Lofoten, Norway - Vestpillaren Direct 5.10+, how soft vs. sandbagged?

Hi everyone,

A friend and I are looking to venture out to Lofoten (Norway) for some climbing and stunning scenary.  It's hard to think about going there without trying out Vestipillaren Direct, one of the premier climbs of the area.  I'm no novice to trad, but will say 5.10 is at the top of my general range, so I want to consider this 1300' clearly.

I'm used to northeastern US climbing: the Gunks (most of my experience), the Adirondacks, Rumney, New river gorge, etc. Its my understanding that the Gunks at-least has fairly old and sandbagged grading. Can anyone speak to how the climbing feels at Lofoten, especially this route, compares to the areas I've mentioned above in difficulty? 

Thanks!

-Brett

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106848943/vestpillaren-direct

It's mostly easier climbing. The 10+ bit was short and I think you could probably pull through it on gear if needed.  Felt soft for someone who learned to climb in Yosemite, but YMMV if you hate cracks. 

A really lovely route and very worth going.

Can't speak specifically to the climb, but as somone who has climbed all over the world, you will generally be OK anyplace based on your background of climbing areas for Trad.

Good luck brother and safe climbing.

I have climbed it.  I think grades are accurate/fair, neither sandbagged or soft.  The crux 10+ is short, 1-2 moves that aren't bad, but I climb that style a lot. I thought the wide 10c crack higher was harder, more physical and you are more tired then. 

Coming from the East Coast, I suspect efficient multi pitch logistics might be trickier than the climbing move difficulty. It takes time, we spent a couple hours waiting for parties to clear above us, then ran out of water up high.  Was happy to get back to the car and get a drink, sometime after midnight.

Edit: it is one of the most beautiful climbs I have ever done, anywhere.  We got it on a sunny perfect day, like the pictures.  Go do it. Good luck. 

And when you get back down you can walk over and soak your feet in the ocean while the sun shines at midnight. Priceless!