of a screenshot of Google earth, it'll totally work)

An instant modern classic that is definitely a good alternative to snake dike. 

Yeah, and you get the added fun of dodging dropped water bottles on the way up.

Anything off the sub dome would require a permit most likely. You’d have to do something much further to the south and cut through a mile of scrub oak to get there, it likely wouldn’t be 5.7, the position, quality of climbing as well as aesthetics wouldn’t hold a candle to Snake Hike. It wouldn’t have the history aspect either. There’s a couple routes over there already to choose from. Nobody ever does them. Wonder why? 

While your first idea might not work, your approach of “how do i make a sick climb to take the pressure off snake dike” is quite beautiful. I encourage you to keep brainstorming ideas.

certainly a much more stylish approach than retrobolting someone else’s climb

At the risk of getting flamed to hell, I want to input a perspective that I feel has been missing in the discussions about retrobolting SD. When I climbed it (followed, admittedly, because it was too scary to lead for me), I didn't care too much for the history of the route or the runouts. I just wanted a moderate way to get up Half Dome without having to worry about permit lotteries or anything like that. It's just a bit of a shame that the obvious way up was claimed and spicy-bolted decades before I was even alive.

If someone were to bolt a less spicy moderate line up Half Dome, it would be much appreciated by slab haters, like myself, and I'd throw many a dollar their way for their efforts.

(Acknowledging that I'm a Valley outsider and my opinion will probably be ammo for the gym gumby haters.)

Denton, that is an interesting take.  You want someone else to put up an easy, well protected route for you and you are willing to pay them for it.  This already exists, you know- it's called a climbing gym and your monthly dues pay for a route setter to set routes for you to climb.  Yosemite Valley and Half Dome are not a climbing gym.  There are no route setters.  There are folks that climb up a previously unclimbed section of rock and protect it as they see fit - within the confines of the law and usually with an understanding of the history of the area.  Some routes are well protected by natural gear or bolts, some are super run out, and everything in between. 

One of the cool things about climbing is that you can climb your own first ascents.  Nothing is stopping you.  Instead of paying someone to "set" a route for you, why not invest in yourself by gaining experience, acquiring the right gear (maybe a hand drill), do your research on the history of an area, find some unclimbed rock, and make your way up the cliff.  Then you get to decide exactly how to equip your route.  Just be prepared for some gym noob to whine that you didn't put in enough bolts because of your ego while on the same day some old skool trad dad whines that you put in too many bolts because you are a chicken, lol.  

M Awrote:

Simple, you just add the death slabs and double the length from there:

(Ignore the phone photo of a screenshot of Google earth, it'll totally work)

An instant modern classic that is definitely a good alternative to snake dike. 

The left red line is approximately "North Buttress" (10d R), the right red line starts approximately where RNWF starts, and then branches out to meet up with the North Buttress (would probably be at least 10d). 

There is probably space left of snake dike for more bolted slab climbs, if the goal is a more bolted alternative to Snake Dike. Without the dike it would probably be harder (i.e. at least 5.10), but you can hand drill as many bolts as you want without (as much) internet furry. 

Ti ckwrote:

While your first idea might not work, your approach of “how do i make a sick climb to take the pressure off snake dike” is quite beautiful. I encourage you to keep brainstorming ideas.

certainly a much more stylish approach than retrobolting someone else’s climb

People talked about putting up a new slab route to the side of Snake Dike. Would probably be a little harder, maybe 5.8 or 5.9, but with modern sport bolting it would definitely become super popular. 

I had dreams of maybe one day putting up such a route, but my health has deteriorated significantly and it is unclear to what degree I will be able to return to climbing if at all. Would love to see someone do it. I like the Mikey Schaefer approach of leading on rivets and then replacing them with bolts. Think that approach would work really well with hand drilling for the Snake Dike Traffic Diverter route. 

P.s. I like to give working titles for routes I've imagined or am working on, and I rather like "A Short Hike" for this one. Sometimes the working title becomes the route name, usually doesn't, I'd love for someone to put up A Short Hike. 

Do it, somebody. 

bob steedwrote:

This already exists, you know- it's called a climbing gym and your monthly dues pay for a route setter to set routes for you to climb.

