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Climbing pack suggestions. BD Betalight 45 pack reviews for climbing?

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Esther P · · Mostly CA · Joined May 2016 · Points: 217

Has anyone used the BD Betalight 45 as their main climbing pack? I’m curious how well it holds up to rock abrasion. I’m currently using a black Hyperlite 40L for the approach and a BD Rock Blitz 20 on route. I use a white Hyperlite 55L pack for backpacking. I’m thinking about switching things up—maybe consolidating to one primary pack and then using something more minimal on the climb itself, like a running-vest style pack or a fanny pack. I clip water to my harness and can usually also clip jacket and approach shoes to harness as well depending on the climb.

In the past, I’ve also used an Arc’teryx FL 40 for alpine rock and preferred how it carried compared to the HMG, but it still got pretty cut up on rock. I also have TNF Verto 27, which I actually love, but it's an odd size that doesn't work for typical rock climbing. Mostly good for day hikes or winter things.

Anyone have recommendations for a setup like this or alternatives that have worked well for you? TIA.

Yukon Cornelius · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 0

You'll get a lot of opinions here but IME it depends on the climb. There's never a "best way" that works on every climb. Sometimes the follower climbs with a pack, sometimes no pack is the best. Sometimes hauling a small pack is the way, and sometimes it's a non starter.

I have slowly moved towards not climbing with a pack at all. If I have to bring shoes, water, jacket, snacks, it all goes on my harness, which slightly sucks, but less than climbing with a backpack. But sometimes that doesn't work, for instance on an alpine climb with a long approach and a walk off that doesn't return to the base.

In those cases I like to bring a 20-ish liter pack that doesn't suck to climb with (shout-out ortovox trad zero). I will clip my helmet and some other stuff to the outside to make it work.

Edit: for me, the breakthrough was getting some really small stuff sacks. I have a tiny one that I put a hoodie or wind layer in, and another one that I fill with snacks etc.

One time I wore a fanny pack in the Black and all I had in there was a like a pound of swedish fish lmao

Esther P · · Mostly CA · Joined May 2016 · Points: 217

Thanks. I kind of know what I need for specific climbs, I'm more looking for actual product recommendations. Trying not to have too many backpacks like I currently do. I recently climbed with a fanny pack for Braille book and it was so freeing. It fit my phone and lunch + snacks, but only 1L, so I'd prob want something slightly bigger. Obvs for other climbs a pack might be better, but looking for recommendations for both a lightweight setup and separately reviews of the BD Betalight 45 as a climbing pack (for approaches).

EDIT: forever balancing lightweight with abrasion resistant ENOUGH for rock (ever opposing variables), would love to hear people's real experiences.

Yukon Cornelius · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 0

got it, sorry for misunderstanding! I guess I never use a pack that big unless I'm ice climbing or something.

Colter M · · Everett, WA · Joined Oct 2022 · Points: 0

Check out this thread that I started a month or so ago and is still going (I am in a very similar predicament about getting a pack).

To summarize it: 

- there are amazing options if you have an infinite budget (alpine luddites or Illumination).

- the TUFA Mochilla is amazing and loved and a small small business. Could be a great pack for you certainly check it out.

- if you want bigger than the 30-35L of the Mochilla, you could check out the Cold Cold World Valdez. It is frameless and has some interesting aspects (like the shoulder straps synching to the bottom of the pack rather than on the strap itself). However, they are fairly affordable despite being essentially made to order and they are super bomber with some great features.

- there is also the Tupalik (37+ and 45+ L). This has, like the CCW and Mochilla, an internal roll top that expands the volume and offers storm proofing; but has a bit more space than the Mochilla and a bit more structure than the CCW.

- another great and well loved choice is the HMG Prism. Bomber material, nice features, about 40ish L but extends to 50ish. There is also the Ice Pack which is a simple roll top pack with alpine features that people also really like despite it being a bit less featured and therefore less easy to use. General opinions on HMG are shaky as they are pretty pricey despite exporting production. No one denies that they make great gear though.

- If you want something more backpacking/all around, look at the Kakwa 40 or 55 over the beta light IMO. The thread also contains discussion of other backpacks like that.

Good luck in your backpack search!

Sparkington TheThird · · Kansas City · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 20

I'm a huge fan of the the blue ice backpacks. I've got the Moonlight 35 for large days and the Wadi 22 for sport days and climbing with. Moonlight 35 is the best climbing bag I've owned. I've got the Misty Mountain pack....which is huge and comfortable but I just don't need the space most times. And the BD Creek 35 which has started to degrade and flake, and isn't nearly as well organized and useful as the Blue Ice.

elwood · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 166

The reincarnation of tufa is great.  There 2 packs are cutting edge....  if a pack can be cutting edge?  Like another post stated it depends on your mission. I have a cilo 20 liter pack which is great when climbing cause of size and fit.(down side of cilo is time it takes to get/my experience) if you want a pack that last forever unless you haul all the time with it are runout customs and metolous packs. I have a couple of forrest packs that are vynil and there still in use....but very worn....from late 70s and still helping me .  My metolous have close to a decade plus and are still showing up. My runoutcustom are still newish and I could carry metal waste and not show much wear

Bel Aoros · · Hungary/Italy · Joined Aug 2023 · Points: 0

BD released the speed ultra 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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