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What Does Your Woody Look Like??? v3.0

Jeremy Till · · TN · Joined May 2023 · Points: 0

A year later and the board is getting closer to the density I was aiming at. Still 100% homemade holds and getting a pretty good database of climbs for it on Crux. Need to get more creative with shapes to fill in the start and finish holds and take a trip out of town to the lumberyard to balance out the plastic.

Paul L · · Portland, OR · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 337
Jeremy Tillwrote:

A year later and the board is getting closer to the density I was aiming at. Still 100% homemade holds and getting a pretty good database of climbs for it on Crux. Need to get more creative with shapes to fill in the start and finish holds and take a trip out of town to the lumberyard to balance out the plastic.

Nice one. 

How are you molding or making the non-wood holds you have? 

Jeremy Till · · TN · Joined May 2023 · Points: 0
Paul Lwrote:

Nice one. 

How are you molding or making the non-wood holds you have? 

They're all 3D printed out of various plastics. I have heard of people printing molds for resin or printing shells they fill in with resin instead.

https://makerworld.com/en/%40jeremytill

Paul L · · Portland, OR · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 337

Very cool.  My son has a P1S and is climber, and I don't think he's looked into printing holds at all, yet.  This could be a great way for him to fill out the mirrored section on our wall. 

Kevin Piarulli · · Redmond, OR · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 2,178

My woody, built a little over 4 years ago. Main board is 40 degrees, 10' wide x 11.5' long, plus kicker. Left side has a smaller 15 degree panel, vertical panel and 70 degree roof: great for kids, warmups and endurance circuits. I'm very fortunate to have space for it, and a wife who tolerates the obsession. With two small kids at home, consistent late nights in here have helped maintain my climbing level, and perhaps even make incremental strength gains. Training aside, I find it endlessly entertaining. Last year I stripped everything and put up this fully mirrored set on the 40. Wasn't sure how much I'd like that but it's been great. Besides revealing glaring R/L imbalances, it's interesting to try hard moves on each side and helps me understand body positions, shoulder engagement, grip type etc.

I've been using an app called Eat Spray Love for setting and tracking problems, but it looks like that doesn't exist anymore. What app do y'all recommend? Just looking for free and simple functionality, nothing fancy.

Wax Mhitford · · Georgia · Joined Jul 2023 · Points: 0

Crux is great... I've also been fooling around with BoulderBot recently because of the random route generation... Both are really good!!

John Clark · · BLC · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 1,408

Haven’t update in a few holds. Also, i use crux for logging.

Paul L · · Portland, OR · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 337

A third nod for the "Crux" app for the home wall setting.  The AI scanning they rolled out works very well and makes setting so much easier.  

IJMayer · · Guemes Island, WA · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 350

What are people using as a hinge to make the wall adjustable? 12 tall by 8 wide wall

This seems burly

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Door-Hinges/Marlboro/MA52VR.html?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=15627245757&gbraid=0AAAAAD_vMtk_Quo68cEW8MF2-dxWe8PEi&gclid=Cj0KCQiArt_JBhCTARIsADQZaynBU5UEehtGrxUkt3LqW3YS-fJUUsWCsDK1jKqwDkKkVluvs-4cXuwaAhoWEALw_wcB

Michael Larson · · Baraboo, WI · Joined Oct 2021 · Points: 71

Finally got the wall to a hold distribution I’m pretty happy with. Good variety of pinches, slopers, and edges, enables a wide range of movement for such a small board. Been playing around with making my own (slightly nicer) wood holds using some different hardwoods from a local shop. Really stoked on how they’ve turned out!

Purpleheart and walnut thick pinch and purple crimps

Purpleheart and walnut sloper, walnut pinch and rounded edge rail

Oblong walnut pinch with some beautiful grain

Walnut undercling and African padauk and walnut sloper

Kyle Smith · · Southern Nevada · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 2,258

Incredibly psyched to finally be able to contribute to this thread after lurking for a very long time! I got a ton of info, ideas, and stoke from everyone else's builds. Got myself a deal on used panels and a large box of holds, just had to build a frame for it all. 45 degree wall, 9 feet wide, 10 feet of climbing surface (bottom of roof trusses at 8.3 feet).

Frame nearing completion:

Starting the process of putting up all the holds:


Done putting up all the bolted/t-nut holds and the kicker! Too psyched to not climb on it a bit, but screw-ons will be added in the near future.

Brian Boyd · · Flagstaff, AZ · Joined Oct 2005 · Points: 4,538

Hey group!  I’m looking for advice on pads for my nearly finished home wall.  It is 16’ long and 11’ high, with caves at both ends. So, four 4’x6’ pads will give me complete coverage.  Here is what I’m looking at initially for pads:

asana: 6” thick dual density.  
organic: 6” thick open cell

Escape: 8” thick

I’m thinking that the 8” escape is overkill, and that the open cell might be too soft, so leaning towards asana.  I also have a bunch of 2’x2’x1/4” interlocking closed cell pieces that I could use as a topper or under layer.  any suggestions welcome.  And, yes, that is a 6’ gold camalot sized roof crack that finishes on the vert wall. Thanks!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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