New and Experienced Climbers over 50 #43

Going sports climbing 💪 

Todd Berlierwrote:

Since we're posting photos of our old gear 🤣

This is circa 2003 and the first mass produced extra large crash pad. Inspired by a pad made by Moab hardman Eric Decaria, I saw on a trip the the Horn, in the Henry's. Which, btw, maybe one of the best unpublished crags in the country. I brought it to market when I worked for black diamond. 4 x 6' x 6", it was designed to double as a bed for the bed of a pick up. 

This is the first one made and I still use it. I need to patch some holes, and wash it and the OG suspension sucks, but I love it and it's saved my ankles quite a few times.

 Chouinard original spot pad, this was the original pad that took over bringing a piece of carpet to the boulders.  I wore out my first one because it was such a great cragging pack, especially on days that included sketchy starts or a few laps at the boulders on the way back to the car. I just had this one repaired this winter and it was outside this weekend as a third pad, great for supplemental padding on sharp edges and quick naps too!

M Mwrote:

 Chouinard original spot pad, this was the original pad that took over bringing a piece of carpet to the boulders.  I wore out my first one because it was such a great cragging pack, especially on days that included sketchy starts or a few laps at the boulders on the way back to the car. I just had this one repaired this winter and it was outside this weekend as a third pad, great for supplemental padding on sharp edges and quick naps too!

Black Diamond, not Chouinard, but that's amazing! I had one of those, too!

I think the small brand Kinneola had the very first, then BD, then Cordless, then Metolious, then everyone else. Cordless was the first real crash pad that defined and shaped the market. 

Todd Berlierwrote:

Black Diamond, not Chouinard, but that's amazing! I had one of those, too!

I think the small brand Kinneola had the very first, then BD, then Cordless, then Metolious, then everyone else. Cordless was the first real crash pad that defined and shaped the market. 

Hmm, the big C had me fooled then! Early 90s so you're probably right,  I don't think Boone was working there until it was BD

3 straight days of climbing and I am pretty worked but Isa is hot to trot for another day of sports climbing.

gnarly squeeze chimney to enter and exit.  

Nick Goldsmithwrote:

No more honey for Pooh!

Here's an FA from the winter. 1k paddle across a reservoir to this amazing boulder I found on a camping trip with my daughters last summer.

Song in the video is the acoustic version of Limits by Bad Omens. This is the more metal version.

Edit for clarity

Nick Goldsmithwrote:

Where is this?  Love it!

Thatcher st park.  Catskills, NY.  Great limestone  sport climbing in a unique setting with a very unforgettable and unforgiving entrance....

This is what the exit looks like.  Two routes to the left of Isa on that blank looking wall. All new glue ins.

Closest thing I ever encountered was the Stone Door in Tennessee. By comparison, the Stone Door is two wide open barn doors when compared to this fat man's misery approach!

Unique!?

-55 pounds one arm 20mm hang. 7 seconds 7 sets. Middle and ring half crimp, Index and pinky chisel grip.

Tried a burly 5.12c with single hand 22mm lieback holds with feet smearing the corner dihedral. Fingers in half crimp could handle it pretty well after the warmup as per above. AI estimated that the force on each hand lieback to be anywhere from 123 to 137 pounds which is within 2 pounds of my one arm -55 pound hang warm-ups.  

Finger strength is getting better, my focus will be more Kikter board.

M Mwrote:

Hmm, the big C had me fooled then! Early 90s so you're probably right,  I don't think Boone was working there until it was BD

I bet I was the first customer here in North Carolina for the BD Spot pad in 1994, I even added additional foam to mine to make it better.  Boone NC, in the early 90s was a hotbed for DIY bouldering crashpads.  Saw all kinds of sofa cushions beefed up with duct tape and homemade rigs with furniture foam, automotive carpet and webbing straps.  Best homemade pad that I ever saw was one that Sue Patenaude made out of high quality fabric and foam, it's stitching and finished look was indistinguishable from the professional product pads that would show up just a few years later.  I think John Sherman toting around his Kinnaloa sketch pad had a lot to do in inspiring these pad projects.  I distinctly remember his companion Kinnaloa pad as he spent lots of time bouldering here in the early 90s.

