Half Dome's Snake Dike is being retrobolted - get involved!

Erik Sloan is the type of person who acts like he owns the rock and that his vision for it is the only way it should be. He evades rational debate or even acknowledging any points he disagrees with. He is dogmatic, unreasonable, and should not be trusted with these decisions even if he means well and does a few nice things for the community. He should really step down from his self-appointed position and let more reasonable people figure out this (kinda) gray area situation. woot woot?

I'm let down there was no woot woot

What The actual F is the world coming to?

Erik has never been one to pay any heed to criticism.

I learned to just avoid him, and thoughts of him. Wrestling with a pig in shit sorta deal. He sure has a punchable face though.

I hope people aren't actually sending him money to continue his atrocities. 

I was excited to climb Snake Dike one day, though a bit nervous based on the route finding errors others have had in the run out. If it is bolted like a sport climb, I’m no longer excited to climb it. It feels like I’ll never actually get to climb Snake Dike. 

Sweet Jeebus what an atrocity.

Erik Sloan you have gone full Trump-level narcissist publicity hound here. You simply relish people talking about you and your latest atrocity, because all publicity is good for you right? Book sales must be slow.

Adding bolts to an already crowded route will just degrade the quality further and faster, more exploitation by the author of a select guide focusing people on the same routes over and over for his own profit.

Stay Classy Erik...

10/10

Yukon Cornelius wrote:

10/10

You think this all a troll? Go back and read Matt’s post on the first page: https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/message/203128213 

Bob Steed and I climbed it last month, some if not all bolts needed to be replaced although I think the existing bolts were safe enough at the time. I think the existing bolts could have been removed and the 3/8" holes reused. This was my first time on the route and we found more gear placements than I thought we would.

Duncan Domingue wrote:

Bob, I would like to donate to those folks who are doing this work, whether it's hardware, or money for their time and effort. If they're receptive to this, send me a private message through Mountain Project.

Same here, Bob Steed - for Snake Dike or other projects

While the ASCA sometimes donates bolts for old hardware replacement, that of course does not cover everything.

Woot boy has been comfortizing Yosemite-Land for a long time. Because it’s more than just “convenience”—in Yosemite-Land you have a right to always feel comfortable.

Years ago, Erik used come-alongs, shovels, etc., to make a retaining wall for a large comfortable flat place to bivy at the base of Zenyatta. Similarly, he was cited for trundling rocks off el cap tree ledge when he was trying to comfortize that. But those dang runouts can still make a visitor to Erik’s Yosemite-Land (and buyer of his guide book) feel downright un-comfortable. So now he’s placing more comfort bolts and trying to get comfort-seeking climbers to pay for them; it’s a win-win, or woot-woot I suppose.

I've climbed the first pitch twice (once via each variation). I followed both times, but still think I can weigh in that these bolts are definitely going to change the experience. Moving unhindered over that first pitch and trusting your feet until you get to the roof is a big part of the adventure after the long approach. Clipping (or cleaning) 4 bolts is an unfortunate start to a classic long route. Even the Pitch 2/3 transition where the most recent accident occurred is a classic friction pitch that has a bolt to protect (albeit with some swing potential). The real concern there is getting off route and following the dike up and right instead of going left after clipping that bolt and down climbing a move or two. Where a few bolts are potentially needed are during the long runouts above pitches 2/3. I think this is where Eric Beck was advocating for a handful of bolts. That being said, admittedly, asking the FA for his opinion of adding some bolts and then crying foul when some bolts are added is hypocritical. I just don't think this is where the bolts are needed.

Edit to add: We did sling the tree on the alternate 1st pitch variation for full transparency.

hangontightly letgolightly wrote:

I've climbed the first pitch twice (once via each variation). I followed both times, but still think I can weigh in that these bolts are definitely going to change the experience. Moving unhindered over that first pitch and trusting your feet until you get to the roof is a big part of the adventure after the long approach. Clipping (or cleaning) 4 bolts is an unfortunate start to a classic long route. Even the Pitch 2/3 transition where the most recent accident occurred is a classic friction pitch that has a bolt to protect (albeit with some swing potential). The real concern there is getting off route and following the dike up and right instead of going left after clipping that bolt and down climbing a move or two. Where a few bolts are potentially needed are during the long runouts above pitches 2/3. I think this is where Eric Beck was advocating for a handful of bolts. That being said, admittedly, asking the FA for his opinion of adding some bolts and then crying foul when some bolts are added is hypocritical. I just don't think this is where the bolts are needed.

Edit to add: We did sling the tree on the alternate 1st pitch variation for full transparency.

The fact of the matter is that Sloan is using the supposed approval of the FA to apparently sport bolt the most popular start to the route.

Everyone knows that Eric Beck would have been suggesting that one additional bolt per pitch in the upper sections was likely his intent.

Sloan is adding sport bolt ladders to a traditionally exciting start and that excitement is the whole damn reason to climb Snake Hike.

After the excitement of the runouts, you don't really have much of an achievement to hang your hat on, imo. He just thinks it will sell more of his guides.

There's a Via Ferratta up the other side if you want to "bag" a summit.

I think your retrobolters/bolt choppers should really coordinate for the more efficient rebolting/chopping 

Use the same fixed rope
Person on the top, aka the top, would bolt
Person on the bottom, aka the bottom, would chop/pull out
Same rope, double the fun

The Hollywood figured this out years ago, it is time for the climbers to update their SOP

John Tuttle wrote:

Everyone knows that Eric Beck would have been suggesting that one additional bolt per pitch in the upper sections was likely his intent.

This was explicitly stated by EB, IIRC.

Sloan is adding sport bolt ladders to a traditionally exciting start and that excitement is the whole damn reason to climb Snake Hike.

The "exciting" start can of course be skipped by taking the recently bolted start, as it's barely more difficult than Tenaya Peak. Took the wifey up SD a month ago (pre-bolts) and did the alternate start (slung the tree to mitigate her chance at a potential swing). She's a hospital exec who occasionally throws a weight around in our garage, climbs 0-3 pitches of 5.4-5.5 per year. She went up the section that now has 6 bolts with zero issue. She's a freaking non-climber. If people want to do the first pitch "safely," they are more than welcome to sew up the original start (or hell, french free it, IDC) as there's gear every foot, if you want it. 

As noted above and by many others, there's rational argument for EB approving 1 extra bolt/pitch (2 tops) on the dike pitches. The traverse pitch could be argued for a single extra bolt but that's pretty debatable. Afraid this one is 100% bringing the (tuning) forks out to play...

This would be a great time to release an alternative guidebook that people can support.... 

I will be heading up on the 17th to fix what this fool has done, and to upgrade the rest of the hardware on the route, to modern standards.

Y'all have a lot of time on your hands to be arguing over, let alone hiking out to chop bolts on, an over-crowded 5.7.

Luke Lalor wrote:

Y'all have a lot of time on your hands to be arguing over, let alone hiking out to chop bolts on, an over-crowded 5.7.

Yerp, I guess history and the future of our little pastime just means nothing to some.

I mean, why ropes, cams and nuts? Why leading a rock climb?

Just via ferratta everything,....  

This makes me sad. 

Just please, whoever takes it upon themselves to chop, don’t make it worse. Do a good, competent job. Patching please, no caveman aggro smashing or ugly hatchet jobs..