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Best assisted-braking belay device

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Alex Maher · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2025 · Points: 0

I would like to know what everybody thinks the best assisted-braking belay device there currently is on the market. 

Duncan Domingue · · Nederland, CO (from Louisiana) · Joined May 2015 · Points: 80

What do you mean by "mechanical"? Do you mean assisted belay device, tuber, plate, centrifugal clutch, etc?

Alex Maher · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2025 · Points: 0

Belay assisted device. Thanks Duncan I made changes to the post.

NateC · · Utah · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 1

Depends on the application but the Neox and the Gigajul are generally my go-to assisted devices. 

Allen Sanderson · · On the road to perdition · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,100

I think there are two categories of assisted belay devices. 

Active: Grigri, Neox, Revo, Pinch, etc.

Passive: ATC-Pilot, Bow, Jul, etc

The ones that are active one could call mechanical. I called them active cause there are active (moving) parts that make them work. The passive ones do not. That said, I am sure there is an official UIAA name convention.

A recent review of some of the offerings.

That said, IMHO there is no one best. It depends on the climbing activity.

Loic Prst · · Chamonix · Joined Mar 2025 · Points: 0

Try them out to make your own opinion if you can. I hate the grigri, but the neox is fine, idk about the pinch. I use a gigajul, it's easy to give slack and it works with double ropes, and you can use it like a reverso when needed.

Ryan Mac · · Durango, CO · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 1

Yeah there's a great deal of personal preference in this. A lot of people dislike the Birdie but I love it, the slightly stronger spring makes it easier to pay out slack, and lowering off the front removes the rope twist issues. On the flip side I'm not really a grigri fan but it's pretty widely loved. At the end of the day they all work well enough and you'll get used to whatever you have.

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236

The best belay device for whipping out slack incredibly quickly is the sulu go. Better than any tube, grigri, pinch, neox, etc. 

John Clark · · BLC · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 1,408

Assisted braking*

David L · · Austin, TX · Joined Oct 2024 · Points: 0

There's no one best, only tradeoffs.

Wade Banks · · Harrisonburg, VA · Joined Feb 2023 · Points: 592

Hard Is Easy found the Vergo to catch the most consistently with no help from a hand on the brake strand.

You could probably get a pilot, birdie or lifeguard the cheapest as folks aren’t big fans.

the Jul line from edelrid is easily the most versatile and simplest to use.


Best is almost impossible to say unless the use is known as well. I love my Vergo because I TRS a lot and it’s the best normal belay device for TRS. It also feeds slack better than any other device I’ve tried. 

Lena chita · · OH · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 1,842

I’m sorry for being the grammar nerd on a climbing forum, but the correct term is assisted-braking belay device. (ABD), NOT belay assisted braking device.

It just hurts my brain to see the misuse… 


Lots of ABDs on the market, so it comes to personal preference. Grigri was the first ABD I had used, and, while I have played with Cinch, Vergo, and Revo, none of them were compelling enough to force me to switch from the grigri.

The fact that all my partners use a grigri makes it easy to check ea h other, and to borrow a device, in case something happens with mine. 

Exiled Michigander · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2018 · Points: 252

+1 for Gigajul as best all arounder.  

Matt N · · CA · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 476

the one having the most fun

Andrew Lamb · · Wyoming · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 16

 Elderid Pinch(mechanical assisted) 

Basically replaced all situations i used a grigri 2/grigri +/grigri 2023 in for the last 10 years 

  • Dual attachment for better TR and top belay 
  • Incredibly smooth, plenty of atc trained folks have no problem using it first go
  • Clears ice and snow so works really well in winter (most of my use is as a guide in winter, and summer rock guding) 
  • Lead rope solo is easy to set up without modification due to better design shape, certified for rope access so closer to engineered for fall arresting use
  • Cons: a bit heavy, unique to attach and can cause confusion without practice, the anti-panic is standard and finicky but removable 

Hands down the best belay device I've ever used. Basically all best things about a grigri and none of the draw backs. 

Edelrid Megajul:

  • Super light and small
  • Break assist works well on many diameters of rope and carabiner 
  • Cons:incredibly complex and finicky to get used to and to belay from above, expert/experienced use only 

Edelrid Gigajul:

  • Slightly larger but more intuitive than megajul
  • Needs lots of practice still but can be easier to learn for beginners 
  • Can turn "off" assist mode so works great for extended rappel setup
  • Still lighter than most mechanical assist devices

BD ATC-pilot:

  • Simple
  • Light
  • Very easy to teach and get comfortable with quickly even for non climbers/first time users 

I've owned and used: og grigri, atc, atc guide, grigri 2,grigri +, neox, revo, megjul, microjul, gigajul, atc-pilot and tested pretty much every device out there via working for a climbing gym that has loaner belay devices for customers. These opinions are biased towards my time ice climbing, expedition climbing and guiding which are not the norm so i understand they might be unique perspectives on these devices. 

Andrew Lamb · · Wyoming · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 16
David Lwrote:

There's no one best, only tradeoffs.

You should try the pinch 😜

amarius · · Nowhere, OK · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 20
Alex Maher wrote:

*pinch

I am quite Lena was talking about Trango Cinch, not Edelrid Pinch 

https://www.verticalmuseum.com/VerticalDevicesPage/Belay/LeverBelayPages/LeverBoxBelay0802.php 

That said, Lena is rarely wrong, but this is one the times when she is - Trango Vergo is the best ABD so far ;)

Cosmic Hotdog · · California · Joined Sep 2019 · Points: 452
Alex Maher wrote:

*pinch

*each

Trango used to make a belay device called the Cinch

Edit: Alas, I was too slow

Alex Maher · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2025 · Points: 0

How old is the clinch then cause I have never heard of it?

Cosmic Hotdog · · California · Joined Sep 2019 · Points: 452

Older than your knowledge of belay devices. It would appear there's a lack of knowledge of how to google a basic question as well, as that would give you an answer in the very first result. 

Lol, have I been restricted from replying to this thread because I gave OP a snarky reply in response to his arrogance?

Alex Maher · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2025 · Points: 0

My knowledge of them is very limited. To date I have only used the edelrid pinch and a grigri I primarily use tubular style devices cause they are lighter, cheaper and more compact.

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