I set up a lattice hang board this weekend, thinking I could use the 20 mm edge for weighted hangs/etc as the gym I climb at has a well defined 20 mm edge that I love. However, when I tried to hang from the 20 mm rounded edge on the lattice it was ridiculously hard! It feels so slick and rounded, it feels so strenuous to hang on it even at just body weight. Has anyone else had this experience? Did I hang it with a slight overhanging tilt or something? or is the rounded aspect just that much of a game changer?
It’s purposely very rounded so you can’t rely on friction as much. I like that it makes the hangs more honest. Don’t worry about how it compares to other edges.
It's for sure a harder edge to hang due to the edge-profile. I'm not sure which is better, (more weight on a more positive edge or less weight on a slopier edge) but you'll probably be able to effectively train on either and just have to accept the performance differential between the two.