New and Experienced Climbers over 50 #43

It’s common where I live for desert coyotes to try and lure dogs out with yips and barks. Etienne is smart and sticks to my side when he hears the song of the yotes. 

We’ve had a lone female wolf who traveled from Plumas county moving up and down our valley. Fish and wildlife call her a disperser and claim she is looking for a mate to start a new pack. There is satellite tracking on fish and wildlife’s site and she’s been through our neighborhood. She is tracked via a collar placed when captured previously. 

We live just below the center of the orange, the wolf hung around here for several days before moving on. We were hoping that Etienne would start a pack with her. LOL

A den with some pups that Etienne found a few years ago. We snapped a few photos and let them be, I returned a few hours later to check on them but they had moved on. 

It has been beautiful and we’ve been enjoying springtime in the Sierra. 

Some pics from today's hike.

You wouldn’t believe the number of people I’ve seen struggle at the start of this problem. I judge it as being a whole grade less than what it’s supposed to be. I’ve been elegantly (IMMHO) all the boulders I do lately. It’s good extra training and saves the knees from shock.

https://youtube.com/shorts/r27X5CQklbI?si=CxoaaD7YZSZPngI_

 Guy, that looks like a cool climb. 

BINTD when I was a full time photographer I had a pretty good selection of fast glass but never the kind of glass that serious birders and wildlife photographers typically use..  My Glass is all whittled down to a single 70-200mm f.28 and a 24-85 variable. Seems to be all I Really need for horse events as long as my legs still work..  Certainly some bigger glass would be nice but I can do the job with what I have.   

This eagle rook was between our campsite and the cliff so we passed it twice a day. My 200mm lens was pathetically inadequate for the task 

but took a nice sunset

Bigger glass would have been nice for this shot from the rim at Thacher.

I like how this shot shows scale  but would have liked the option to also zoom in. 

 Last winter I tried Rocky Talkies for the first time on this nasty day at Cannon.

I liked them a lot. Super easy hassle free communication. 

Being a slow learner in life I decided to save a buck and buy Midlands for a bit less than Half the price. 

The midlands are bulkier than Rocky Talkies, don't have a really secure attachment point and its much easier to accidently bump your settings. I could see a future where I spring for Rocky talkies and prove once again that it costs a lot more money to cut corners than it does to do it right the first time..

That being said the Midlands worked well  except for that time on Green wall

Where Isa Bumped her settings and did not hear me tell her that the welded micro cams were Not mine... naturally she expended a lot of time and effort trying to clean them and cursing me for being an idiot..  That could also have been alleviated by  RTFM and actually understanding how the radios work and how to get them back to the proper setting. .  that did seem to be a non issue with the Rocky Talkies. All 3 days at Seneca it was windy and the radio communication made everything much easier.

 I AM sold for multi pitch and back country skiing and hiking.

Now to waste more money on accessories like chest pouches to carry the Midlands and hopefully not bump the buttons and likely hand sets in the future... 

The radios were also really usefull at Deer Leap 

where there is lots of wind and road noise even though it's single pitch.

The Body Shop was the first gym I ever climbed in. Maybe around 1990? Nice for full on winter conditions, to keep in shape. Before climbing gyms came around, I usually needed a couple of weeks in spring, to tune up again, in order to get my mojo working. Come to think of it, I actually show up there (in the Body Shop) in a photo from Dale Goddard's book, standing off to one side while he demonstrates " A good twist-lock". I'm the Forest Gump of climbing! I'd post up a screenshot, but I guess I'm not supposed to. 

If the weather was good enough, I much preferred bouldering outdoors. This was before crash pads and basically none of my climbing companions wanted to boulder, so I would do it alone, when I couldn't find a partner. I would often escape for a few hours, or an afternoon, during the week (the life of a graduate student!). Weekends it was easy to find partners. Probably my favorite area was the bench full of quartzite boulders above Ogden. I almost never saw other climbers there and scurried up dozens of different lines. A few had previous names, e.g. "Patriot's Crack", although most of what I did was just shit I made up. I didn't feel any need to claim first ascents, and maybe I didn't do any, either. Certainly nothing important, anyways.  Some of the boulders were marked with strange indications. This was allegedly a grading system developed by the young Lowe brothers, used to register their accomplishments, back in prehistoric times Sometimes I would train circuits, and other times I would try new stuff. I had a friend (Mike P.: a climber) who lived at the base, but he worked during the week, so I would often stop by his house when I was done, just as he was getting off from work. Then back to SLC to study mathematics! 

