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Advice on Trango BETA STICK CLIP EVO Size

Original Post
Sean Cardenas · · San Diego, CA · Joined Apr 2023 · Points: 35

Hey everyone, so as the title suggests, I'm looking for advice on which BETA STICK CLIP is most preferred. I'm leaning more towards the Compact or the Standard...I don't think think I'd get the Ulta, seems like overkill, and the Climb seemes like it might be too flimsy. What's your experience and which one do you think I should buy. Let me know. Thank you. 

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236

Man if you are considering paying that much for a beta stick(they're much cheaper in the uk) I would just try and find a deal on the metolius one. The beta stick is pretty crapy imo, over time it just falls apart and wears out. 

I don't own the metolius stick but I've used someone else's and I thought it was incredible, remarkably simple and robust. 

Patrick Heddins · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 1,100

Weight and price difference isn't that much and you'll never be mad you had too long of a pole. 12' will handle most situations.

Cedric Salvador · · Boise · Joined Mar 2020 · Points: 130

I regularly climbed with the standard and it was okay, definitely more pole than I needed on pretty much any route tho.

In general, I would just advise against buying the Beta sticks. They're flimsy and the system is really only good at placing quickdraws on the wall. Clipping the rope into a quickdraw, removing quickdraws, and everything else is just horrible. 

Would suggest getting something carbon fiber and with the superclip head. I have the OG outdoors stick clip which was cheaper than what you're about to buy and the spire stick clip looks super good (a bit pricier tho).

Adam W · · TX/Nevada · Joined Dec 2019 · Points: 532

Compact and standard are fine I have both.  The ultra is a piece of crap that shouldn't exist.  The first time you use it the pole bends because it is so flimsy and it will be impossible to retract again.  When fully extended the ultra bends over to about half of the total length even if you are just trying to hang a quickdraw without a rope on it.  I returned mine to REI after the first use at which point it was about 9 feet long at the most retracted length I could get it.

Sean Cardenas · · San Diego, CA · Joined Apr 2023 · Points: 35
Adam Wwrote:

Compact and standard are fine I have both.  The ultra is a piece of crap that shouldn't exist.  The first time you use it the pole bends because it is so flimsy and it will be impossible to retract again.  When fully extended the ultra bends over to about half of the total length even if you are just trying to hang a quickdraw without a rope on it.  I returned mine to REI after the first use at which point it was about 9 feet long at the most retracted length I could get it.

So if you could only have one, would you prefer the Standard one over the compact? Or the Compact one over the Standard? I have zero interest in the Ultra or the Climb

Frank Stein · · Picayune, MS · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 205

I have had the compact for three years and the standard for four. I have used and abused both. The poles themselves are fine, and I experienced no durability issues. However, the head itself is atrocious. It will accept only certain types of carabiners, and clipping the rope into draws is fiddly at best, and almost impossible with thinner ropes.

I generally use a 12 foot extendable pole with a Super-clip, and use the standard Beta Stick for travel as it fits nicely into a large duffel. I did run into situations, mainly at Ceuse and other older areas, where it was not quite long enough. I use the Compact only if I need to haul a stick clip with me up a route.

As others have stated above, the Ultra is a poor option when there are other options available that are more rigid. The Climb seems a little silly, as it is only 5 feet long, and when bolts are that close together, you are unlikely to require a stick clip between them anyway.

As for your last question, other than hauling it up a route with you, the Compact would be too short in almost all situations requiring the clipping of a high first bolt.

Sean Cardenas · · San Diego, CA · Joined Apr 2023 · Points: 35
Frank Steinwrote:

I have had the compact for three years and the standard for four. I have used and abused both. The poles themselves are fine, and I experienced no durability issues. However, the head itself is atrocious. It will accept only certain types of carabiners, and clipping the rope into draws is fiddly at best, and almost impossible with thinner ropes.

I generally use a 12 foot extendable pole with a Super-clip, and use the standard Beta Stick for travel as it fits nicely into a large duffel. I did run into situations, mainly at Ceuse and other older areas, where it was not quite long enough. I use the Compact only if I need to haul a stick clip with me up a route.

As others have stated above, the Ultra is a poor option when there are other options available that are more rigid. The Climb seems a little silly, as it is only 5 feet long, and when bolts are that close together, you are unlikely to require a stick clip between them anyway.

As for your last question, other than hauling it up a route with you, the Compact would be too short in almost all situations requiring the clipping of a high first bolt.

Oh sweet man, I appreciate the information. Based off what you've told me, it seems like the Standard would be best suited towards want I need. 

Chris Outings · · Los Angeles · Joined Sep 2022 · Points: 16

I have the standard. Works well (obviously) from the ground and in the few occasions I’ve had to use it to aid climb past a crux while on the wall, it’s good enough. A bit large to manage while hanging from a bolt, but it’s very doable. When done, I just left it hanging from hanger and picked it back up on the descent.

I’d say if generally speaking if you’ll be using it while on the ground, just go with the standard.

If you plan on using this a lot more while in the air, the compact make just make your life a bit easier.  

Sean Cardenas · · San Diego, CA · Joined Apr 2023 · Points: 35
Chris Outingswrote:

I have the standard. Works well (obviously) from the ground and in the few occasions I’ve had to use it to aid climb past a crux while on the wall, it’s good enough. A bit large to manage while hanging from a bolt, but it’s very doable. When done, I just left it hanging from hanger and picked it back up on the descent.

I’d say if generally speaking if you’ll be using it while on the ground, just go with the standard.

If you plan on using this a lot more while in the air, the compact make just make your life a bit easier.  

I ended up getting the Standard. Pretty nice 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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