Girth and clove knots for anchor

Hello guys. What you think about that anchors with girth knot on master point and clove hitch for pieces in anchor? Some time ago I saw that system in Russia by very strong team (Karavshin). Maybe not the best choice for regular usage but good for superlight or emergency? 120-cm Dayneema open sling is enough for three or four pieces.

Girth Hitched Master Point (GHMP) is pretty standard now. There are more than a few good videos from IFMGA guides demonstrating the technique.

I don't understand how the third and fourth pieces in the bottom two photos will bear any weight. Are they intended as unweighted back ups?

You're misapplying this technique. 

https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/learn-the-v-clove-anchor

Notice how each piece should have a strand coming down to the focal point. The point of the clove hitches is to terminate the sling, kinda like untying your cordelette. 

The 2nd and 3rd set ups are bad. If you're concerned about the girth hitch at the masterpoint biner, you're setiously, how to say this nicely... unprepared for multipich.

First is fine ok from an equalization standpoint, but the beak needs to go. Second and third are not achieving the equalization intended - the outside pieces are taking all the load. The link Adam added is solid. Clove hitches are very useful but I'd study up a bit further as to when they're appropriate to use and how to use them correctly for the desired result. 

Edited to note that as said below, yes - beaks should not be used for free climbing other than as a last resort when nothing else is available. 

In addition to the comments above, I'd just like to say using beaks for anchors or free climbing is something done in dire straights from desperation, not normal practise.

It’s been interesting seeing the Girth Hitch anchor explode onto the Turtle Island climbing scene. From HowNot2 videos and other IG content, there’s lots to consume around it. One incident that unfortunately ended in a fatality in the Cascades (where I live), involved a girth-hitched rappel ring at the end of an ice-climb, The Cauthorn-Wilson.

TLDR; the ring was not set properly in a manner that appeared finished although upon bearing weight during a rappel, the ring unraveled and one climber perished. Worth a Google and more proper review for sure. 

Fall From Anchor — Rappel Ring Detached from Slings Washington, North Cascades, Cutthroat Peak

This one from 2024 (no fatality)?  Or some other accident?

That’s the one yeah. Glad to be corrected there was no fatality. 

I've been using the girth hitch anchor for at least 7 years most of the time. I haven't needed to clove hitch any pieces.

The OP's account is 404. 

Do yourself a favor. Ditch all that crap and just use the rope. You’re welcome! 

Cal Smithwrote:

That’s the one yeah. Glad to be corrected there was no fatality. 

Apologies, I didn't intend to correct you, all good.

Was just thinking I might have missed the accident you meant.

Thanks for bringing it up. It hadn't occurred to me that was an accessible failure mode.

Happy holidays, all.

Is this a joke? Wtf are #2 and #3

Greg Dwrote:

What is the girth hitch rappel set up? Anybody have any photos or diagrams? What is the advantage?  This photo doesn’t really help. 

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/126127916/cutthroat-peak-rappel-accident-likely-due-to-girth-hitch-failure-mode

It appears that we are talking about a girth hitched anchor not a girth hitched rappel which is what the accident report said.  That’s why I was confused. 

Salamanizer Skiwrote:

Do yourself a favor. Ditch all that crap and just use the rope. You’re welcome! 

I use just the rope about 20% of the time. But I like the flexibility of having the anchor its own thing.