Post the screenshot!  

Fun times.

Tim Brattenwrote:

The Body Shop was the first gym I ever climbed in. Maybe around 1990? Nice for full on winter conditions, to keep in shape. Before climbing gyms came around, I usually needed a couple of weeks in spring, to tune up again, in order to get my mojo working. Come to think of it, I actually show up there (in the Body Shop) in a photo from Dale Goddard's book, standing off to one side while he demonstrates " A good twist-lock". I'm the Forest Gump of climbing! I'd post up a screenshot, but I guess I'm not supposed to. 

If the weather was good enough, I much preferred bouldering outdoors. This was before crash pads and basically none of my climbing companions wanted to boulder, so I would do it alone, when I couldn't find a partner. I would often escape for a few hours, or an afternoon, during the week (the life of a graduate student!). Weekends it was easy to find partners. Probably my favorite area was the bench full of quartzite boulders above Ogden. I basically never saw other climbers there and scurried up dozens of different lines. A few had previous names, e.g. "Patriot's Crack", although most of what I did was just shit I made up. Although I didn't feel any need to claim first ascents, and maybe I didn't do any, either. Certainly nothing important, anyways.  Some of the boulders were marked with strange indications. This was allegedly a grading system developed by the young Lowe brothers, used to register their accomplishments, back in prehistoric times Sometimes I would train circuits, and other times I would try new stuff. I had a friend (Mike P.: a climber) who lived at the base, but he worked during the week, so I would often stop by his house when I was done, just as he was getting off from work. Then back to SLC to study mathematics! 

I enjoyed this story.

Did you ever know/ climb with the climber/mathematician Bob Palais? I think he moved to SLC from the SF Bay Area around that time.

Guy, I also enjoyed your story about Bob Kamps.

In fact, there are a lot of good stories shared here, too many to name. Keep ‘em coming!

Edited to say: select excepts from copyrighted material is allowable under fair use laws. I think it would be fine but I’m not a lawyer!

The first V4 of my 68th year: my boulder, my grade! Man, oh man, these old problems are costing me some work. On the less steep part near the top I'm stopping to scrape and blow lichens off a few holds. I'd already cleaned a little higher, traversing around with a brush, but then lichens fell onto holds lower down. I guess I should take a rope, a little gear and clean things up good. The arete to the right is a seldom done, somewhat scary V7, and the face up the middle is a stout V5. I'm sure no one has done these two boulders for years and considering all the lichens, I doubt anyone's gonna be doing them any time soon, either. 

phylp phylpwrote:

Did you ever know/ climb with the climber/mathematician Bob Palais? I think he moved to SLC from the SF Bay Area around that time.

Ran into Bob a few months ago (SLCA fundraiser).  

Another math guy climber we had here was Nat Smale (also at the U of U).  Moved back to the east bay a few years ago.  

Edit to add:  touched the holds on Nat's traverse at Mortar Rock a bunch of years ago.  Way way way above my pay grade.  Went there with Hardman Knott from the ol' wreck climbing daze.  Had a nice bay area posse of climbing friends for my back then frequent business trips to the area.  Always fun.  Brutus of Wyde, Nurse Ratchet, HK, Melissa, Tom Lambert and Theresa Ho, Inez (who I ran into randomly in the Dolomites in 2006).  Ahhh...good memories.

I guess this is my last post for the day. phylp phylp: I knew that Bob Palais came to the department (as a research assistant? or something like that?) towards the end of my time as a graduate student, but he was in a totally different area from me, I was probably working on my thesis, and I'm pretty sure I never even ran into him. I had a regular crew of climbing partners, including my roommate Jose Pereyra, and none of us really crossed paths with Palais. 

Screenshot of the Body Shop: Forest Gump and Dale Goddard

 

Daniel Shivelywrote:

It’s common where I live for desert coyotes to try and lure dogs out with yips and barks. Etienne is smart and sticks to my side when he hears the song of the yotes. 

We’ve had a lone female wolf who traveled from Plumas county moving up and down our valley. Fish and wildlife call her a disperser and claim she is looking for a mate to start a new pack. There is satellite tracking on fish and wildlife’s site and she’s been through our neighborhood. She is tracked via a collar placed when captured previously. 

We live just below the center of the orange, the wolf hung around here for several days before moving on. We were hoping that Etienne would start a pack with her. LOL

A den with some pups that Etienne found a few years ago. We snapped a few photos and let them be, I returned a few hours later to check on them but they had moved on. 