I got out for a few hours with Bob yesterday. It was just a beautiful blue sky day and I don’t think we saw another person the whole day.

What I’m loving is that all my plans for the season got put on hold while I focus on healing, but instead of lusting after much harder routes, I have gotten to slow down and really study the easier ones.  On this lovely route there are two short sections that have really discouraged me in the past.  I’ve kind of dreaded having to maneuver over them.  So it’s been fun and educational actually to take them apart, figure out the best way to get through them.  

Something I could never do in the gym. The hardest part of this route is climbing a very thin tiny dike at the top of the route. Doing this the “old-fashioned way” I just didn’t have the strength or technique, but making a few subtle adjustments – – changing the position of my left standing leg and shifting my body just a little to the left allowed me to make that move.  Will I remember this next time? I don’t know, but I think slowing down and focusing on the little things this season will make me a better climber next season.

And I assume this is somewhat the process that Ward uses on his boulder.  

What a great sport/endeavor!  

Sean Barbwrote:

I bet I was the first customer here in North Carolina for the BD Spot pad in 1994, I even added additional foam to mine to make it better.  Boone NC, in the early 90s was a hotbed for DIY bouldering crashpads.  Saw all kinds of sofa cushions beefed up with duct tape and homemade rigs with furniture foam, automotive carpet and webbing straps.  Best homemade pad that I ever saw was one that Sue Patenaude made out of high quality fabric and foam, it's stitching and finished look was indistinguishable from the professional product pads that would show up just a few years later.  I think John Sherman toting around his Kinnaloa sketch pad had a lot to do in inspiring these pad projects.  I distinctly remember his companion Kinnaloa pad as he spent lots of time bouldering here in the early 90s.

I once sewed a crash pad (edit: about 1991) driving from Cincinnati to Hueco: two 2x3 foot pieces of carpet with 3, 1/2" pieces of carpet padding in the middle. All I had for 45 degree wall, BITD 

Sean, in the NRG Cater movie that's me talking with Sue Patenaude about hubris. Funny moment.

I think that was also the day JB Tribout almost on-sighted Quinsana Plus. Doug Reed and a small group were watching him climb and when JB got to the crux and was shaking out, planning, the next move, Doug, shouts up, "You're gonna want to get that pocket with your left hand." Not sure if he was sandbagging, spoiling the on-sight purposely or genuinely trying to be helpful! Weird moment.

Lori said….. 

Something I could never do in the gym. The hardest part of this route is climbing a very thin tiny dike at the top of the route. Doing this the “old-fashioned way” I just didn’t have the strength or technique, but making a few subtle adjustments – – changing the position of my left standing leg and shifting my body just a little to the left allowed me to make that move.  Will I remember this next time? I don’t know, but I think slowing down and focusing on the little things this season will make me a better climber next season.

NEXT SEASON!!!!!

Girl you have been around long enough to know climbing has no seasons. None…. When it’s hot- you gotta go to where it’s not hot. When winter ices up the stone- you go Ice Climbing. To get any better takes 24/7/365 dedication.
Your post proves it. Bob helped you discover some of the subtle things. Hip placement, foot placement, attitude, energy consumption, strategy and execution-all of it. These skills are something you learn, and practice daily.

I don’t mean to be harsh, just honest and truthful.

I feel like I was the luckiest person alive when I started climbing at Stoney Point. I was able to learn due to the generous tutoring I received from the greats: Mark Powell, Bob Kamps, Mark Klemens and others to numerous to list.
Every Tuesday and Thursday Bob would gather up us youth and show us how to do “the problems”. I remember him smacking my leg and saying “extend your leg till it’s straight, with your foot like this, then rock over and balance..and reach high….”

He could be quite the task master. But those lessons took hold and many of US followed his lessons learned the trade.

I have climbed a ton with Kris Solem, a world class Trumpet player, he shared some of the details about learning the instrument from old school teachers, who didn’t sugar coat the process. It was brutal according to him. But all the work paid off and he was able to become a professional classical musician- not easy.

