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Yosemite Easy Climbs and Lightest Rack

Original Post
Justin Park · · NJ · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 30

Hello! I know this has been asked before in some way shape or form but I plan on taking my sister out in the valley this weekend for some climbing. What are some easy climbs I could take her on (single pitch or easy first pitch of a multi)? I plan on bringing a 60M rope.

 Also whats the lightest rack i can get away with (i have to bring it in carry on while fitting my sleeping gear). Would singles from 0.3-3 with 5 alpines be enough for the grack and swan slabs?

Clint Cummins · · Palo Alto, CA · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,738

Single cams .3 to 2, 8 alpine draws, and 3 wired nuts smaller than .3 would be better.

Grack Center would commit you to mutipitch and rappelling, because the first belay is not bolted.

This time of year you want things that are in the sun, so Grack is not so good.

Swan Slab, Church Bowl, Pat and Jack, base of El Cap are better.

Alex C · · San Francisco · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 5

Jamcrack is a fun short single pitch that allows you to TR two 5.10’s. Most stuff on El Cap base is not easy, but Pine Line is. Swan Slab is probably your best bet for actually easy single pitch otherwise. There’s a few slab climbs you can easily TR on the left side, just need a few cams and ideally a length of static rope for the anchor. 

Justin Park · · NJ · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 30

Thank you! Ill definitely avoid the Grack since my sister isnt familiar with multi pitch (and I dont think she knows how to rappel). Looks like Swan Slab or Church Bowl would be our best options

Justin Park · · NJ · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 30

I was able to fit my 70M and doubles of 0.3-1 (and singles of 2, 3)! Apparently my pack can fit a lot more than I thought haha. Would doing the first pitch of Royal Arches (and lowering my sister from a top managed belay be a reasonable consideration? Also is bishops terrace reasonable with this rack?

Brennan J · · California · Joined Aug 2021 · Points: 15

You could definitely do that on the arches, but be mindful of parties trying to do the full route. The first pitch imo is also meh, I think there’s plenty of better options that will keep you out of the way of other parties on a longer route.

If done as a single pitch, that would be a an ok rack for bishops terrace, but maybe plan on breaking it up into 2 if you want to do it. Be aware it requires 2 raps as well to get off. Without a 4, do the variation that skips the off width unless you don’t mind running it out

Brennan J · · California · Joined Aug 2021 · Points: 15

Alex’s suggestions are spot on for what you’re looking for. Jamcrack is a great option 

Justin Park · · NJ · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 30
Brennan Jwrote:

You could definitely do that on the arches, but be mindful of parties trying to do the full route. The first pitch imo is also meh, I think there’s plenty of better options that will keep you out of the way of other parties on a longer route.

If done as a single pitch, that would be a an ok rack for bishops terrace, but maybe plan on breaking it up into 2 if you want to do it. Be aware it requires 2 raps as well to get off. Without a 4, do the variation that skips the off width unless you don’t mind running it out

Thank you! Yeah if RA has folks on it, we'll just avoid it altogether. Not worth getting in the way of others. And gotcha Bishops Terrace might not be a great option then (more due to the rappelling)

orange pie · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 0

Pat and Jack is a great place for what you want.  Easy access, generally warm and fun, varied climbing.  If you go all the way to the right side of the crag, lots of bolts and cracks with bolted anchors.

Clint Cummins · · Palo Alto, CA · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,738

Royal Arches p1 starts with a pretty hard chimney - too hard for a beginner,

Bishop's Terrace has 5.8 hand jamming, also too hard for a beginner.  Would also want 2 #2 cams for it.

At the base of El Cap, the 4th class starts to the Nose are even easier than Pine Line.  The easiest one starts from the far right and diagonals left.  That's where we took our kids when they were small.

Another sunny area is Manure Pile Buttress.

A problem with Jam Crack is that the first move is fairly hard (a 5.8 thin hand jam).  And it involves hand jamming, which is not ideal for a beginner.

Sunnyside Bench Regular Route is 5.0 and 3 pitches with a somewhat long walkoff to the right.

At Pat and Jack Pinnacle right side are several moderate 5.8 knobs climbs like Makalya's Climb.

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105990405/makaylas-climb

Apologies that I am making assumptions about your sister being a beginner, and how hard she might be able to climb.

At Church Bowl there is a range of grades with Aunt Fannie's Pantry 5.4 being very easy.

Justin Park · · NJ · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 30
Clint Cumminswrote:

Royal Arches p1 starts with a pretty hard chimney - too hard for a beginner,

Bishop's Terrace has 5.8 hand jamming, also too hard for a beginner.  Would also want 2 #2 cams for it.

At the base of El Cap, the 4th class starts to the Nose are even easier than Pine Line.  The easiest one starts from the far right and diagonals left.  That's where we took our kids when they were small.

Another sunny area is Manure Pile Buttress.

A problem with Jam Crack is that the first move is fairly hard (a 5.8 thin hand jam).  And it involves hand jamming, which is not ideal for a beginner.

Sunnyside Bench Regular Route is 5.0 and 3 pitches with a somewhat long walkoff to the right.

At Pat and Jack Pinnacle right side are several moderate 5.8 knobs climbs like Makalya's Climb.

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105990405/makaylas-climb

Apologies that I am making assumptions about your sister being a beginner, and how hard she might be able to climb.

At Church Bowl there is a range of grades with Aunt Fannie's Pantry 5.4 being very easy.

Oh absolutely no apologies needed! I really appreciate the candid advice! She's definitely basically at a beginner level and hasn't climbed for a while so your suggestions are perfect. 

splitclimber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 29

do some easy climbs at swan slab

swan slab gully

oak tree flake to bay tree crack

claude's delight

if you get the newest yosemite guidebook from Sloan you'll see newer easy climbs up and right from the top of the second pitch of swan slab gully

Ivanchenko Vladimir · · Mountain View, CA · Joined May 2018 · Points: 0
Clint Cumminswrote:

Single cams .3 to 2, 8 alpine draws, and 3 wired nuts smaller than .3 would be better.

Grack Center would commit you to mutipitch and rappelling, because the first belay is not bolted.

This time of year you want things that are in the sun, so Grack is not so good.

Swan Slab, Church Bowl, Pat and Jack, base of El Cap are better.

We just enjoyed a few climbs at Swan Slab, especially around Lena lay back. Very easy approach and plenty of protection. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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