It has been beautiful and we’ve been enjoying springtime in the Sierra. 

Do you Todd Bibler? I'm pretty sure he live(s or d) there. In 2004ish I lived out of my pickup for 2 months at the Pit and he and I hiked on Mt. Tom together. We didn't summit but enjoyed spending the day with him. We worked together at BD. 

Todd Berlierwrote:

Do you Todd Bibler? I'm pretty sure he live(s or d) there. In 2004ish I lived out of my pickup for 2 months at the Pit and he and I hiked on Mt. Tom together. We didn't summit but enjoyed spending the day with him. We worked together at BD. 

I wouldn’t say that I know Todd, but I have had a few great conversations with him about climbing and flying. The last time I saw him was circuiting at the Buttermilk and he was living in Wilkerson south of Bishop. A good person with much mountain knowledge. 

I have lived here since 2000, I wonder if we have crossed paths?

Daniel Shivelywrote:

I wouldn’t say that I know Todd, but I have had a few great conversations with him about climbing and flying. The last time I saw him was circuiting at the Buttermilk and he was living in Wilkerson south of Bishop. A good person with much mountain knowledge. 

I have lived here since 2000, I wonder if we have crossed paths?

I don't know if we've met! I don't recognize your name, but I'm shit with names! Ive been bouldering in Buttermilks a bunch since the early 00s--back when the only guide was a mini poster by Mick Ryan. In fact, I got to watch Tony Lamiche do the FA of the sit to the Mandala during the Petzl Roc Trip: I think that was the winter of 2003. All told maybe 3 months over a few trips. 

Lots on my to (may never) do list at the Buttermilks. 

Funny story: One morning in the Pit a guy was walking around asking if anyone was driving to Reno the next day and could give their friends a ride. I was psyched to split gas money and I had a flight home the next morning. He said his buddies would come to my site at the given time. Turned out his buddies were Dave Graham and Isaac Caldiero!

Todd Berlierwrote:

I don't know if we've met! I don't recognize your name, but I'm shit with names! Ive been bouldering in Buttermilks a bunch since the early 00s--back when the only guide was a mini poster by Mick Ryan. In fact, I got to watch Tony Lamiche do the FA of the sit to the Mandala during the Petzl Roc Trip: I think that was the winter of 2003. All told maybe 3 months over a few trips. 

Lots on my to (may never) do list at the Buttermilks. 

Funny story: One morning in the Pit a guy was walking around asking if anyone was driving to Reno the next day and could give their friends a ride. I was psyched to split gas money and I had a flight home the next morning. He said his buddies would come to my site at the given time. Turned out his buddies were Dave Graham and Isaac Caldiero!

I keep a pretty low profile. Lol Yeah, the early 2000’s were a fun time around Bishop. At one point we had 5 boulderers sharing our little house and we spent much time at the Buttermilk country. One of my friends, did an early ascent of Spectre not long after Dave Graham and Fred Nicole. He was working on that Mandala sit when Lamiche did it. Good times! It’s quite a different scene now but still a cool hang. Was the pit still free when you were there? Was the host named Jeff? Did you know Jimmy Symons? He built a potato cannon (spud gun) and things got pretty rowdy over there one New Year’s Eve. I can’t remember the exact year. LOL 

Cheers!

Daniel Shivelywrote:

I keep a pretty low profile. 

I didn't, lol. Hopefully since we never met, you didn't know of me...I was a boisterous person in my 20s!

Lol Yeah, the early 2000’s were a fun time around Bishop. At one point we had 5 boulderers sharing our little house and we spent much time at the Buttermilk country. One of my friends, did an early ascent of Spectre not long after Dave Graham and Fred Nicole. He was working on that Mandala sit when Lamiche did it. Good times! 

This resonates with me. After college I spent a ton of time in a sleeping bag on living room floors! When I had a place in SLC friends from Ohio and those I met at RRG and NRG would come thru and stay at our house: can't remember exactly numbers, but for a couple weeks we had tents set up in our front yard!

It’s quite a different scene now but still a cool hang. Was the pit still free when you were there? Was the host named Jeff? Did you know Jimmy Symons? He built a potato cannon (spud gun) and things got pretty rowdy over there one New Year’s Eve. I can’t remember the exact year. LOL 

Cheers!

I remember talk of a potato gun, but never witnessed it! I do remember my group had the sites at the base of the hill in the middle of the pit (yes it was still free, or they asked for donations, maybe). I remember when we were coming back from the milks to the pit, we would stop at Vons and take broken pallets for firewood and baked goods were set out there that were going to be thrown away that allowed us to stay longer, living as a cheap as we could. I ate so much ramen back then. I don't touch it, now. 

