New and Experienced Climbers over 50 #43

Some friends left a note on my car this morning to drop by where they were climbing.  Really fun experience!  I remember this route from a few years ago as one of the few I had to bail on because I could not get past a lip on the route.  And it's 'only' a 5.8 She did such a great job, and now I'd like to go back.  

Bacon Flake  5.8

I also wanted to go back and try to get a more accurate shot of Deja Vu.  From a distance this is the first thing you see. What's not  to love?

Here's the rock itself...

Also, Nick, we have holds!  Some are more imaginary, some you can actually see.   (But your Gunks route looks really fun.)

Somewhere in Sleepy Hollow  

Also, I'm trying to upgrade all my safety stuff.  Things keep changing.  Yesterday when I was out on a hike, a couple miles from my car, temps closing on 90 degrees, I discovered that every drop of water had leaked out of my 32 ounce bottle.  It felt REALLY dangerous in that heat.  Another thing to check every time. 

When my friends asked me to drop by their crag this morning, my phone was down to 5% charge.  My phone not only does phone things, it also runs my insulin, Garmin, everything... and I don't have an independent backup charger.  I have to see what Amazon has for iPhones.    

Where my insulin and supplies are concerned, I now need 'backups for my backups'.  Everything fails, at the wrong time, including the backups.  That must be some kind of law of science.  I'm now going back and doubling everything I would use in an emergency, in my car, backpack, house.   

I mostly only wore my Joe brown for ice climbing. 

Didn't hurt that they looked like Fires.  When I finally got a pair of Fires I thought my old Calma's actually climbed better...  Calmas with karate pants with the cuffs taped  for better visibility of the feets.

We went for a hike to look at a beautiful crag that we found while skiing. 

The golden upper part is just above Etienne. It’s a six mile hike to the base and perfect compact granite. It’s so pretty back there that we only want to climb it clean. I think I found a few good possibilities. Or maybe we won’t succeed. Either way, it’s good adventure!  Next time, we’ll pack a techy rack, a skinny cord, and see how it goes. 

Sierra Beauty!

Cool little boulders. 

Cheers!

Does anyone have any opinions for Scarpa Instinct Lace Ups?

Thinking to get a stiffer shoe for thin edges and crack?

Li Huwrote:

Does anyone have any opinions for Scarpa Instinct Lace Ups?

Thinking to get a stiffer shoe for thin edges and crack?

If it's just for indoor, that makes sense. If outdoor then I would go with the generator.

Jan Mcwrote:

Photolith has always been fascinating.  How do you get to the next smallest etch size?  There are alternatives to ASML in the works so they need that monopoly to recoup their investment now.  Here is where that technology is heading next.

• Free-Electron X-Ray Lasers (FEL): U.S.-backed startups (like xLight) are developing lithography tools driven by compact particle accelerators to produce wavelengths as short as 2nm. This aims to replace the laser-produced plasma used in standard EUV systems.
• Nanoimprint Lithography (NIL): Instead of projecting light, this mechanical process stamps the circuit pattern directly onto the wafer (similar to a printing press). Companies like Canon are scaling this technology to print 5nm and 2nm processes, offering a cheaper, power-efficient alternative to EUV.

Reducing 2-D feature sizes is near the end of the road though so it will be interesting to see where the industry goes after that. Yeah there's stuff like 3D stacking but the power density issues are getting gnarly.

philip bonewrote:

Beautiful line!

It's a wonderfull line. My buddy and I were very thrilled with the experience. We moved from there to another mini-project. It is situated on a block which parts a waterfall. Falling water surrounded us while refamiliarizing with small holds on a steep face. 

Last year, fall.

philip bonewrote:

Last year, fall.

You have found beautiful stone to climb! 

Stump is gone and the landing is prime for tomorrow where I hope to not use it!

My plan for tomorrow:

Wake up at 3:45, getting me to the boulder by about 5:45am as the sun rises. 

Warm up on flash board. TR rehearse until dialed.

Send

Home by 10 to try to get tickets to Phoebe Bridgers in San Francisco for my daughters and I to go.

A few random shots from the last couple weeks. Beginning to feel like summer now. For reals...

Todd Berlierwrote:

If it's just for indoor, that makes sense. If outdoor then I would go with the generator.

Thanks

Emil Briggswrote:

Reducing 2-D feature sizes is near the end of the road though so it will be interesting to see where the industry goes after that. Yeah there's stuff like 3D stacking but the power density issues are getting gnarly.

Huawei just proved out folded logic, but there will be heat and other issues. Likely 5-7nm with equivalent of 1.4nm to reduce failure rates? Just guessing …

Ward Smithwrote:

I’ve posted this before, but me on Shockley’s Ceiling with a pony tail and a rack of hexes and stoppers, circa 1978.  

Back when it was 5.5!  Some holds must have broke, or something…….

Well that all worked out!

Left the house at 4:15am (extra half an hour of sleep since light rain was in the forecast for 4 o'clock hour). Got to boulder at 6am and the top was soaking wet. Toilet paper and a little chalk to dry the holds. Spent about 20 minutes getting the top dialed. Changed my beta a lot. Once the scariness of the moment is there I tend to alter beta to maybe harder moves so that they are more secure. 

After rehearsing, did it first go!

The Lyon's Share V7⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Name is from Lyon's canyon, common wordplay phrase, and because the location was shared to me by a local pro.

Back to the car by 8am, then remembered I left my sandwich in a Ziploc and a ton of tic marks on the boulder, so I ran back to the boulder! Made it home with 10 minutes to spare for getting tickets:

Now, I'm prepping an afternoon on the paddle boards (as is tradition for the kids last day of school to go to Folsom Lake) with my daughters and all their friends to play until I go get everyone pizza.

Feeling very grateful for the life I have today. 🙏to all!

Edit for grammar 

Some pics from hike today at Bonticou Crag.

Mythos 5 and Fable 5 are now out! About double the cost of Opus 4,8! 

Todd Berlierwrote:

A propos of nothing, when Phoebe Bridgers, Lucy Dacus, and Julienne Baker got together and toured as Boy Genius, my daughter Sarah was their keyboardist.