New and Experienced Climbers over 50 #40

Lori Milas wrote:

Thank you, Greg!  That was really thoughtful of you to post this info. I’m sure it’s not the best route in the world but I walk by it almost every day and wonder.  And after a bit more scrambling on this day I decided to wait until I could go with someone.  

speaking of fossil, he has strongly encouraged me to bring back some crack climbing just for strength and variety. It sounds like a solid idea so I roamed around a bit and found myself looking at this face and two cracks. I’m assuming the one on the right is the better bet. (Little Rock Candy Moun

i’m not half bad at easy cracks, but I haven’t gone looking for them. Maybe now I should. I learned so much from this one – – mainly how inexperienced I am. I worked so hard to get in those hand jams and figure out a way through the cracks. It wasn’t until the day was over that I learned I could have just stemmed over them

As I'm sure you now know well, stemming is a very important part of a climber's repertoire--though surprisingly often overlooked. It even is helpful in certain slab climbing situations, while also sometimes allowing 'rests' ( or, at least, shakeouts) in very overhanging terrain.

Enjoy your New Year. Climb well in 2026.

Happy New Year!

Happy New Year from the Ice Planet Hoth (for Star Wars fans).   I hiked out to the local boulder, maybe a two mile walk and it was encased in clear ice.  We are having friends over and making our intentions for the new year in front of the fire.  My intentions worked out well for last year, although I had no major sends but got really close on two hard for me (V8?) first ascents. 

Bon Any a tothom!

Anyone else identify?

Happy last day of 2025!

Bigelow from Sugarloaf...brisk today.

Lunch.  Good times.

Pretty interesting looking drink there.  The chicken contributes to breakfast. The Pig goes all in.... 

 it was cold and gray by the time I got to the lake. Its such a dismal season there. two of the practice slabs  are all that is really in.. 

the infamous Willoughby practice slabs.. You can see that the starts are all tricky with snow plastered rock and not much ice untill you get up a ways.. 

I made it about half way before brittle ice that was fracturing in unpleasant ways  told me that was enough bouldering for the day. 

had to make two v threads to get down. Usually I nail those things on the first try but today I had a hard time getting the holes to line up...

the Willoughby Gap from the north.

Happy New Years Ever to all. 

Writing intentions for the New Year and what we want to burn in the fire.

Daniel Joder wrote:

Bon Any a tothom!

Anyone else identify?

Yes. This or the random gunfire that some yokels seem to think is needed (perhaps not in Spain though?).

I hope everyone on this thread has a wonderful 2026.

Time to remember those old friends we lost. Bill Taylor, a Georgia Tech frat brother, in Cloudland Canyon, GA, 1954. Bill became an electrical engineer, then a Navy fighter pilot who received the DFC from JFK for dangerous low level flights over Cuba in the Missile Crises of 1962. He became an airline pilot in the years that followed. RIP, Bill.

Bill is the first on the left. The squadron is receiving the Navy Unit Commendation Medal. 

Happy New Year everyone, from Spain!

Me on a 5.10 at Mula, near Murcia in the south east of the country. 

Happy new year to everyone. Wishing everyone a healthy year filled with strong climbing. I’m starting the year injured so it can only get better. Stay positive and always have fun. 

Cheers all. Here's to a healthy and constructively interesting 2026 for everyone!

Happy New Year you lovely bunch of old climbers like me that are still getting after it!!! Off to Vermont!!!

Stoke On!

Where in Vermont? I am in Smuggs parking lot right now.. trying to convince myself that 9f and windy is going to be fun 😊 

Nick Goldsmith wrote:

Where in Vermont? I am in Smuggs parking lot right now.. trying to convince myself that 9f and windy is going to be fun 😊 

Ha!  We'll be in Ferrisburgh by 3 pm!

I'll be snow shoeing tonight!

That's pretty far from me. It was very cold and windy up in the notch 

I did some Winter hiking 

Spooky snow field to get to the final pillar 

Happy to be on top again 

My new transition lenses get so dark I can hardly see through them... 

Happy New Year everyone!  (Nick, I meant to compliment/thank you on your update a few pages ago.  I pictured you there living the bachelor life, Isa gone, your pond with the hole and Hugi under the covers. Great visual). 

I've been so antsy lately--waiting for a lightbulb to flash on.  So today I drifted off listening to an interview with Morris Chang, founder of Taiwan Semiconductor Manufacturing.  I snapped to when I realized Morris is 92 years old, net worth $6.1 Billion, and REALLY bright.  He could remember stories, numbers, dates from 1987 as though they were yesterday.

So, I think this is a missing piece of 'anti-aging'.  I've been focused on exercise, protein, sleep etc... but what about the brain?  Maybe this explains some of my desire to go back to work (which I can't/won't)... but recalling being in my office, often at 5 a.m., computers on, music in the background... and THINKING.  Numbers, software, client interaction, decision making.... I think maybe that is good for the brain, as much as squats are good for the quads.  

Here’s to Morris.  

So I'm wondering... is it possible that we get slow, dull (maybe early onset dementia) because we don't give our brains the thorough stimulation and workouts they got in school?  Anyway, I'm inspired to make sure that mental stimulation takes the same priority in 2026 as trying to get my butt a little tighter. :-)  Morris is a delight, every bit as in the game and capable as he was at 60.  

Rich and John have not addressed this lately... but doing math, science problems, etc... isn't that what keeps you so devilishly smart and young?    

And I'm still trying to get my thoughts around the very different experience I had out climbing this week, which was transformative.  I didn't climb well.  I'm still VERY run down and iron deficient. But I was there, and I felt different about the day.  A real bond with the rock, a connection to my climbing... a sense of understanding, assuredness.  No urgency to climb something harder, only something that flowed for me.  So... 2026, a different mindset in climbing.  

Because the deal is... from here on out the grade is not going to get much better.  And I'm realizing that's not the measure of climbing.  I'm looking for the way in which I can be a wise old woman, who maybe hobbles up a 5.5... and kills it.

Does anyone cook or eat bone marrow?

 

no

John Gill wrote:

Time to remember those old friends we lost. Bill Taylor, a Georgia Tech frat brother, in Cloudland Canyon, GA, 1954. 

Sorry for your loss John. Old friends are the best. 

Lori,
Herman is pretty doable up through the patina knobs, and gets sort of interesting when get get to the standard JT holdless friction bit.

As for the cracks...  the two M&M's routes (Plain and Peanut) are both fun.
I sorta recall the 5.9 having a bit of semi-burly jamming at one point, but it's been a while.

Seems like you've mentioned Dissolution Rock (and maybe even climbed on it).
That has some moderate options that are lots of fun.
I haven't done the left-most one (yet), but the rest of them were enjoyable and the approach is pretty easy.

If you want to do some pretty featured cracks (holds optional in addition to jamming if you want it), hit the three classic 5.7's on Dairy Queen Wall. 

A few shots from Yesterday. 

Isa's Farm. this is a half mile from my house. 

about a mile farther up the road