Morocco - Taghia versus Anti-Atlas (Afantinzar)

Looking for feedback from anyone who has been to both.  We're going in April (so late season).

If we go south to the Anti-Atlas, we'd plan on spending most of the time trad climbing in the higher valleys on the north facing walls (Eagle Crag in Afantinzar and the like). We'd likely mostly stay at one of the climbing guest houses closer to the climbing rather then Tafraout.

If we go north. We'd hit Todra to warm up with a main goal of climbing in Taghia - which looks fantastic.

We max out leading in the high 6s, and for committing multipitch, mid 6 (low 10s YDS) is probably sensible. Our concern is whether Taghia has enough routes in our range that will be cool enough for the season.

Anyone been to both and can offer any thoughts?

I have been to both, in 2007.

We went for the month of March, first to Tafraoute, and then to Taghia. Tafraoute was getting pretty warm by the time we left, although better up high. Taghia was kind of cold in late March, and it seemed like the regulars were only starting to arrive when we left. I can’t speak to the number of potential routes, as that was awhile back, except that we were looking for similar grades and found enough for a few days. But that was 19 years ago. 

Hey Aaron. Very different experience. Question is: do you want long moderate trad or hard long sport.
both are exceptional.

Morocco is having a cold and wet winter. Not sure what that would mean for the spring, but maybe plan for both and make a final minute decision based on temps and weather?

I prefer Tafraout but that’s because i can’t climb many b2b days on long hard sport.

Thanks to you both. I'm generally a long trad person, too, but if the volunteer climbing is good enough, I can get excited.

Any comments on the non-climbing experience in both places? Ease of accommodations/food/etc..?

Aaron.

Both places have a few options for accommodations: usually bed and board with a local family. I can put you in touch with the right people. Send me a DM.

-Amine

Hey Aaron, not sure if you're still deciding between the two places or not, but let me know how I can help. I live in Morocco and similarly to Amine, I prefer the Anti-Atlas for long adventurous trad and Taghia for hard multipitch sport. There are some 6s in Taghia, but it's hard to say if it's enough to keep you busy as I don't know how long you're visiting for.

As for the non-climbing experience, in Taghia you'll be staying in a very small village, so you'll see general village life and other climbers. The Anti-Atlas is similar, if not more quiet than Taghia. It's very possible that you won't see any other climbers, and in the Afantizar area there really is nothing else except for climbing and hiking (no restaurants, shops, etc).

If Amine hasn't already put you in touch with people, let me know and I can help. 

I think we're leaning towards Taghia. I sent Amine a dm, but my guess is that messaging isn't working consistently in mountain project. We'd love some contact info as we're still planning on going. 

Thanks for following up, TJ!

I went to Todra Gorge a couple of years ago. Personally I was a bit disappointed and won't be going there again. Its not that the climbing was bad, but the whole gorge is very touristy with coach parties and a street market on one side and a large power cable which means all the routes on that side are inaccessible. We mainly climbed on the crags outside the gorge itself, and on a few of the easier routes some of the bolt hangars had been removed for resale by opportunists which is very unnerving if you don't have any trad gear on you.  Generally there wasn't as much of a climbing-community feel as I had expected. On the positive side we didn't need to hire a car as there is plenty to do within walking distance. 

Conversely the Anti-Atlas is one of my favourite places in the world and I've been there multiple times. It has a true adventure feel, a great vibe and the climbing is varied and interesting. You do need a car though and to carry some trad gear even on the sport routes as the bolts on those can be quite spaced. 

Thanks Alison, that reinforces my impressions. Todra definitely doesn't sound like our scene.

At this point we're leaning towards Taghia for something new that sounds interesting and we can scratch our trad itch back in Europe after we return.

Yo! 

Some friends and I spent like 8 ish days in Taghia (and 3 weeks in other areas in Morocco) in the fall of 2021. We climbed in the 6 range and it did feel like there was enough to keep you busy for a solid week. There's a lot more routes in hand drawn topops when you get there. There is a fun single pitch zone to keep you busy for a day too. A high concentration of 6's on a shorter wall across from Toujadad (can't remember the name). The below route was super rad! We felt like the grades we're pretty sporty, as it's mostly bolted ground up. AKA if it's below 10a climbing they don't put a bolt in lol.

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/123427512/au-nom-de-la-reforme

We stayed with Mohamed Rezki. He has a lot of topos and beta. He's super active on Whatsapp if you want to send him a message! 

+212 632 382762

Shoot me a message if you want some more beta! Heard they built a road to Taghia and you can drive in now, which sounds more convenient than the donkey shit show we dealt with. 

We just got back from Taghia. It was fantastic and just what we were looking for. The place is still remote and pretty quiet - it's definitely not the valley or Chamonix. Hopefully, the remoteness will keep it from turning in to a total zoo, but there's no question that the climbing is world class.

Drive from Marrakesh was ~6 hours, including the final road. Internet is extant but pretty limited. Don't plan on taking work meetings. 

And yeah, au nom was fantastic!

Note: if you're not comfortable climbing 6c (~11a) on technical vertical limestone high on a multipitch, your options will be very limited. Due to the remoteness and the size of the walls, it's probably not the best place to try and push your grades. That said, if you love sharp vertical limestone, you will love it!