Ugly Hardware Only

I snapped the head off a 3/8" plated steel 5-piece this weekend with a 6" wrench. 25 year-old bolt in dolomite with a stainless hanger and a bunch of silicon caulk under the hanger. Blegh.

Some of the other bolts removed the same day.

This looks to be my favorite crag Tal, is that at North Table?? What an install!! One time I ran into one of those in salt lake, but they made sure to make a mountain of glue to meet up with the bolt.

looks like they were about an inch short. We have all been there..........

Seems like the crossover bolts have quite the learning curve for installation.

timothy fisher wrote:

Seems like the crossover bolts have quite the learning curve for installation.

step one: drill the hole deep enough. 

Cory N wrote:

This looks to be my favorite crag Tal, is that at North Table?? What an install!! One time I ran into one of those in salt lake, but they made sure to make a mountain of glue to meet up with the bolt.

Good eye! Thankfully was fixed shortly after found/identified

On my fix list. 

And these already fixed…

Pulled these off a nice route at Monitor Rock, CO yesterday.  The routes gonna be much better once it’s all re-equipped with ASCA hardware!

Old Cassin hanger vs Fixe ASCA hanger.

I wonder how strong these old Cassin hangers are?  They look like pop tops from an old Coors can up on the wall!

Jeff G wrote:

Old Cassin hanger vs Fixe ASCA hanger.

I've always wondered why they don't make hangers in both of these two orientations. Although the only time I really get annoyed with the "standard" orientation is when it is the first bolt on the route and it is really hard to stick clip because of where the hanger is, and if it was the facing the other direction it would be easier.

Bela VanderVoort wrote:

I've always wondered why they don't make hangers in both of these two orientations. Although the only time I really get annoyed with the "standard" orientation is when it is the first bolt on the route and it is really hard to stick clip because of where the hanger is, and if it was the facing the other direction it would be easier.

A couple of companies have had this 'brilliant' idea and dropped them straight away, they are an utter pain tio tighten with a normal wrench.

Jim Titt wrote:

A couple of companies have had this 'brilliant' idea and dropped them straight away, they are an utter pain tio tighten with a normal wrench.

Can't you just hang upside down while installing them?

Or you could do it left-handed in the name of neuroplasticity.

Just pulled these off Red Dawn, a nice 5.11 at Monitor Rock CO.  Took very little effort to spin these out of the hole.  One of the bolts was quite bent and was all wonky in the hole when I spinned it.  I thought I had cross threaded the spinner attachment or something, but it was the bolt.

Replaced with new 1/2” Powers 5pc courtesy of the ASCA.  

Thanks for your hard work Jeff! I've seen bent wedge bolts before, my guess is that they were bent during initial placement by mis-directed hammer blows.

Ugly hardware - this is a good reminder to inspect permadraws! The edge on this steel carabiner was starting to get sharp, and the notching on the bolt end link can start to get pretty severe!

(we were replacing some heavily used permadraws on several routes at The Dungeon, Staunton State Park, Colorado)

That’s wild Greg! I haven’t seen a quicklink deformed like that yet. Thank for your sharing this photo. 

Does this count as terrible hardware ? Most creative rappel anchor I had today. 

^ Ugly Software. Needs its own thread (da-dump-ching!)

Loic Prst wrote:

Does this count as terrible hardware ? Most creative rappel anchor I had today. 

Clean up that tat! 

Dan D wrote:

Clean up that tat! 

Feel free my friend.