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Would you whip?

Original Post
Ti ck · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 2,481

Not actually a whipping bolt because its in an anchor but it still makes me nervous. Thoughts?

Logan Peterson · · Santa Fe, NM · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 403

You might specify your concern. Hanger on right looks like an old SMC, and it wouldn't be my first choice for a factor 2 fall. But I'd have no problem lowering or TRing off that anchor. At a glance, I'd clip hanger to left if leading above on multipitch.

MattB · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 55

Looks like two bolts in a loaf of bread sized/shaped tongue of rock? Generally not good. Hard to see exactly what's going on structurally in pic.

Is that the "bad" type of SMC hanger?

Ti ck · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 2,481

Mostly concerned about the hairline crack directly into the right bolt. Single pitch anchor about 75ft up and overhung below

Logan Peterson · · Santa Fe, NM · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 403

Gotcha.

Assuming both bolts aren't in a detached block, I'd probably still not sweat it. But I also wouldn't discourage someone from adding a third bolt, maybe 6" down or to the left.

Austin Donisan · · San Mateo, CA · Joined May 2014 · Points: 751
MattBwrote:

Is that the "bad" type of SMC hanger?

No, it's the newer and good enough type. The old thin ones have a horizontal logo.

My trick for remembering which is which: you're upright when alive and horizontal when dead.

B Y · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2021 · Points: 20
Ti ckwrote:

Mostly concerned about the hairline crack directly into the right bolt. Single pitch anchor about 75ft up and overhung below

Oh yeah, hard to see at first, but when you do, you cant unsee it. 

Hard to tell without more context, but with enough force that could probably pop. 

bob steed · · Gilroy, CA · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 67

I see that crack now.  I wouldn't trust that bolt with body weight-  it looks like the portion of rock right below the bolt could spall off below the crack.  Best practice would be to remove the bolt, patch the hole, and add another bolt nearby (extending with chain, if needed to work with the left bolt).

Allen Sanderson · · On the road to perdition · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,100

I immediately noticed the hairline crack but I would also like to see the larger area because it is hard to judge the rock (block) being used for the anchor. Given the loose material above, the crack below it all seems suspect.

Ti ck · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 2,481

Last pic i have for context, anchor in use
Nick Goldsmith · · NEK · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 505

It certainly seems like the anchor is placed in a protrusion of rock that is suspect.. It may be that the whole thing is a heap and there is no great place for an anchor?  best practice is to place bolts in flat  or concave sections of rock. Not on the outside edge of a protrusion. The crack looks bad.  sometimes you have to use a really long epoxy bolt in crappy rock but you still don't want to be in a feature like that...  

Andrew Giniat · · Asheville, NC · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 65

Just put a new hanger on

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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