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Sunny rocks near Boston

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P B · · VT · Joined Jan 2020 · Points: 0

I was hoping to gain an knowledge on very sunny places to climb rocks this time of year near the boston area. Near to me would range from w mass to Lincoln woods to pway. Boulders ropes whatever. The sunnier the better. Thanks for reading and any replies!

Alan Rubin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 10

Whatever the other disadvantages, sections of Quincy Quarries are major suntraps, also generally sheltered from the prevailing winds. I spent many sunny winter days climbing on 'C Walls' in shirtsleeves despite thermometer temperatures often below freezing. During my time in Boston ( and before gyms) that was the go-to local winter option. Close to the Quarries, there are also some more limited winter options at Rattlesnake Rocks in the Blue Hills, though the roads there are often closed for the winter, making for a longer approach. While I don't specifically recall climbing there during the winter, I know that Waits Mountain in Malden gets good afternoon sun and is likely a good option. Further north, I'm also guessing that Red Rock and some of the other Cape Ann crags can be good in winter in terms of sun, though might have drainage issues if there is much snow cover. Further south, as you mentioned, Lincoln Woods in RI is a popular winter bouldering locale.
If you are willing to drive a bit more, Rock Rimmon in Manchester, NH is another sunny, quick drying crag that can be good in winter, though not as sheltered as Quincy. Heading in the opposite direction, several of the CT traprock crags, such as East Peak and Owl's Lair, are popular winter destinations--though since they are east-facing, are best in the mornings, requiring an early start from Boston. Unfortunately, the crags here in western MA are not great winter options, especially not with the current snowpack. ( In less snowy years, parts of Farley---especially the Wall of Early Morning Light---though subject to ice fall from the upper tiers, and parts of Sanctuary can be good).

dave custer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 3,088

You can find rock to climb at Rumney, Hewes Hill, and Crow Hill; it will be what it is and lots will be damp/snow-covered. Maybe a stretch drive, but you might check out Spider's Web in the Daks.

I have rock climbing shoes in the car now when I go ice climbing--just in case there is no ice or it is too slushy, but that is optimism rather than rational.

There is lots of snow still on the cliffs, so a day that temps top out at 30 F might be more climbable than a 45 degree day that just gets everything melting in a big way. 

Brian · · North Kingstown, RI · Joined Sep 2001 · Points: 799

A bit of a drive but the best plce for winter rock climbing is East Peak, CT. Just as the description says, "A great spot for cold weather climbing"    mountainproject.com/area/10…

Bryce Dahlgren · · Boston, Ma · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 577

For rope stuff near Boston: College Rock, Waitt's Mountain and Rattlesnake Rocks tend to dry quick and are sunny. Red Rock in Gloucester is really good, but rather shaded/ maybe north facing so perhaps not the best as it may be wet.

For boulders the 14th Hole, Pipefitter and Weetamoo boulders at Lynn Woods get winter sun. And probably a bunch of other blocks are climbable there too. I've also had good days bouldering at Hammond Pond in the winter.

Russ Keane · · Salt Lake · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 447

You mean, "when it's sunny" I assume?  It's not like there are places in New England that get more sunny weather than other places.

Seth Cohen · · Concord, NH · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 70

Main Cliff at Rumney during the first part of the day gets blasted with sun. I climbed there in December when the temps were in the 20s, and while I was a bit cold belaying (though not too bad with the right clothes), I was totally fine climbing. It's gorgeous there!

Similarly, Waimea at Rumney gets very good sun during the second part of the day.

Nelson Healy · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2019 · Points: 1

Sunbowl would probably be a good bet.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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