I guess what I’m getting at is mastering anything takes work, persistence and dedication.

Lori- you have come a long way for someone who started late and you have tasted success.
Keep it up, get the good things climbing offers but don’t think that there are seasons.

Later 

Guy, it's always so good to hear from you!  Kris plays trombone???  Why are there so many things I don't know about?

It's hard to resist opining about 'life' here.  There are so many life factors that distill into the day-to-day.  I'm envious, (ie of Phylp and so many travels) and those of you who can just take off for extended camping and fishing.  And I get pissed off... WHY can't I be out 24/7/365?  Why won't my body let me?  And Tony sits here, really disabled... there has to be some 'us' time. I walked in the house yesterday to the smell of a pot roast on the stove, man that was wonderful!     

I felt the sentiment you described yesterday.... when trying to work out those difficult sections of rock... IF ONLY I could be out here climbing every day, things would be different.  I would have learned those finer points and I'd be on to greener pastures.   Someone said yesterday 'You're exploring the edges of your potential. That's meaningful to all of us."   I AM exploring the edges, but life keeps getting in the way.   

It feels like everything about this journey has to be a compromise, frequently with my own health.  We are now adults.    

----

We've sorta hit a rhythm here in Josh.  Once the temps hit 90, we back off.  Most of July and August are non climbing  so I use that time to hike more, scramble, and go elsewhere like Truckee and Donner while I visit my kids, Lover's Leap.  I'm heading outta here this weekend, alone, I think... finally heading up to Sac to see my family, and go visiting Nvidia and other Googly places.  I'm losing optimal climbing time doing that... May is the last serious climbing month before it gets to hot to be out on the regular.  But I also miss my family.  

Guy, maybe you and some others can answer this.  Have you investigated the limits of your body at this time?  You said the other day you now need two days of rest after one day of climbing.  So, what would an all out effort look like?  

I feel like this is also the perfect subject for rGold to drop in on.  Is there ever the temptation to just push your climbing and limits beyond what is comfortable?  You seem always so happy.....  :-)

 

We are on a mini road trip. Only about 10 days.. The first 3 days the weather was awesome so we climbed three days in a row. I was worked really hard by the end of the day yesterday. I had to aid up the last 5.9 to clean the draws and anchor. Then the climb out of the canyon was pretty strenuous for me.  It was nice again today and Isa was hot to climb again but my elbow and shoulders are talking to me pretty loudly so we opted for a rest day.. I am only 63.9 years old..  hopeing that by the time we finish this leg of driving that my elbow will be happy... 

Day one 1.5hrs south of where we live..  Sports climbing.

super fun. 

Day two trad climbing at our old home crag. Here is Isa following a climb we did the first ascent of over 20 years ago. Crazy how brown all the Hemlock trees are from last summers drought. 

And following a climb I have soloed thousands of times that felt pretty stiff this time.. The gear weight's you down ;)

yesterday was really cool  sport climbing on limestone.

The squeeze chimney getting into the  climbing area was pretty insane... 

they have a test that you have to take before you are allowed to go climbing.

trailed the  pack on a long sling.

The real deal, me at the end of the day totally worked..  I feel like if I slipped I would be permanently stuck. 

driving to Seneca now. 

 

 I feel like if I slipped I would be permanently stuck.

A feeling I held in the Narrows on Steck Salathe in Yose! I gave up caving to favor rock climbing and I'm going to die in a squeeze chimney??? Terrifying!

Guy Keesee said: "Every Tuesday and Thursday Bob would gather up us youth and show us how to do “the problems”. I remember him smacking my leg and saying “extend your leg till it’s straight, with your foot like this, then rock over and balance..and reach high….”

 

The 1960s at Sylvan Lake. I am explaining to Kamps he used a hold I had sanctioned as out of bounds. He then told me that if I was requiring eliminating intermediate holds, he would require me to use every intermediate hold he had used. We reached a compromise, but I don't recall what it was.

The Legend takes a breather. You are missed, my friend.