Belay jacket for ice MP

I got soaked with my down jacket while doing an mulitipitch ice climb.

Any suggestions for a synthetic full jacket?  

Thanks

I really like my Rab Generator Alpine.  It’s a great belay jacket.  I have bought a Rab Cirrus ultra for my oldest son, he really likes it. My younger son has the Rab Nebutron and it works great too.  All are synthetic, compress pretty small, definitely keep you warm when in wet snowy conditions.  
I have an older Mountain Equipment Citadel that is amazing too.  I’ve slightly outgrown it- getting fatter…but it is one amazing piece of kit.

My wife has the BD Belay parka and it keeps her pretty warm.  It doesn’t compress as small .

I’m a big fan of synthetics, I’ve been in quite a few situations that down just didn’t cut it.  The synthetic really shines in those conditions.

D 

Mountain equipment have the super oreus coming out soon, maybe not soon enough for your needs. Probably the only real innovation in synthetic insulation in the past decade. 

Should have mentioned I tried the arcteryx nuceli so parka and atom sv

that guy named sebwrote:

Mountain equipment have the super oreus coming out soon, maybe not soon enough for your needs. Probably the only real innovation in synthetic insulation in the past decade. 

I have the Oreus jacket.  

Like all Mountain Equipment products, it's very well thought out.  It's similar in weight to the Patagonia DAS light jacket, but perhaps a little bit more warm and lofty.  

No idea what the "Super Oreus" is, my guess is that it's a heavier and warmer version of the current Oreus.  

If you can find one on the used market, the Arcteryx Dually parka is perhaps the best synthetic insulated belay jacket ever made.  Very very warm and pretty much impervious to water.  

Kai Larsonwrote:

I have the Oreus jacket.  

Like all Mountain Equipment products, it's very well thought out.  It's similar in weight to the Patagonia DAS light jacket, but perhaps a little bit more warm and lofty.  

No idea what the "Super Oreus" is, my guess is that it's a heavier and warmer version of the current Oreus.  

If you can find one on the used market, the Arcteryx Dually parka is perhaps the best synthetic insulated belay jacket ever made.  Very very warm and pretty much impervious to water.  

You think the nuclei so replaced the dually?

RWPTwrote:

You think the nuclei so replaced the dually?

The Nuclei is not like the Dually.

Different construction.  

Different insulation.  

I’ve been really happy with the Black Diamond belay parka. 

I have the DAS and it’s awesome super light and warm 

I'm not getting wet all that often but have been searching for a good synthetic 'belay parka' as well. Here's my list:

ME Oreus: $449.95, PFAS-Free DWR, 390g, packs into included pouch

RAB Generator: $340, 'Pertex' outter ,540g

Patagucci DAS: $349, Water-resistant, 346g, stuffs into itself

BD Belay parka:  $449, PFAS-Free DWR, 795g

All 4 supposedly work with a helmet and have 2-way YKK zippers. 

My questions would be which are the warmest and how durability compares... The BD seems much bulkier and is a good bit heavier so that one is probably not even comparable to the other three. Also, the built in sack would be nice to throw the thing on a harness if just being deployed for belays on a multipitch.

I’ve found the Rab Generator to be very warm,  Light enough and really durable.  It’s been a great ice climbing belay jacket.  
I like having a separate stuff sack for my belay jacket. I sew a really sturdy webbing loop into it.  That way I have a great sack that I can stuff my jacket into- I can normally get an extra pair of gloves in the bottom as well.  I like having the separate stuff sack because it makes it so much easier to stuff the jacket and unstuffed it.  You can clip the stuff sack in front of you on your anchor or whatever and pull your jacket out or put it away without worrying about dropping it.  

You can get a really big synthetic parka, or you can layer thinner synthetic jackets. Sometimes it is nice to have the options of separate layers. 

Really cold northeast days it's probably nice to just have a parka, but more dynamic days can benefit from a more flexible layering system. 

Not exactly the environment you are talking about, but an intresting read on layers, functionality, and how to make every ounce work for you over the couse of a climb: https://www.patagonia.com/stories/sports/climbing/colin-haleys-clothing-system-for-alpine-climbing-in-the-chalten-massif/story-95145.html

(Caution, definitely an ad, but if you look past the branding it's great advice) 

I’ve been really happy with my mountain equipment citadel. 

Andrew Giniatwrote:

ME Oreus: $449.95, PFAS-Free DWR, 390g, packs into included pouch

RAB Generator: $340, 'Pertex' outter ,540g

Patagucci DAS: $349, Water-resistant, 346g, stuffs into itself

BD Belay parka:  $449, PFAS-Free DWR, 795g

All 4 supposedly work with a helmet and have 2-way YKK zippers. 

My questions would be which are the warmest and how durability compares... The BD seems much bulkier and is a good bit heavier so that one is probably not even comparable to the other three. Also, the built in sack would be nice to throw the thing on a harness if just being deployed for belays on a multipitch.

The Patagonia piece that's $350/346g is the DAS Light, which has 60g synthetic insulation.  If you're looking for something warmer, more comparable to the BD Belay Parka and other traditional big warm belay pieces, you might want the DAS Parka, which has 133g/173g synthetic insulation ($450/556g).

There are lots of similar parkas on the market, such as the ME Fitzroy (120g insuation), ME Citadel (160g), Arcteryx Nuclei SV (190g), Mammut Rime Pro Belay (140g), etc.

The BD one is bulky AF, I wouldn’t dream of stuffing it in a bag and clipping to my harnesss. I have sleeping bags that are more compact. Nice and warm though.
I have a nucleus FL to bring on multi pitches, but it is significantly less warm. 

Mountain Equipment Citadel

The Flying Dutchmanwrote:

The BD one is bulky AF, I wouldn’t dream of stuffing it in a bag and clipping to my harnesss. I have sleeping bags that are more compact. Nice and warm though.
I have a nucleus FL to bring on multi pitches, but it is significantly less warm. 

Any ideas if nuclei sv is bulkier than the BD?

The Flying Dutchmanwrote:

The BD one is bulky AF, I wouldn’t dream of stuffing it in a bag and clipping to my harnesss. I have sleeping bags that are more compact. Nice and warm though.
I have a nucleus FL to bring on multi pitches, but it is significantly less warm. 

It definitely is a little bulkier than comparable options but I’ve clipped to to my harness several times.

I generally prefer a small pack for my belay jacket, gloves, etc. I’m short and end up kicking stuff that’s hanging from my harness. 

I like wearing an arteryx proton and then goretex shell over that for multi pitch, then Patagonia Fitzroy puffy in the bag