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Recs for Single Pitch Trad in SW Germany / Switzerland

Original Post
Christopher Lange · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2023 · Points: 15

I'm looking for area/crag recommendations in southern Germany and Switzerland for learning trad climbing skills. My partner is new to trad climbing (I'm not) and we're looking for an area for him to practice placing gear and leading on trad. Ideally, I'm looking for a place with easy to moderate single pitch routes with easy gear placements. Bonus points if there is a high concentration of routes or if it's possible to set up a TR from above. Thank you everyone in advance for the recs!

Pavel Pavelovish · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2024 · Points: 0

Some specific rock type you are looking for? Where are you located?


If you are in the far south-west Gueberschwihr (north of the road) has some nice sandstone cracks for practicing. The southern part has the bigger theater where some routes might fit and the anchors are reachable from the top.


There are two guidebooks (Jura keepwild and c(h)lean), maybe you can get your hands on one of these!


Best

Pavel

scott rourke · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 20

The Pfaltz sure is cool. Great routes, often going up towers. Nice camping at the Barenbrunnerhof near Dahn. I want to go back

Alan Rubin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 10

These days so many of the cragging areas in Europe have been bolted,that I'm not at all sure about which areas still offer much in the way of trad climbing options. While I have never been there myself, there are some granite areas in southern Germany that may still provide a selection of trad routes--the Fichtelgeberge and Steinwald. Further north, as mentioned above, the Pfalz sandstone area in the Rhineland still has plenty of trad routes and is a stunningly beautiful area. There are both single and multipitch options. Also in that area and a bit further south, but still close to the French border, the Black Forest region has crags of a variety of rock types, several likely still with trad climbs---the Battert, a volcanic crag above Baden-Baden is one that I am familiar with, offering a dense collection of mostly one and two pitch routes. . Of course, much further north and east in Germany are the 'tradest' of crags in the Elbesandsteingebirge outside of Dresden, where even cams and nuts are not permitted!!!

In Switzerland, when we were there in the '80s, the wonderful and primarily granitic crags in the Grimsel/Furka Passes area were primarily gear protected with occasional bolts, but I believe that at least some of those routes have subsequently been retrobolted--though hopefully a number of at least semi-gear lines still remain. Definitely some of the best and most beautiful climbing that I have done, though most climbs in that area are multipitch.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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