Mountain Project Logo

Accessibility and campusability of Obed and Clear Creek?

Original Post
Caleb McDonald · · Stoney Point, CA · Joined Feb 2020 · Points: 0

Never been and trying to find projects that suit me after breaking my back a year and a half ago. No function below the waist but maximum overdrive and some of the roofs y'all got out there are pretty enticing. How heinous a trek would it be for me to get back there in a wheelchair/scooting on my butt? Itching to campus on a roof. 

Just trying to wrap my mind around some of the obstacles as now I've learned the real crux isn't the climb but the approach for most the things I want to tackle. 

MattH · · CO mostly · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 1,406

Southeast sandstone might be the move, but I recall the hike into most of the Obed roofs being kind of hands-on (eg: south clear, Y-12, Tierrany) and not super chill even traversing the base. 

Here's a few random SE sandstone ideas that would be much easier to access and plenty campusable:

  • Bob Marley at the RRG has a collection of super overhung jug haul 5.12s. The cruxes might be tricky to campus but they all offer a lot of feasible movement straight from the ground up to the crux
  • The Gill Roof (Bouldering) in Southern Illinois is almost certainly the easiest-to-access campusable roof in the country. 30s flat trail from the parking lot. There's a few other accessible roofs in the area that would also be worth consideration (the Graveyard's Warm Up Wall, the bouldering wall at Cedar Bluff, etc) each with several worthy problems to check out. 
  • The Cumberland Boulders in TN have a largely smooth trail from what I recall and a few boulders that I know have been campused (eg: 7-11) and a few others that I suspect are feasible).
Caleb McDonald · · Stoney Point, CA · Joined Feb 2020 · Points: 0

Thanks for the info, these are exactly what I'm looking for. RRG has been high on my list even before I broke my back so maybe I make that the first stop. Bob Marley looks primo as do your other recommendations 

Emma Axelson · · Atlanta · Joined May 2023 · Points: 5

It would be hard. You can rappel into Y-12 (there's a ladder and also a rappel anchor). South Clear is a steep hike descent and it's quite rocky all along the base. Getting into Tieranny also requires a steep, hands-on descent. You could probably rappel off a tree. Lilly Bluff might be ok. The trail is steep but short and fairly well groomed, and one of the big roofs (heresy etc) is very close to the top of the trail. The roof on heresy is certainly campusable, but the business is on the face. 

JD Borgeson · · Little Rock, AR · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 3,538

To tack on, Peter's branch in MO has very long roof boulder problems.  They tend to grade them with route grades.  Agree with the others, Obed crags may be a bit challenging to access.  You could possibly access the Rasputin ledge, and it has some great routes for campusing.  Little River Canyon may be worth looking into as well.

Caleb McDonald · · Stoney Point, CA · Joined Feb 2020 · Points: 0

Oh dude I gotta go hit up Peters Branch. This looks so rad thanks for the recommendation. Way closer to me too. Any potential access tips?

Rasputin's ledge was the place that initially caught my eye. Scalded Dog and Rasputin both looked super. I've been thinking of putting myself in my haulbag if I gotta rap anything to protect my legs from getting banged up. 

Are there guidebooks for either of these areas? Collecting them has become a hobby in and of itself

Emma Axelson · · Atlanta · Joined May 2023 · Points: 5
Caleb McDonaldwrote:Are there guidebooks for either of these areas? Collecting them has become a hobby in and of itself

There is a good guidebook for the Obed.

https://www.rockandsnow.com/100467/the-obed-2nd-edition/

Do you plan to leave a fixed line and ascend back out? It's ~110 feet to the top of cliff at rasputin (note guidebook/mp guidance on rope length)

JD Borgeson · · Little Rock, AR · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 3,538

I believe this guidebook has peter's branch: https://climbsource.com/products/southwest-missouri-bouldering-guide-book?srsltid=AfmBOorGaKbClEOO49bsBllRyL2Q5XaAMNyQnCVRLBNoZ-7JnkjYTsvc

I have not been myself, but really want to.  Living in Arkansas, it is hard to commit to travelling to Missouri to climb with all the great stuff we have here in AR.  But those roofs look dreamy.

If nearer to Missouri/Arkansas, you may look into Jackson falls in Southern Illinois.  I think they have some roofs.  There's also the goat cave at horseshoe canyon ranch in AR.

JC D · · Salt Lake · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 50

Rasputin ledge hike is kind of a steep descent and then the base is fairly rocky, unsure if it is the best option for this scenario. 

Jackson fall roofs are quite short and punchy and the options are far more limited than Obed, but the approach trail is much more suited for a wheel chair, you can even be lowered into the canyon.

I do believe one can drive down to Muir Valley at the Red with special permission, you might be able to campus some of the roofs at Solarium with minimal approach.  Or perhaps you can reach out to RRGCC and ask if you can drive up to Drive-by, there are some roofs there as well.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Midwest
Post a Reply to "Accessibility and campusability of Obed and Cle…"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community! It's FREE

Already have an account? Login to close this notice.