Mountain Project Logo

Oliver Tippet's LRS Aid setup.

Hans Lacasse · · Canaan, NH · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 15
Olly Tippettwrote:

I use the continuous loop method, where I tie the top of my haul line to the bottom of the lead line. The bottom of the haul line is still clipped to the bags so I can get back to them easily down that after I finish the pitch. If I'm doing a solo push and only using one rope then I'll let the rope end dangle below me. Whether I have a stopper knot at the end of it or not depends on whether I'm using backup knots and how likely the knot is to get stuck.

So your haul line is not attached to the back of your harness?

Vinnie Villegas · · North Bend, OR · Joined Dec 2021 · Points: 141
Hans Lacassewrote:

So your haul line is not attached to the back of your harness?

Here’s a good article on the continuous loop! It’s a huge weight cut while leading.

https://www.andy-kirkpatrick.com/articles/view/rope_soloing_101_part_4

evan freeman · · Carson City · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 0

I can't imagine why anyone would solo without using a continuous loop.  Adding a tag rack on a fifi mid-loop is a bit too wild for my tastes, though. 

I bought a FreeBell for free LRS, but have decided that it's better for aid.  It's quite heavy, hangs low, and doesn't feed cache as smoothly as a MT, so I find it a bit faffy on the moderate multi pitch free routes I like to LRS.  But for aid it's pretty sweet.  I like that there's not as much incentive to decrease safety when aiding since it's easy to deal with feed & backup knot issues.

James D · · Salt Lake City · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 36

Has anyone used a REVO in the same fashion as the Freebell for a backup/rope cache?

evan freeman · · Carson City · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 0

People have used Revos for backup (not great for several reasons), but it won't work at all as a cache manager bc the rope feeds either direction. The beauty of the FreeBell is that it locks faster than a Revo and includes a one-way grab for cache.

James D · · Salt Lake City · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 36

Evan, makes sense. Thanks. I'm not familiar with the Freebell

M Goat · · St. George, UT · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 70

Are freebells still available? If not, anyone willing to sell theirs? 

Trae McCombs · · Macon · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 5
Olly Tippettwrote:

I use the continuous loop method, where I tie the top of my haul line to the bottom of the lead line. The bottom of the haul line is still clipped to the bags so I can get back to them easily down that after I finish the pitch. If I'm doing a solo push and only using one rope then I'll let the rope end dangle below me. Whether I have a stopper knot at the end of it or not depends on whether I'm using backup knots and how likely the knot is to get stuck.

I know you said you use the Freebell.... prior to that howerever you used a microtrax cache loop right?  Do you use an upright grigri with your chest harness?  I've watched a lot of your videos and I can't remember if you used did anything to keep your grigri upright or not.

Eventually I want to post a video with my setup (in our gym) and then everyone can tell me how I'm gonna die.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
Post a Reply to "Oliver Tippet's LRS Aid setup."

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community! It's FREE

Already have an account? Login to close this notice.