Introducing my version of a lightweight PAS.

I can't find the thread where we were leading up to this, but I have to thank @brocky for the idea to try a different sort of splice in the 5mm cord I'd been wanting to use as a lanyard to turn my RPL friction plate into a PAS.  I have found the cord--it's a 5mm Dyneema-cored rope with a Technora/polyester cover, with a break load of 11.7kN.  It's super-static, rather expensive (retails for $3.28/foot), but for the six feet needed for a PAS  that's hardly an issue.

The eye to girth hitch it to a harness is spliced, so super low-profile, and the whole setup weighs 62g.

@brocky--you were right, though it's hella stiff to suck in, a double-braid splice (rather than core-dependent) was the way to go.  It's fitting, too, since the load is split between the mostly Technora cover and the Dyneema core.

As soon as I can get my Tech help's attention, I'll have the setup on my webstore, as a set, as well as the lanyard alone for those lucky enough to already own an RPL.  Pictures:

What's the advantage compared to just some 5mm technora (or other 5mm splice-able tech-cord) in a petzl connect adjust evolve widget? My guess is it would be same-ish weight and likely little less with the known functionality of the connect style widget...
FYI there are also "soft" version of dyneema cored ropes like the one you use. Velo sailing makes one IIRC....Dy-pes soft, but only a poly sheath on that particular offering. They also have a few other models in the same category that you might want look at.

Looks neat though. Biggest thing for me would be thats it's static. I prefer my PAS to be dynamic, but for some ultra-light weight weenies, and specific use cases, this could be sweet.

Oh and can it be adjusted under load?

Ben Zartmanwrote:

I have found the cord--it's a 5mm Dyneema-cored rope with a Technora/polyester cover, with a break load of 11.7kN.

Do these meet any UIAA or EN standards?

UIAA109-Belay Lanyard (EN17520) requires 15 kN minimum strength, and 10 kN maximum impact force on a FF2.0.  Products such as the Petzl Connect Adjust, Beal Expresso Fit, and Camp Swing all meet this standard.

Some static lanyards (BD Link, Metolius PAS) instead conform to UIAA102 (EN566), which requires 22 kN minimum breaking strength.

Mr Rogerswrote:

What's the advantage compared to just some 5mm technora (or other 5mm splice-able tech-cord) in a petzl connect adjust evolve widget? My guess is it would be same-ish weight and likely little less with the known functionality of the connect style widget...
FYI there are also "soft" version of dyneema cored ropes like the one you use. Velo sailing makes one IIRC....Dy-pes soft, but only a poly sheath on that particular offering. They also have a few other models in the same category that you might want look at.

Looks neat though. Biggest thing for me would be thats it's static. I prefer my PAS to be dynamic, but for some ultra-light weight weenies, and specific use cases, this could be sweet.

Oh and can it be adjusted under load?

It's like a Coach bag compared to an Ikea bag. 

Any info on if/when it slips?

Kyle, as the cord breaks at 11kn and is totally static it definitely doesn't conform to any existing lanyard standard. 

Personally I'm fine with that, expert use, niche applications, etc. I'm guessing the MBS will be around 8kn-10kn.

@Mr Rogers,  There's a bewildering array and variety of ropes in the world, and many that would do just fine.  I had to choose one that I could easily get, and was able to splice.  This is stronger and lighter than many 5mm cords, and the nubbly cover makes it easy to grip.  I don't know how the Adjust or Connect deal with rope that slim.  A dynamic cord for a PAS would have to be fatter and heavier.  This is for, as you pointed out, the ultra-light weenies.  It's also for those who want a device than can do several things.  The RPL has four use modes, of which this is one.  Under-load adjustment is only shorter.  To ease it you have to unload.  Works like a Kong Slide.

@Kyle Tarry, as Seb pointed out, this would not fit into the UIAA rubric.  Those requiring that sort of certification should stick to the ones than can be tagged.

@Seb, slippage: not under bodyweight, at least.  I'm shopping for load cells I can use to determine this, as well as the efficiency of my crevasse-rescue tackles.  Money's a bit tight until spring orders come in....standby.

Mr Rogerswrote:

What's the advantage compared to just some 5mm technora (or other 5mm splice-able tech-cord) in a petzl connect adjust evolve widget? My guess is it would be same-ish weight and likely little less with the known functionality of the connect style widget...
FYI there are also "soft" version of dyneema cored ropes like the one you use. Velo sailing makes one IIRC....Dy-pes soft, but only a poly sheath on that particular offering. They also have a few other models in the same category that you might want look at.

Looks neat though. Biggest thing for me would be thats it's static. I prefer my PAS to be dynamic, but for some ultra-light weight weenies, and specific use cases, this could be sweet.

Oh and can it be adjusted under load?

I'm not too worried about it being static, no difference to using a tied off sling as a personal, something I do all the time. Just need to not climb above the anchor with the personal on which isn't a great idea in the first place. Generally I prefer a sling or static daisy chain anchor and veer away from adjustable PAS's for bulk and difficulty of extending rappels. Although for something this light, and the ability for it to be used for rappelling and belaying with 6mm ropes (RAD line or other hyperstatic haul line scenario) It's a yes from me. Will definitely pick one up when they get on the webstore.