I don't remember the host of r Jimmy Symons. But usually there was a decent sized circulating crew of climbers from Salt Lake there so I hung out with them.

Thanks for the memories!

Todd Berlierwrote:

I didn't, lol. Hopefully since we never met, you didn't know of me...I was a boisterous person in my 20s!

This resonates with me. After college I spent a ton of time in a sleeping bag on living room floors! When I had a place in SLC friends from Ohio and those I met at RRG and NRG would come thru and stay at our house: can't remember exactly numbers, but for a couple weeks we had tents set up in our front yard!

I remember talk of a potato gun, but never witnessed it! I do remember my group had the sites at the base of the hill in the middle of the pit (yes it was still free, or they asked for donations, maybe). I remember when we were coming back from the milks to the pit, we would stop at Vons and take broken pallets for firewood and baked goods were set out there that were going to be thrown away that allowed us to stay longer, living as a cheap as we could. I ate so much ramen back then. I don't touch it, now. 

I don't remember the host of r Jimmy Symons. But usually there was a decent sized circulating crew of climbers from Salt Lake there so I hung out with them.

Thanks for the memories!

Thank you too! 

Climbing is fun!

Before gray hair and when crags dogs were still cool. 

Daniel Shivelywrote:

Thank you too! 

Climbing is fun!

That's all of it. Right there. 3 words. These photos bring back great memories:

Before gray hair and when crags dogs were still cool. 

Green Wall. Imho one of the harder V2s there. Could be a 4 elsewhere and. 1 in Yosemite, lol.

Edit: oops you're on the 6, correct? That like a quintessential milks problem hard AF, until you figure the sequence, then it feels right. I repeated those 2 winters ago and did the 6 first try and the 2 took me 3 goes.

Center Direct!!! Back in the early 00s I did that rig second try!!! After getting to the jug, my friend told me I had to go to the top. I get to the top and shout down, "how do I get down!" 

Three folks in unison, "the way you went up!" Reversing those moves the first time was scary AF. But, then I did SW arete same day and felt good on the down climb. 

I reeeeally want to do Magnetic North. Have you done it? How does it compare to Checkerboard? Any clue. Man I have sweaty palms!!!

Todd Berlierwrote:

That's all of it. Right there. 3 words. These photos bring back great memories:

Green Wall. Imho one of the harder V2s there. Could be a 4 elsewhere and. 1 in Yosemite, lol.

Edit: oops you're on the 6, correct? That like a quintessential milks problem hard AF, until you figure the sequence, then it feels right. I repeated those 2 winters ago and did the 6 first try and the 2 took me 3 goes.

Center Direct!!! Back in the early 00s I did that rig second try!!! After getting to the jug, my friend told me I had to go to the top. I get to the top and shout down, "how do I get down!" 

Three folks in unison, "the way you went up!" Reversing those moves the first time was scary AF. But, then I did SW arete same day and felt good on the down climb. 

I reeeeally want to do Magnetic North. Have you done it? How does it compare to Checkerboard? Any clue. Man I have sweaty palms!!!

I’m on the 2, great fun problem. Green wall center is a favorite too, a Bachar Classic. 

Yeah those tall boulders are cool!

Haven’t tried Magnetic North so don’t know. My projecting days have been replaced by familiar circuits. I’m wayyyy to addicted to road cycling and mountain days now and my legs are heavy and my arms are weak. So it goes. 

A gray hair ascent of the 2 from last winter. Lol

Denise showing me the beta. I bet she’s climbed this 100 times. 

Daniel Shivelywrote:

I’m wayyyy to addicted to road cycling and mountain days now and my legs are heavy and my arms are weak. So it goes. 

I resemble that remark.  Sarah and I do climb at the gym twice a week, but don't get outside as much as we would like.  

There is a lot of great riding from the house, so it is easy to get a ride in 3 or 4 times a week.

Randywrote:

I resemble that remark.  Sarah and I do climb at the gym twice a week, but don't get outside as much as we would like.  

There is a lot of great riding from the house, so it is easy to get a ride in 3 or 4 times a week.

That looks like some beautiful terrain! I bet those sporty gravel bikes are perfect and nimble for that single track. 

Have you ridden Tuolumne bike only day? It’s a real treat being in there with no auto traffic. Should be coming up in the next few weeks. It’s usually the day before the pass officially opens.