Unicore gym ropes

TLDR - any feedback how unicore ropes hold up to gym climbing? In particular, looking at "Beal Wall Cruiser 9.6mm Unicore"

Longer version - used quite a few ropes for climbing in a gym, these are ropes marketed as specifically designed for using and abusing in gyms. Short list - Sterling 9.8mm/Mammut 9.5mm/something else. Over time these ropes develop sheaf/rope bunching up at certain spots, usually right towards the end of lower - most likely due to very similar route length. Flipping the rope does not appear to be of much help. The ropes are in good condition, except for those thicker spots. Can't figure out a way to work the spots out. Previously, I would retire outside ropes to a gym, or use non-gym-marketed ropes for this. They always develop the same thicker spots. 

I tried out a short (50m) wall cruiser specifically for gym use for this exact reason and I'm a big fan. So much so that I've decided to stick with unicore (or other sheath/core bonded rope like the fixe rodellar) for all my ropes from here on, even for outdoors. Mine has been used 3x/week since April with no bunching or sheath slippage at all. Normally my gym ropes would develop bunched spots, cores sticking a little out the ends, and a mushy middle by now, progressively worsening over time.

Rappeling a couple times with an ATC from the middle of the rope up to the ends can put some of the sheath back in place and reduce the swelling (you can do it from the ground too). Top roping pushes the sheath from the ends to the middle when lowering, that's the cause. Make sure the sheath and core are properly bonded on both ends, it helps preventing that issue, but does not solve it entirely. I guess unicore ropes prevent that - no swelling on my Joker and Cobras, but I almost never toprope with them.

Loic Prstwrote:

Rappeling a couple times with an ATC from the middle of the rope up to the ends can put some of the sheath back in place and reduce the swelling (you can do it from the ground too). Top roping pushes the sheath from the ends to the middle when lowering, that's the cause. Make sure the sheath and core are properly bonded on both ends, it helps preventing that issue, but does not solve it entirely. I guess unicore ropes prevent that - no swelling on my Joker and Cobras, but I almost never toprope with them.

Thanks for the idea, I'll try that. I am just looking forward to the gym staff being quite confused ;)

That's what we use for tr's in the gym I work for. They hold up pretty well and I'd recommend them over other ropes that we've tried in the past. Feel free to message me with any other questions.

Slim Chufferwrote:

That's what we use for tr's in the gym I work for. They hold up pretty well and I'd recommend them over other ropes that we've tried in the past. Feel free to message me with any other questions.

What's the feedback for lead climbing?

There is no difference whatsoever between lowering after top roping and lowering after leading. Rope sheath will pull away from the ends either way, given equal usage and lowering distances.

amariuswrote:

What's the feedback for lead climbing?

We use the 10.2 wall school for leading. Works fine, no complaints.

For what it’s worth the mammut gym classic that I owned suffered the worst sheath bunching that I’ve ever seen. I have also climbed on the crag classic 9.5 indoors (several different ones) and the sheath does not get bunched up. 

I've used the Beal Wall Cruiser 9.6mm quite a bit for gym climbing. I bought a 200m spool a while back, chopped it up into 40m sections, sold a few, and I'm now on the second of my two. It definitely holds up better than the Mammut Crag Classic 9.5mm, which I've probably had five or six of. The Beal 9.6 is thinner than that Mammut 9.5, even though the diams would suggest otherwise. I personally don't think the Beal handles as nicely. It's kind of... wiry? Like it keeps a bit of a bent shape when it hangs. I also don't think it slides through a grigri as nicely. That said, it's a totally fine rope; I like how small it packs down and how well it's lasted; because of that I'd go with the Beal over the Mammut if I had to, but I'll probably try something new next time around. 

I have the beal gym 9.6 unicore.

I think it has over 1000 falls, and still chugging. Doesn't even feel flat yet.

edit: i also bought a 200m spool, nice!

Cut one of the ends off, milk the slack cover off the end, cut extra cover off and reseal?

Adam Russellwrote:

I've used the Beal Wall Cruiser 9.6mm quite a bit for gym climbing. I bought a 200m spool a while back, chopped it up into 40m sections, sold a few, and I'm now on the second of my two. It definitely holds up better than the Mammut Crag Classic 9.5mm, which I've probably had five or six of. The Beal 9.6 is thinner than that Mammut 9.5, even though the diams would suggest otherwise. I personally don't think the Beal handles as nicely. It's kind of... wiry? Like it keeps a bit of a bent shape when it hangs. I also don't think it slides through a grigri as nicely. That said, it's a totally fine rope; I like how small it packs down and how well it's lasted; because of that I'd go with the Beal over the Mammut if I had to, but I'll probably try something new next time around. 

I ended up getting Wall Cruiser. I've got to say - your description of hand feel is spot on! - it does feel a bit "wiry" . The sheath definitely feels more attached to the core than either Sterling/Gym or Mammut/Gym, or other ropes that I used. I use Trango Vergo for belaying, I also noticed that handling of the rope feels a bit different.