The key thing is that topping out at Mission Cliffs doesn't put me on top of Half Dome. I think that a lot of modern climbers (at least myself) don't climb Snake Dike for Snake Dike. We climb Snake Dike to top out Half Dome without having to deal with the cable permits and whatnot.

And yes, you are completely right that the beauty of climbing is that anyone with the skills can bolt cool new lines for all to enjoy. I do not have the skills nor the time so all I am doing is griping about it online. But that's what Mountain Project is for, right?

The reg route on HD is pretty easy... it's just long.  But it can be done in 1/2 day by a competent party and avoids the crowds (until the descent at least). 

Denton Liuwrote:

At the risk of getting flamed to hell, I want to input a perspective that I feel has been missing in the discussions about retrobolting SD. When I climbed it (followed, admittedly, because it was too scary to lead for me), I didn't care too much for the history of the route or the runouts. I just wanted a moderate way to get up Half Dome without having to worry about permit lotteries or anything like that. It's just a bit of a shame that the obvious way up was claimed and spicy-bolted decades I was even alive.

If someone were to bolt a less spicy moderate line up Half Dome, it would be much appreciated by slab haters, like myself, and I'd throw many a dollar their way for their efforts.

(Acknowledging that I'm a Valley outsider and my opinion will probably be ammo for the gym gumby haters.)

So like, the cables route? You've got snake dike, a heads-up traditional climb that takes some skill, experience, and a cool head to lead; and the cables route, which just about anyone with some fitness can do. The very thing you don't like about the cables route is what you're asking for snake dike or another route to become. Easily accessible + desirable = popular = overcrowded = permit system. 

Denton Liuwrote:

The key thing is that topping out at Mission Cliffs doesn't put me on top of Half Dome. I think that a lot of modern climbers (at least myself) don't climb Snake Dike for Snake Dike. We climb Snake Dike to top out Half Dome without having to deal with the cable permits and whatnot.

And yes, you are completely right that the beauty of climbing is that anyone with the skills can bolt cool new lines for all to enjoy. I do not have the skills nor the time so all I am doing is griping about it online. But that's what Mountain Project is for, right?

Sounds like you aren't willing to pay the price of admission, sir. To me, thats what makes an objective worth doing, i.e. having to push yourself to accomplish a goal.

Denton Liuwrote:

At the risk of getting flamed to hell, I want to input a perspective that I feel has been missing in the discussions about retrobolting SD. When I climbed it (followed, admittedly, because it was too scary to lead for me), I didn't care too much for the history of the route or the runouts. I just wanted a moderate way to get up Half Dome without having to worry about permit lotteries or anything like that. It's just a bit of a shame that the obvious way up was claimed and spicy-bolted decades I was even alive.

If someone were to bolt a less spicy moderate line up Half Dome, it would be much appreciated by slab haters, like myself, and I'd throw many a dollar their way for their efforts.

(Acknowledging that I'm a Valley outsider and my opinion will probably be ammo for the gym gumby haters.)

Denton, why not just head to the valley in mid october when the cables go down and there's no permit system anymore? You generally get at least a month of time where the hike is snow-free and no permit is necessary, and it's right during what's typically the best stretch of weather for climbing in the valley each year.

Daniel Joderwrote:

Casting about for other reasonably easy and safe options for the Half-Dome-aspiring moderate climber...

Just me looking at the photo... anyone ever do any of these lines? The middle one looks like it could be trad the whole way and seems the most natural and aesthetic to me.

The one on the left might require some Sloan bolts here and there to make it safe. The one on the right? Who knows. Could be too hard for a "moderate"???

Anyone here ever climb, or even consider climbing, that slightly curving line up from the middle arrow? Apparently, the right arrow, or just right of the right arrow, is a 5.10d line that is very rarely done.

And I guess I’m ignorant about current Half Dome permit policy. I understood that applied to just the cable route. So, if you went up to climb to the left or right of the cables during the season you would need a permit? I guess they must have a ranger at a checkpoint up there now?

Good suggestion to go climb this side on a good weather day in October when the cables are down.  

It’s late and I much prefer colorful Mountain Project responses to what Google would produce… and I’m lazy.

EDIT: OK, I did get off my lazy fingers and Googled it. Apparently, a permit is needed for getting up the sub-dome.