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Softest Crag/Area In The United States?

Original Post
Iain Macdonald · · South Bay · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 780

Give it to me straight, who’s pulling on the most ego inflating kid gloves graded rock in the country? 

Connor Dobson · · Louisville, CO · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 269

wherever you climb 

Iain Macdonald · · South Bay · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 780
Connor Dobsonwrote:

wherever you climb 

I knew it 

Nick Goldsmith · · NEK · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 470

I want to know where this place is ;)

Cory N · · Monticello, UT · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 1,168

Every time this comes up Clear Creek Canyon is a contender.

Id also put Indian Creek up there as one of the softest crack climbing areas.

M M · · Maine · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 2

Vegas/St George for the win

Nick Goldsmith · · NEK · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 470

Two of my favorite places :)

Not Not MP Admin · · The OASIS · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 17

All the movement gyms

apogee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 0

Anywhere your mama climbs

Trevor Jones · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2021 · Points: 5

I love it to death, Horseshoe Canyon Ranch. All love to the homies in Arkansas 

Hangdog Hank · · Leavenworth, WA · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 2,184

For bouldering, Moe's Valley is the softest place I've ever climbed. For ropes it would definitely have to be Index. 

Jack Bushway · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 10

Certain crags at Ten Sleep are quite soft, but I reject the blanket statement that Ten Sleep is soft. There are also certain crags there that feel pretty right on.

Ricky Harline · · Angel's Camp, CA · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 147

The softest places I have climbed at have not been entire areas but crags in areas. I think it's rare to have consistent grading everywhere, and some developers grade soft. 

Here in NorCal there aren't too many places with great sport climbing (although this is changing) and some sport crags are graded in line with the trad climbing and historic grades of California, but many are not. Of the ones that are not, some of them are quite noticeably softer. 

I vividly remember leading a 5.9 at Table Scraps Pinnacle (Mt. St. Helena) that felt a couple grades easier than the 5.6 I had led at Pinnacles the weekend prior. 

Hung Ron · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2020 · Points: 36

Clear creek canyon feels extremely soft up until the 5.12c range, where it starts to even out. Most things 5.13c and up feel very on!

Half of Maple Canyon also felt consistently soft, up to 3 letter grades on some. Though crags there like box canyon definitely felt more on-par.

Red rocks definitely had some vacation grades at certain crags, while others felt pretty normal.

Cory B · · Fresno, CA · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 2,593

Ten Sleep 

Hank Caylor · · Livin' in the Junk! · Joined Dec 2003 · Points: 643

It's still pretty much my favorite climbing area, but New River Gorge usually feels fairly soft-ish to me.

Daniel Patrick Smith · · Boise, ID · Joined Apr 2023 · Points: 0

Squammish

Patrick Heddins · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 1,095
Hank Caylorwrote:

It's still pretty much my favorite climbing area, but New River Gorge usually feels fairly soft-ish to me.

Maybe you could say that about Summersville and/or Lower Meadow, but I've never heard someone call Endless wall soft.

Kevin Mokracek · · Burbank · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 378

Any area I'm developing.

sleepy C · · CHARLOTTE · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 0

NRG!  Ha!  Hank you must be strong as hell! Meadow maybe....

Daniel Patrick Smith · · Boise, ID · Joined Apr 2023 · Points: 0
Hangdog Hankwrote:

For ropes it would definitely have to be Index. 

Are you referring to the bolted routes? I feel that  Leavenworth, Squamish, Exit 32/38, Tetons, Buggaboos are all softer than Index for the trad routes at least.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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