Best assisted-braking belay device
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I would like to know what everybody thinks the best assisted-braking belay device there currently is on the market. |
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What do you mean by "mechanical"? Do you mean assisted belay device, tuber, plate, centrifugal clutch, etc? |
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Belay assisted device. Thanks Duncan I made changes to the post. |
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Depends on the application but the Neox and the Gigajul are generally my go-to assisted devices. |
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I think there are two categories of assisted belay devices. Active: Grigri, Neox, Revo, Pinch, etc. Passive: ATC-Pilot, Bow, Jul, etc The ones that are active one could call mechanical. I called them active cause there are active (moving) parts that make them work. The passive ones do not. That said, I am sure there is an official UIAA name convention. A recent review of some of the offerings. That said, IMHO there is no one best. It depends on the climbing activity. |
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Try them out to make your own opinion if you can. I hate the grigri, but the neox is fine, idk about the pinch. I use a gigajul, it's easy to give slack and it works with double ropes, and you can use it like a reverso when needed. |
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Yeah there's a great deal of personal preference in this. A lot of people dislike the Birdie but I love it, the slightly stronger spring makes it easier to pay out slack, and lowering off the front removes the rope twist issues. On the flip side I'm not really a grigri fan but it's pretty widely loved. At the end of the day they all work well enough and you'll get used to whatever you have. |
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The best belay device for whipping out slack incredibly quickly is the sulu go. Better than any tube, grigri, pinch, neox, etc. |
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Assisted braking* |
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There's no one best, only tradeoffs. |
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Hard Is Easy found the Vergo to catch the most consistently with no help from a hand on the brake strand. You could probably get a pilot, birdie or lifeguard the cheapest as folks aren’t big fans. the Jul line from edelrid is easily the most versatile and simplest to use.
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I’m sorry for being the grammar nerd on a climbing forum, but the correct term is assisted-braking belay device. (ABD), NOT belay assisted braking device. It just hurts my brain to see the misuse…
The fact that all my partners use a grigri makes it easy to check ea h other, and to borrow a device, in case something happens with mine. |
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+1 for Gigajul as best all arounder. |
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the one having the most fun |
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Elderid Pinch(mechanical assisted) Basically replaced all situations i used a grigri 2/grigri +/grigri 2023 in for the last 10 years
Hands down the best belay device I've ever used. Basically all best things about a grigri and none of the draw backs. Edelrid Megajul:
Edelrid Gigajul:
BD ATC-pilot:
I've owned and used: og grigri, atc, atc guide, grigri 2,grigri +, neox, revo, megjul, microjul, gigajul, atc-pilot and tested pretty much every device out there via working for a climbing gym that has loaner belay devices for customers. These opinions are biased towards my time ice climbing, expedition climbing and guiding which are not the norm so i understand they might be unique perspectives on these devices. |
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David Lwrote: You should try the pinch 😜 |
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Alex Maher wrote: I am quite Lena was talking about Trango Cinch, not Edelrid Pinch https://www.verticalmuseum.com/VerticalDevicesPage/Belay/LeverBelayPages/LeverBoxBelay0802.php That said, Lena is rarely wrong, but this is one the times when she is - Trango Vergo is the best ABD so far ;) |
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Alex Maher wrote: Trango used to make a belay device called the Cinch Edit: Alas, I was too slow |
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How old is the clinch then cause I have never heard of it? |
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Older than your knowledge of belay devices. It would appear there's a lack of knowledge of how to google a basic question as well, as that would give you an answer in the very first result. Lol, have I been restricted from replying to this thread because I gave OP a snarky reply in response to his arrogance? |
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My knowledge of them is very limited. To date I have only used the edelrid pinch and a grigri I primarily use tubular style devices cause they are lighter, cheaper and more compact. |





